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The simplest way for me to tell is to look where the ds waterpump boss meets the block. Is the head almost touching, or is there an inch or more of block showing? it is a good reference point for you to see the extra stroke of a 351W.

I'd think the presence of an obd-II port is enough to confirm sefi. Not sure of emissions requirements in your area, just be aware that air injection moved to the cylinder head with the change to batch fire EFI and paired exhaust manifolds.

Or if you are in Cali or Denver

So my '87 comes on at 2,000 hours and '86& below come on every 1,000 hours? The more you know!..... Basically tells you to check the A.I.R. pumps and the Cat (if you have one)

Aka the Implied Mileage Sensor? Basically an engine hour meter that seems to put the light on every 70k or so?

Engineering number. NOT part number..... So the part is an electrical component originally designed for a pickup in the 1985 model year. http://www.fordification.com/tech/partnumbers_overview.htm Does this dash have an "Emiss" light? Does the box have a hole (under a sticker?) that you could stick a paperclip into, to reset it? Is it therefore the Extended Useful Life timer?

Here's a suggestion. When the truck starts acting up, pull over (if it is safe to do so) open the hood and feel the ignition coil. Is it scorching hot? Did you burn yourself, or is it just warm-hot? A coil that is struggling will get hot. (So will one with too much dwell, but we aren't talking points here)

I guess I am confusing the instrument bezel with the fog lamp overlay bezel. Sorry

I don't see any mention of distributor, cap, rotor, or coil. You know, the -ignition system- that those plug wires connect all together.

I mean HIS is definitely OEM. And his numbers fit with yours. So, it's not likely that your bezel is "aftermarket" or in any way 'wrong'

I think using Reamer's measurements you are good. If you move the whole bezel to the left the silver beads (borders?) are going to be crowded. Bad kerning without letters.... Maybe you are better off to compromise and move the slot a little, and the studs a little?????

Very nice! Another piece of the puzzle.

700W is a lot of light! (14V x 50A) With LED's it would be like looking at the surface of the sun.

If it is made in ABS, PLA, or acrylic he would be better off solvent welding them to create a monolithic part than trying to epoxy them together. For that matter, epoxy doesn't usually stick well to Nylon either. Some (like G5 -with proper surface prep-) will hold, but again fusion is a better answer. (ETA) and with Nylon "fusion" would mean using heat.

Press in oil gallery plugs? Do they really hold in front of 70 or more psi of oil pressure?

... and any oil gallery plugs, like the ones on the back face of a 460 block. I'm not sure I would use red. I sure wouldn't want to take a torch to a rod or main cap to get it off. And with the block as a heat sink I don't think there is any other way you're going to get those bolts above 450°F

I think the point I was trying to make is that fusing nylon dust is still joining discreet 'blocks' together.(no matter how small) If you join an edge or corner the whole block is still fused to the main body, even though 1/2 or more might not be within the the desired boundry. So yeah, you have the rows of block.... Then you have to fact that the blocks are just being thrown at random towards the wall you want to build. There is no constraining form to keep them from jutting beyond where you want your wall.

I suggested to Gary a thread about this earlier. We are seeing more use of additive manufacturing almost daily. From the ads GE presents about their turbines to pictures Gary has shared of Tim's manifold to plenum adapters. This popped up in my feed yesterday amid the discussion of the failings of laser sintering WRT the foglamp bezel. Bugatti Chiron brake caliper FEA allowed to run to its extreme (except for the branding obviously) appears so organic. Almost like algae or cobwebs. 3D printed casts have been a thing since 2013. Of note, beyond the amazing 42 hours of running four 400W lasers, and the heat treatment, there is 11 hours of removing the support structure, cleaning threads and bores, peening and polishing required to achieve a product without stress risers that could cause failure. Finished thicknesses from 1 mm (.039) to maximum of 4mm (5/32") There are a lot of cool things that can only be done with additive manufacturing. Geometries that are all but impossible with reductive machining or casting. Some of us made tricky things like a ball in a cube cage in shop class. Imagine making a ball, cube or even Shrodigers cat inside a sealed box! Or a whole set of Matryoshka dolls. Koenigsegg has been sintering variable geometry turbos with captive parts for four years or more. How about showing us some more examples of additive manufacturing applied to production environment?

OK, so Ron's results are better with the jet printer than your experience with SLS. Acrylic will produce a harder and glossier part with better adherence to the file. But again, it *will not* produce a part with the detail and resolution of a die injected molded part. (or even a gravity molded part in a mold pulled from the original) Anything built layer by layer is not going to be the same as something monolithic. What is one difference between a block wall and a poured concrete wall? You can add details to the inside of a form and have good resolution when the forms are stripped. Try that when laying up block. Not to get too far off track in this fog light bezel thread I'm going to make a post in the workshop/tools section. Do we even know what the original is made of? I'm assuming ABS. Really looking forward to seeing the results in acrylic

The acrylic would be a much better material to deal with your problems. Even given its shortcomings in this application..... Interesting to read that Shapeways does this with visible light and then does some post process curing with UV. Looking at the Formlabs printer you can draw some conclusions about what wavelengths affect their resins.

Hmm. I know that the speed control unit that I pulled from the F-450 for you *appeared* to be a simple throttle positioner cable. *My* logic would be that if the ECU 'saw' all inputs as nominal and yet the speed decreased while engine rpms increased as the clutch is depressed it would determine something was amiss. If it had confirmation of a control input it would kick out normally instead of possibly setting a code. But hey... I'm just an idiot

I'm not understanding then. I thought the Brake-On-Off was the switch on the front of the MC that was causing all those fires in the late '90- early '00 models. This would kick the speed control off. If not, then I apologize for interjecting.

Wouldn't you hook BOO to some clutch switch so the engine doesn't rev to maintain speed if you go to shift? I'm sure you could put some microswitch up at the pedal stop, but have no idea if the circuit is NO or NC.

I'd be tempted to just pull a mold off the NOS one and cast them rather than trying to have one created from scratch. 3D printing is great for realizing imagined things. (Prototyping or one offs) But if you have an object *already* and want to make a few more just like it.... The studs on the back are perfect sprues and the cost of those materials is trivial compared to design time, production, shipping, etc.

If you lift up the distributor cap you will see the rotor. The rotor should turn a few degrees if you twist it, and it should snap right back when you let it go. This is the action that allows the timing to advance as the engine rpm's climb. Sometimes the pivot gets gummed up and it will not advance smoothly, or maybe it will not return. It you were accelerating through the gears it might not be as noticeable as accelerating slowly past 50. Or engine vibration at the top of one gear might keep it moving. This is a stretch, but simple enough to rule out.