ArdWrknTrk

After reading SORD's Superduty RSK instructions it states the use of stock rear spring mounts will result in a 3" lift over stock F-350 (but with bad shackle geometry) and using their low profile brackets you get the standard 2" RSK lift with much improved shackle angle. There are side by side pictures for the two in their instructions. Hope this helps.

To the best of my knowledge (and I am not expert) a D60 swap with 350 springs will net you about 2" over a stock F-250 TTB. The RSK will gain another *correction 2-2 1/2"* depending on how the rear shackle mounts are attached. When I was looking into it I saw that Sky had two templates to drill the mounts, giving this range of lift. I really don't know where Superduty springs would put you because I've never driven one, but have a look around their website. The documentation and instructions are there for the '85-'91 kits for OBS and Superduty springs

A leaf spring front end with RSK and super duty springs is supposed to be pretty plush. I've driven a few F-350's with RSK and they are already light years ahead of the ride and turn radius of my truck. Super duty springs are longer, so it makes a difference where you attach the shackles to the frame.

Bolt on calipers v/s the older style pins with a rubber core to retain them. My preference would be kingpins because ball joints are such a pain to change out. But, to each his own. Ask Bill which he prefers, since he has kingpins (albeit 2wd)

. It's really a shame when bad things happen to good people. Saddens me to hear he was taken advantage of like that.

Scott Johnston'shttp://reincarnation-automotive.com/ site Reincarnation High Performance has all the incarnations of deck height and chamber volume. The 460 Ford forum is a wealth of information too. You say Vernon was meticulous about documentation. Surely there is information on engine internals???

Certainly if Vern had the block decked or had taller pistons installed that possibility exists

I was only pointing out that efi heads have different angles and (I think) larger valves. Check with Bill because I don't know for sure.

Oh, by the way... Be aware that carb and efi 460's use different pistons. So the straight up short block swap should be looked into. The lower compression height or deeper pockets of a carbureted engine might not be optimal. It's only a couple of points iirc, but the valve angles are off. As Bill has recently built an efi engine for Darth I'd think he would be the go to for that information.

I didn't realize that Big Blue's engine was in such bad shape. I'd thought that Vernon had put a lot of thought and work into it, but I note your comment to Shaun that there are only hack mechanics in FL. Wheeler dealer! If you do find a donor F-350 I'm sure there will be other bits you can sell to lessen the hit or turn a profit. You have an great reputation among the community. I don't know anyone who would hesitate buying parts from you.

Brandon, I have pictures of the C2 bung removed and side by side with a Saginaw bung over on FTE. What is a 'later hose'? Are you adapting something from an OBS to a Bullnose? A little more context would help answer the question.

Why do you say Big Blues engine is "sieve like"? Is it just the oil pan gasket, or is everything leaking? If tightened up with a couple of seals and a set of tin gaskets you could probably offset the cost of a cross member and D60 by selling it and the L&L's that won't fit the efi heads anyhow.

Gary, on an android device while in the YouTube app and viewing a video there is an option to 'share' (arc shaped arrow) within that is the option 'save link' which then gives you the character string that Ray and I have tried to 'embed' using the button supplied by Nabble. We are not presented with the embed option you show while on YouTube. Must be a Alphabet/Google thing as they own both Android and YouTube.

Which is why I suggested Gary find a bricknose that had a blown engine or been hit in the rear, or rolled. I suppose aeronose or OBS will work as well as long as it has a 3.55 R&P. Either way, cheaper than a $1250 cross member or a $1500 D60 that needs rebuilt. While Gary has reservations, and an awful lot of other work swapping in all the Huck parts and F-450 bits. To replace the cross member you have to remove the engine and drop the beams, anyhow. Then to get the donor part you'd have to remove the panhard bar and swap the TTB pivots over.... anyhow. When you have the cross member out you're already standing where the engine was, looking at the shackles and spring mounts.... anyhow I'm of the mind 'in for a penny in for a pound' It would never be easier to weld in a Sky RSK. In fact it would be a pita to do it while laying underneath and trying to work around an engine. I guess a lot depends on whether Gary can find a 460/IDI cross member by itself, and how much it costs. Or if Gary finds a donor 350 wreck with the right R&P.

AhhhSo you have to indicate message is in html and then use the embed button in the toolbar to post the link given by YouTube?I'm getting closer to figuring out this nabble thingie.

Jim - Sorry, I missed this. Yes, the nozzle did mix it nicely. And I was told to run 2" of stuff out before installing the nozzle. What it didn't say is that you'd better have a strong grip. I now understand why there is a pneumatic applicator. I broke out in a sweat getting the adhesive in place. As for the hand cleaner, I may give it a try. I have been using Permatex's Grease Grabber, and even bought the dispenser. But the only way it works well is to get a gob of it in the palm of your hand and add a squirt of Dawn. That combo works pretty well. But, for the price I'm not impressed. Thanks, David. I really wanted to document this as I went 'cause I suspect someone else is going to want to put an E4OD in their 4wd Bullnose and I thought they should know one way to solve the floor problem. Gary, The handcleaner was an afterthought when you mentioned how messy the the panel bond might be. While i'll use Fast Orange w/ pumice or regular Goop for grease, in my work when I get caulk, paint or most glues on my hands that little tube in my truck is very convenient. Of course nothing on the planet will remove polyurethane glues like Gorilla glue or PL Premium construction adhesive. The pneumatic gun is almost twice as expensive as the manual one and doesn't work at all if you don't have a convenient source of air. So, there IS that... When you mention John doesn't have a need for fancy tools, if he is using panel bond on any visible parts he's surely using a punch and flange tool already. I was suggesting that the punch die could incorporate a countersink. Automagically providing proper film thickness and making it almost impossible to squeeze it too much. Hmmm, maybe this is my next million dollar idea. (no chin scratching or light bulb emoticon) Anyway, it looks great and I'm sure you're glad to get past this last hurdle on your way to mating cab and chassis. Congratulations!

Good to me. I'd imagine someone who does this for a living would have an air tool that punches the hole and creates a dimple at the same time, leaving the proper film thickness of bonder.

In my VERY limited experience, driving with a front locker is like wrestling a bear while trying to drive your truck. As for rake. The D60 with stock 350 springs will raise the front ~2", an RSK will raise that another 2, and then you can change the springs for more if you want. But at that point you'll be looking for a drop pitman arm and longer panhard or track bar.

I don't think my brother ever had coolant leaks but maybe rain effected it. I replaced it three times and I remember it being a pita. What Pete's doing sounds sacrilegious to me. But I suppose that he has hundreds of vehicles to dismantle. So why not give the '67 a heart transplant? Thanks to both of you for my Saginaw conversion!

I always thought that a decent ride with a leaf spring TTB was impossible when I had my '85 F-250. But now with my '97 I really don't think it's that terrible. It could certainly be better, but before I got this truck I was sure I'd be swapping to a solid axle if I got another F-250 (I was more looking for an F-350, just to avoid the TTB). I don't know why my '97 is better than my '85 was. There are certainly some differences in the trucks ('85 was a RCLB with 351 and 4 speed, '97 is a CCSB with 460 and E4OD, longer wheelbase and more weight certainly smooth some rough edges). And I've decided that I like the lower ride height of the TTB, so I'm sticking with it now. Swapping a solid Dana 60 is a piece of cake. Get springs, track bar and axle from a '86 - '97 F-350, take out the F-250 stuff and bolt in the F-350 stuff. At least some of the steering linkage probably also needs to be swapped over. And F-350s had a double Cardan joint at the transfer case end of the front driveshaft. So either get the right yoke for your 'case, or get a 'case from an F-350 and run the F-350 driveshaft. Or else run the single Cardan joint from the F-250, but you might need to change the length of the 'shaft. Some people say they get a vibration running the single Cardan with a solid Dana 60, but a lot seem to say it works fine. Then as ArdWrknTrk says, you'll need to lift the rear a couple of inches to level it out. Or for an even better ride (and another few inches of lift) you can also reverse the shackles. And for a better ride yet go with SuperDuty springs (I forget which code specifically). It's all just incremental changes (read "scope creep"). Gary is renowned for his scope creep (and he has the epic threads to back it up) If a cross member alone is $1250, why not get a truck to go with it and still have close to $1000 for gas?

The labyrinth (?) nozzle should do all the mixing for you. Instructions should say to discard the first x inches of bead to ensure proper mixing/ratio. Or something like that.... So glad to see you getting closer and closer to your ideal interpretation of Dad's Truck! Progress is good. ETA, this is good hand cleaner. Be sure to get the Special Ultra. It smells like green apples.

And that is why I didn't say the idea was unsound, just the implementation. I see over engineering in the building trades all the time. I'll look at a print and ask myself 'Why spec something so complex, costly and labor intensive, with multiple modes of failure when there is a simple, foolproof solution.' And often it is to cya on some irrational scenario while there are already a dozen weaker links in the chain.

The early '90's LT engines had a flat looking distributor with a optical pickup rather that Hall Effect, points, whatever... These things went bad often. In mysterious ways. Well, until it became common knowledge that Optispark was a bad implementaion. My younger brother had a '93 Camaro. It was a thorn in my side until he got rid of it.

Huck would have been good for both the floor and cross member, as Bill said. Brownie was... what? A stunning example of a well cared for and unmolested classic? I think pretty much any 4x4 F-350 of this vintage has the D60. And for sure they all have the 460/IDI cross member.*Edit, there were some with the I-6* I'm no "expert" though. Jonathan is probably much better informed than I.

Maybe you should put some feelers out for a 4x4 350 with a blown engine or a rear hit. I'm sure with all your social media contacts something will turn up for the scrap weight price. Janey's used to you dragging home the most forlorn mongrels by now!?!?! Tell her you need it for the cross member and remind her how dangerous it would be to have Big Blue drop all its steering and suspension out on the trail. Scavenge what you need, part or crush the rest. You'd have the cross member to go forward, and can do the rest later.