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Looks like the donor truck has a 300/6. And good point on the flywheel interchange. If the 302 in his 86 is the original, it will require a 50oz 164 tooth flywheel to use with the manual trans from the '84. Can't use the 300/6 flywheel for the manual swap to the 302. Other than that, he should have everything he needs between the two trucks. I kinda 'assumed' the donor to have a 300 from the second post, but I've made the mistake before. Do you know if the 300 starter is the same as the Windsors? I know the bell is the same, but I know nothing about ring gear diameter or number of teeth.

What engine is in the donor? The bellhousing patterns are the same. You will need to disassemble the dash to change the pedal support, and drill the firewall for the master cylinder to pass through. You might want to swap out the automatic style steering column while it is out for the pedals. Auto/manual starters do NOT interchange. Flywheel to replace flexplate. Afaik 300, 302 & 351 all have different balance in this era.

Motor windings can overheat quickly if they don't have enough available power. Once the insulation cooks they are done for. You've probably fixed the cause by changing the cable, but the symptom remains. Do you think the low battery was due to excessive cranking? Is the truck charging properly?

Glad to hear the pieces are coming together William! Be sure to post some pics of the install.

I think it looks great Gary! Amazing, the amount of time and care you put into this. Do you have plastic lined sockets or something? I'd like to know how many pounds of powder you go through when you're finally finished.

I think PMGR's came in '92. I do know the spade terminal used to trigger them is prone to corrosion. I took it off the stud and used a ring terminal instead.

By "rapidly", I meant "seconds after turning the key to RUN the first time". If it lasts beyond that, it should last until there's a fault in the circuit that threatens the wiring. If that happens in traffic, it's still preventing fire in the harness. Yes, I think that could seriously hurt the rest of the harness. And it's unnecessary. You don't size a fuse for the strongest component in the circuit; you size it to be the weakest link in the chain. I'm thinking the weakest link in the chain is going to be the unified ignition. DUI probably has a suggested fuse, at least they say to run a 12Ga wire. Maybe they say what their ignition draws. (not going to look it up on my phone) Either way the fuse should probably be a slow blow type rated a bit above what the ignition uses. Engine heat and small amounts of oxidation can cause resistance to go up in that new circuit.

Yeah, I don't know how much I like the idea of losing my ignition while out on public roads... Bad enough when my DSII box decides to crap out. If none of the rest of the harness is going to get hurt, I'm going to fuse it for the rating of the relay (30/40A)

I would think the "relay coil" would be the pull in electromagnet... #85.

12Ga @ 20A is NEC for solid copper wire in a wall. It is derated quite a bit. There are tables online showing ratings for stranded copper in a wiring harness. Yes, it's probably 30A or more.

Gary prefers ported. For good reasons, especially **for someone that has** an automatic. Ford used restricted manifold vacuum with the stock DSII systems **Edit**

I don't know S-901C but you've done a great job securing those parts for shipping.

I can remember working the graveyard shift back in the '70's. Then leaving to get to high school. It's tough if it is not your regular routine. Vacuum advance allows you to factor throttle position and engine load on top of simple centrifugal advance that is determined by engine rpm, weights and springs. It allows for more advance at lower rpm while being able to control knock. If your new carb is a Holley clone it should have ports for both timed (ported) vacuum and manifold vacuum. Gary has already graciously offered to draw it all up

Follow the white/l blue wire back in the first schematic. You'll see it's hot in run and in start (through the resistor) I don't know why you wouldn't want vacuum advance. Dynamic timing seems a lot better for power and economy, at least in my experience.

I sure do Gary. Happy Boxing Day! Bills parts look great! You obviously understand the first rule of packing. Keep everything fastened down tight so it can't begin to move, lest it batter itself or its surroundings.

It's good that the EVTM shows how the red and white wires swap at the 321 Duraspark connector. I know that this is overlooked elsewhere. Thank you for putting in all the effort to document this Gary.

Thank you for reminding me about that great spacer drawing you shared. That had slipped my mind, as well as the issues fitting a manual gearbox behind the 335 series engines.

M starter is the same as 429/460. ... at least the bell is. I'm wondering how this all began. Did the old starter crap out, and every new one doesn't work? Did the old one start slipping and now the replacements do too? It's always a challenge to diagnose something over the internet.

Do we know if the truck is automatic or manual? And the starters purchased are correct for the application? Aren't Windsor's the same as Lima's in that there are different throwouts? If the truck is as good as it looks I hope Brandon can find the time to pick it up for his son in law.

Ok, I see now where Frank says it's just spinning. 1986 so it definitely isn't a 351M, Gary. You'd think starter issues would be pretty simple. I know from experience how frustrating it can be grasping at straws.

I'm kind of surprised. Bruno says he doubts the engine's ever been out, yet the owner says the starter needs to be "repositioned" after three days use. The starter *should* pilot in the spacer plate. To get the plate off you would need to remove the flywheel/flexplate from the crank first. And without the spacer the starter would need to be shimmed for depth. Does it grind and not turn over? Does it just spin freely? I wonder how the bushing in the nose of the starter is faring after 3 days? Mine would get destroyed because of the teeth camming out.

Honda makes a electrical harness tape (4019-2317 ~$36) that is infused with capsaicin. Be very careful to wear gloves and warn anyone who works on your vehicle not to touch their face or other exposed skin.

I think it's the Carolina Reaper, Trinidad Scorpion or Indian Ghost Pepper, but yeah. I did come across a news clip from Atlanta saying how much damage is being done to vehicles so I guess it isn't just a northern problem.

I tend to think of convolute as just being for electrical wiring, but you're probably right that it's the way to go here as well. Have you considered some hot pepper sauce or other capsaicin product to discourage them? A quick search revealed a bunch of products including infused sleeving like this one https://www.zippertubing.com/products/wire-and-cable-bundling/lightweight-jacketing/hook-it-rp Have a close look to see if the line looks chewed on. Maybe dust something like baby powder on top of the tank to show tiny mouse tracks. I know that has helped me track down their means on ingress in houses before.

Rodents love to chew on plastic and rubber. Up here, as the weather gets wetter and colder they seek a spot out of the wind and up off the ground. I would say that IS the likely cause. If the fuel line had rubbed through you would see evidence of abrasion and probably some rust or other discoloration. Look at how the reinforcement strands are clean and frayed, hanging out.