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Congratulations Dave! You can now say you've had it running in 2017

2 things. 1) It is much easier to cut the pin in the middle of the hinge with a dremel (or die grinder, or whatever) and then pull or lever out the two pieces than try to drive the old pin out from one end. I also find it easier to put the top pin facing up, so the e-clip is where I can see it and not trying to fall off the pin. 2) The hinges bolt into a captive (but loose) nut plate. If the bolt is spinning the nut, you have bigger issues like bent or rotted keepers in the door post. In my '87 you can see the hinge points from inside the cab with the interior stripped out. I don't think you have direct access though. So, either a hole saw or body saw for getting to it. In my case it was a cowl leak that caused all the damage.

Most people would say to use the new carburetors *ported* vacuum connection to operate the DSII distributor advance. Ford did not always do it this way, but many people do, and report good results. (so take the routing diagram as a suggestion and not gospel) Venturi size depends on your engine, driving style, and goals...

That's odd, that the Motorcraft socket didn't fit a replacement part. I was going to ask Gary if his fog light switch had the same blade spacing as a fuse or the clutch safety switch. Because I've used a spare fuse to get my truck started before. Glad you are making progress with your truck. Enjoy the holiday with your family!

Not quite sure how to take that. Was the "something" that worked out Bill getting to use the heater core, or you having a spare when a tire went flat? Or maybe both? Anyway, that was an ugly place to change a tire. I have a small bottle jack in addition to the original screw jack, but usually don't have anything on which to place the jack. Maybe I'd better add some small pieces of ply to the tool box. Gary, it could never hurt to have traction or something to spread the load. I used a 4x4 piece of plywood to jack the truck on and a 4' 2x10 to drive the truck up on in order to make enough room for the jack. I also used a shovel to make some extra room for the full spare tire. Not sure what you would expect on the north rim but support and traction are always important.

Sure, it had to be a big sidewall tear. And it HAD to be one of the new tires I put on in September. And, of course the *only* place to safely pull over is a mud pit. Yay! I'm glad I had some plywood and planks to get it packed up. And I'm thankful that I keep that 1-1/16" impact socket in the glove box...

And you said you had no use for the core...... At least *something* is working out. I got to use my spare tire yesterday.

I agree. The one on the right is very close. Bold is way too much. Not sure what this font is and I'm not going back to look. It would probably be a lot easier to just scan the original. But I know how much you love a challenge Gary.

As do a lot of passenger cars like Lincoln's and Mustangs. Gary, You are going to really like having brakes that work. Speaking of which, I noticed that my parking brake cables were frozen the other morning. I have to address that and adjust those drums soon.

I remember cut and pasting all of my ongoing starter woes from the whydtytt thread after Chris commented about how it was overshadowing all the usual banter. Haven't seen him in a while.... Hope he is doing well.

Your letters need to be more bold. Look at the amount of space inside the G or the P. latest iteration (at bottom of previous page) is too stretched. Stroke width will help a lot in making it look right. And, yes the font is a good match.

Maybe I should move my 460 build over there? Things are progressing very slowly as I find myself over committed and underfunded. But I have taken care of 96% of my holiday shopping and only have a couple more trips to Swarthmore. So i should be back on track about the time winter really sets in.

That's an over simplification, but if you want to geek out with someone who sold commercial art supplies and more Letraset than you can imagine from the age of 10, bring it on... Lol

Point or Pica is height. Kerning is the space*ing* between letters. Fonts can be "extended" (stretched) horizontally. Or, a 'bold' font will usually be longer, not only because the lines are thicker, but because the Kerning will be wider to make it not looked cramped.

Welcome to *this* forum Eli! Sadly, I did nothing to my truck today except put another 100+ miles on it.

Supply is 3/8, return is 5/16.

Do you really think your son is going to pull the gearbox or change a clutch?

I would just use Loctite. When no water or air (anerobic, right?) can get in no corrosion can start.

I'm sure i can get the broken bolts out. Stainless threaded insert will keep rust and aluminum from becoming one.

I've got to say there is one small problem with this transmission that I haven't yet addressed. The two lower bolts from the 'inspection plate' spacer are broken off. I will drill them out and probably Helicoil them. I had forgotten all about it until now. I will find the pan and then get a weight to figure freight costs. Unless one of you know offhand how much this thing weighs. There's also the parking brake that was bolted to it. That unit has a rebuild tag affixed. Need to get some pics. It is very heavy for its size so may have the same issue as Gary's totes and need to be in a bigger box.

I have a 460 Zf-5 s42 4x4 bolted too a skid. With the stick and boots. The pan is idk where... It drove ok and had no issues getting into or staying in reverse. Located in Stamford, CT. I guess this goes against the whole 'in a box, easy to ship' thing, but I need the money...

It's always easier to test and *know* the truth, than search and find some documentation that may (or may not) be accurate. .

Gary, I'm late to the party ( again ) because I didn't ask for notifications. Plastic tanks were for C&C trucks. -narrower frame rails- Metal tanks were for pickups. So now I hope I'm subscribed.

Tell me how they blend it down to 87 octane while adding 10% or so ethanol at 113 Ron? E85 is somewhere between 100-105 octane and if you can take the hit on mileage will really make a lot of power in a properly set up flexfuel vehicle. Premium is hovering just below $3 a gallon here in the NYC metropolitan area. So i would say your $.25 price difference is probably spot on.

Yesterday I had a little issue where the throttle got stuck open (a few times) Given I discerned it was not the cable or the primary side, I pulled the carb this morning and noted a few bright spots on the edge of the secondary butterflies. A sanding roll enlarged the throats of my Trans-Dapt spacer, and the problem hasn't returned. I would also note that my valves start to float somewhere between 5,700-5,900 rpm. It did make for some exciting moments.