ArdWrknTrk

I think the plastic tanks are stock for cab and chassis trucks. If you make a point of saying that, instead of "'86 F-350" you're more likely to find them. Maybe Gary has access to some documentation specific to C&C trucks?

I'm sorry, no I never copied Ryan's pages. irc Chris was part of the discussion of archiving that site before it disappeared. Not sure if you could find those charts on the way back machine. I know I had those URLs bookmarked on my long dead netbook.

Adam, My reply was directed to your first and second sentences of this thread. These trucks are over 30 years old, and you can't expect some kid at O'Reilly who wasn't born yet to have a clue. I only meant to suggest that some place that fixes utility or landscape type trucks every day would know exactly where/what straps to get. Not that you should bring it to the shop *for* repair. Yeah, I've seen tanks held in with ratchet tie downs, even rope. You gotta do what you gotta do to get it working. This is the same reason I suggested looking at a <$10 pigtail (outlined in the TSB) before replacing your alternator for an unknown problem.

None of the 3G alternators were made with V-belt pulleys, so i guess I misunderstood your question. You are asking if the alternator I linked is 8.25" C-C, which fits a V-belt mounting bracket? Yes. The 3.8l Taurus engine uses 8.25" mounting. The 7" center ears do not allow enough adjustment swing to fit the V-belt mounts of the 460 and 300-6 engines of this era The 3.0l Taurus engine uses the smaller 7" mount that fits the serpentine bracket of the Windsor pickup engines As for belt slip with the large body (130A) alternator. I always figured I'd rather have the better cooling diode board, and run it at 75% rated output than run the 90A unit at 100%. Realistically, unless you have a big inverter or a winch you aren't likely to even stress the small body 3G. The alternator will only load the belt as much as is demanded of it. 160, 130, 90, 60, any alternator will require similar power input to create similar power output. The big advantage is that the 130A 3G can put out 65A at idle, where the stock 1 & 2G V-belt alternators need to be spinning much faster, and that is their limit before meltdown.

Merry Christmas Gary! And everyone else here at the Garagemahal. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. This is a great resource and font of knowledge. I'm honored to be a small part of it.

When you hit reply the pop up window has a a ["] button at the top left, or you can manually enter the html tags to bracket the text you wish to quote. The alternator I linked is for a 3.8l Taurus. It comes with a serpentine pulley installed. You would need to swap your current V-belt pulley, as explained in Gary's upgrade tutorial. This is much easier if you have an impact gun.

It may just be the 2G "firewire" charge pigtail that has failed. There are cheap ~$7 kits to replace that. If you have a parts store test any alternator, make SURE they test the diodes and not just the output current. This is the one I'm using. It's been good for some years now. $67 new, delivered to your door, with a one year warranty. I had bought a fused charge cable and the regulator harness from a company (RJM) now out of business, but I see them available on eBay and even from DB itself. You could make your own if you're handy. You're going to need *about* 30" lead to reach a fuse mounting point on the inner fender and another foot long cable to go from fuse to where the battery+ nuts to the starter relay.

Welcome to the forum! Be mindful that a Bronco II is NOT a full sized (U Series) Bronco. Also note that the frame rails of a C&C truck are narrower than a pickup in order to fit the standard dump, box, or whatever.. bed, supplied by after market manufacturers and upfitters I am not sure about a 33gal Bronco tank, but I do know that my 19 gallon rear tank will barely fit between the rails. It would certainly never fit between the rails of a cab and chassis incomplete vehicle. Though I assume your tank is ok and you are only looking for the straps to hold it in. Maybe a truck repair shop would be a better resource than an auto parts store?

That's my picture. The pump shown came from a 1986 E350. (thank you Bill!) in my case, the factory C2 pump bracket was a large aluminum die casting. So the E-series bracket shown is quite different from what came stock on a V-belt 460 for the 1987 model year. You would also need the longer standoff that bolts to the front of the DS cylinder head, and a pressure line from a van because the the nut and swivel are different than C2. I had read on a Bronco site that a pressure line from an earlier 4wd F-250 would fit, but in my case it did not. The Saginaw pulley bore is also larger than the C2 style pump (750" vs .625" iirc) so be sure to get the pulley. Sorry, I have no idea what kind of fitting and shaft were used on a 1976 'pencil necked' pump. Nor do I know if the steering box fitting is the same. I DO know that your steering box differs from mine.

Be glad you have 2wd. At least you can get the pan out with the engine (sort of) in the truck. I'd like to point out the necessity of having the small heat shield in place on the motor mount. Without it the rubber will cook in short order. Be sure to check the seal journal on the crank for scoring before replacing the seal, and lubricate it so it doesn't start dry. If there is pitting, or the old seal has cut a groove, the new seal will fail. There may be a Speedisleeve to repair the crank end.

-A & -B were for '70's trucks which have a different frame. -D is for '85/'86 models with fuel injection (which have a larger bung) -E appears to be for bricknose trucks like mine I went on the Spectra website and looked up the applications after entering each part #.

Yup Various manufacturers. $90-190 Hard to believe this stuff is still widely available in 2018.

I seem to have ignored the E4OD And the fact that he has a column mounted shifter. But I'm willing to bet that someone would be more than glad to swap it for a healthy C6. A T-19 or even a Zf. A manual would necessitate a hydraulic clutch conversion though. Where a C6 only needs a vacuum source and a kickdown. Does B&M or Lokar still make a floor shifter for C6?

A carb adapter from Price Motorsports (CA-460EFI) is $125 An HEI style 429/460 ignition can be had for as low as $50 on eBay from Skip White. A Bosch style relay to feed that distributor. Beyond that you'd need an electric fuel pump (or earlier 460 timing case with provision for a mechanical one) Some kind of aircleaner for the retrofitted carb. I think you will need to swap the radiator and cobble together a 3" exhaust system from the existing headpipes that fits under your pickup. It's not impossible or too daunting if you are willing to use off the shelf aftermarket parts. If you want factory efi..... not so easy.

I'm really interested in this, and wonder if the wax pellet inside a VCV can go bad or leak. I do understand that the one controlling the EGR would shift ports at OT but was under the impression that the one for the distributor didn't move until ~250-F. Sorry I can't offer more specific advice for your 1986 California model. I do hope you can get this into compliance with the emissions inspection there.

There are very good instructions available on the Jegs website. If you search there for the Comp Cams adjustable advance unit for Ford/Mercury you'll see a PDF link that goes through all the steps in correct order. Also, Bill (85LeBaron2t) owned and ran a carburetor/tune-up shop for years. He is very detailed in his replies.

You always need to reset the throttle stop after reattaching the vacuum line. With this system you will see quite a bit of advance at idle. This is an emissions engine and with more advance there is more time for fuel to burn before the exhaust valve opens. The VCV should apply restricted vacuum to the advance can unless the truck starts overheating. At that point full manifold vacuum is applied, which increases idle speed -making the water pump and fan turn faster- to help cool the engine.

If you just rebuilt the carb I'd assume you replaced the PV. The PV is leaking if the truck is pig rich at idle and pops on trailing throttle. Seems like you have a vacuum leak. Check any lines and caps on the vacuum 'tree' where the brake booster attaches towards the rear of the intake manifold on the driver's side. You can try spraying some carb cleaner or other hydrocarbon around the egr plate and intake manifold to see if the idle goes down. That will point you in the direction.

I bought the window because the eBay seller offered it for around $110-120 with free shipping. LMC can kill you on shipping, and at first I thought I had the correct gasket. I think I shared this lesson on FTE but it's been a few years since I had to deal with it.

ArdWrknTrk... flange extensions? By your description, looks like we used the same replacement window but mine didn't come with such extensions... would have been a nice problem solver! ... you didn't have to order them separately? You used the LMC 49-9279 gasket? Your window didn't have some black plastic ears on the tight radius of the corners when you took it out of the box? I bought my window from a place in Texas through eBay. I'm not sure of the model number or if my dark tinted replacement slider is exactly the same as offered by LMC. Once I realized the gasket for the factory slider wouldn't work, and CRL explained they don't offer a window that fits it, I turned to LMC. That is when their "tech" told me to get the one piece gasket.... That ALSO didn't fit. Ultimately, I purchased another gasket (with "chrome" trim and cover clips.) This combo finally got the CRL slider to seal in my truck. Old fashioned smooth GoJo or personal lubricant and a radiused tool helps a lot trying to get that trim seated in the groove without digging or scratching. I think I used a yellow plastic one intended for prying off interior trim. HTH

Factory sliders have a gasket that fits the double track of a factory slider. C R Laurence sell a 'universal' slider, and their track fits within the opening of the gasket and has a thin flange that fits a factory single pane gasket. C.R.L's window also comes with some plastic flange 'extensions' on the corners that are needed to fill out the gasket. I had to use the LMC *single pane* gasket -with chrome locking strip- to get my replacement slider to seal in my truck. It was a huge pita to sort this out and I'm sorry to hear you have to go through all this as well

Gary, I don't know the details of the boosters, just that the bores of the master cylinder are different. 15/16" v 1 1/8" I think??? The mechanics of fluid displacement in a closed hydraulic system are simple ratios. TIL that the pedals have a different pivot (changing the effort applied to the M/C by the operator) Prior I only knew of this difference with the Hydroboost pedal. If Ford changed the bolt pattern and the line fittings of the master it was to prevent the wrong one from being installed and likely causing injury.

IIRC the 150 M/C has smaller bore than the 250/350 master. Increasing the bore displaces more fluid per pedal stroke but also increases the pedal effort for a given line pressure. Bigger trucks have larger caliper pistons that need more fluid volume and achieve a correct ratio with the bigger master cylinder.

And this is why I suggested looking at the aftermarket catalog that supplies OEM style fuel lines. FWIW, should probably just change all the lines you have access to at this time. The parts are cheap. Rounding up the tools and making time to get in there is the hurdle.

I'm used to 3/8" supply and 5/16" return. This my not be the case with your older 302, but I think if you examine the Dorman replacement hoses applicable to your specific truck that is what you will find.