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I checked your link. At that price and from what I see they aren't rebuildable, but look like a good choice for your project.

Three cylinder engines. I'm assuming you have efi manifolds? Yes, without the crossover the exhaust note is odd and very different. And they howl when wound up. Some of the newer (Hinkley) generation Triumph motorcycles are a good example of this. You can find sound clips on YouTube

Try running true duals. Triples have an odd cadence. Used to have a '65 Dodge powerwagon mason dump with the 6. I know exactly the sound you describe.

I'm still rocking the original 40amp 1G as well...and it's all my trucks needs...and it never gets driven anyway...lol, but I will switch up to the 3G when an alternator is required. Painless offers a harness for this swap don't they? https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30831 Finding a decent usable harness in a junkyard here is a real stretch....finding anything usable in a junkyard here is a real stretch. That's a lot of $ for what is **changed links and prices** worth of components (new, at retail) and I don't like their fuse holder. The lugs should be soldered, or at least dipped in NoAlox before using a real battery cable crimper. Or buy a made cable, as below. But to each their own. I've made this argument wrt their DSII conversion harness. And that at the time had a fatal flaw in how it was assembled. ETA: Bussmann HMEG fuse holder $6.99 Littlefuse 175A mega. $4.85 3G pigtail #PT-754. $7.95 A/C compressor connector. $6.99. (this goes to 'S' on the 3G) 12" 4Ga. Lug cable. $6.69 32" 4Ga. Lug cable. $9.50 Plus a ring terminal to connect yellow to the output lug on the 3G.

But, their tab on Ford 85-97 Sizing says: I think from what's been said that I'll have less than 2" of lift - over a '95 F350's height. Is that correct? If so then I'd need the 10" shock. But, I want Sky to tell me, so I sent them this: Spring washer stack valving means the compression damping is speed sensitive, and will absorb harsh hits easier. Independent compression and rebound adjustments are great for fine tuning the shock. This varies the total orifice size available to each direction of piston travel. IDK if their Bilsteins are rebuildable, but if they are you can tune the shock by varying the thickness or number of washers of each diameter. You can also swap the orifice disc those washers cover for one with different profile holes and area. **Like a reed valve where you could change the ports in the cage, change the thickness of the reeds, or stack progressively smaller reeds to offer a soft initial opening.** Of course then you need nitrogen to recharge the shock, because it doesn't oxidize the fluid and due to gas law offers progressive resistance as the shock bottoms. The shock is under pressure to keep the hydraulic fluid from frothing and boiling as it gets forced through the damping orifices. This causes cavitation and heat. In this way nitrogen pressure is analogous to a radiator pressure cap. Yes, given what we've found I would say the 10" stroke shock is what you'll need. **sorry, my inner geek got away with me. LOL **

I will absolutely share with the forum WHYDTYTT when I go to install it in my truck. Thinking back, I do recall being unable to depress the pedal while driving one day last week. That must have been when it broke off. Hopefully it was just crap plastic and not the piston stuck in the bore. I did have to do some shadetree honing when I rebuilt that carb.

I can't say for sure, but one is "Diesel_Brad" from the FTE forum. While I don't think he does any "overlanding", he certainly uses his trucks like trucks. And I'm not so sure that the two are that different anyway. While a lot of people use to go overlanding in buckboards, that doesn't mean that modern overlanders should aspire to have vehicles that ride like buckboards. Yes, the suspension needs to be capable of carrying the weight, but it really shouldn't have a huge safety margin on weight capacity because that leads to a harsh ride, which is hard on vehicle and passengers. And for front springs especially, the extra gear for long-term camping isn't really a factor since that's almost all on the rear axle anyway. So it's just a question of whether the front springs can handle the empty weight of the truck. Which in Big Blue's case isn't insignificant... See above, but no, I don't know specifically what everyone was running (although I'm sure Diesel_Brad had at least a 460 if not a 7.3L PowerStroke). As far as whether it's better to err on the light or heavy side, that's up to you. I think I'd lean toward the light side for the (not overwhelming) reasons I've already given. But that doesn't mean that's the right choice for you. But do keep in mind (as Jim already pointed out) that you DON'T want to match the TTB spring rate. As already discussed, the solid axle springs will seem much stiffer than the TTB springs due to suspension geometry. So compare to other solid axle vehicles. I don't think anyone wants a buckboard ride. But keep in mind that the f-350 front end is miles better in compliance than the 250 and doesn't bottom harshly. Then add the RSK. Then the superduty springs. Even grossly oversprung it would be more compliant than a 250. Which also brings to mind the consideration of damping rates to match load and spring rate Compression and rebound are important and you might be best to talk to Billy about your intended use and the front weight of this truck. I know enough about this in motorcycles but don't really have enough background with trucks off-road to make any kind of recommendations.

Thank you for that Gary! I now know what to look for, and will get on with sourcing a metal acc pump.

Keep in mind that spring rate and spring capacity are two entirely different things. One is how much it takes to deflect the spring X distance, and that can be progressive as well. The other is how much the spring will be carrying at its design deflection.

Gary has all the master manuals to determine what the tow capacity would be with different transmissions, gear ratios, tire load ratings, brake options, etc.. Keep in mind though that that is all tied to your VIN, and while you could upgrade every component you'd still be registered (and insured) according to the door tag. That might not be a big concern to you unless your DOT has weigh stations set up. And then that trailer is not going anywhere until you show up with a truck rated for it. Plus a hefty fine. I'm not trying to be a killjoy or a hall monitor, I just want you to know the path you are about to venture down.

Consider also the braking situation if looking to improve tow capacity. Don't F-100's come with both power and non-power assisted brakes? In the rear I don't know if the old 9" axles came with different width brake shoes. I know the 10.25 in my truck certainly does. If bigger shoes are available it might be a better proposition to swap the whole axle than to buy a new R&P and have it set up. Welcome to the forum btw!

Not to doubt, but are these people who want a plush ride on road? Or, are these people who are going on serious overlanding adventure. Because I don't think the two are the same.

An added thought is to your reuse of U-bolts. Is the 2 spring pack the same thickness as existing in the 350 clip? Not that I'd let a set of U-bolts stop me from getting the ride I wanted.

Comprable in what way??? I'd go V code on a stock truck And maybe X code on BB with the added weight. You're not looking to go back to the overly stiff 250 style spring, so forget what the door sticker says.

2 leaf pack is code U with a 2030# capacity. Given the winch bumper, 2nd battery, etc.. you may want something stiffer. JMHO Edit: there's also code-X @ 2630# capacity and a HD spring @ 3950#

One of my concerns in this is that the SD springs I got are from an '06. But Sky's site says that their kit "Adapts the much better riding 99-04 Superduty Springs". And in another spot it says "Springs: 56" 99-04 Superduty Front Springs". So I'm concerned that maybe I have the wrong springs. I'll see what they say about things, inc the springs. But, I'll also measure the springs I got to see how long they are compared to that 56" spec. As for the track bar, I can easily see the need for a longer one - if the height changes so will the diagonal. And I agree that I want bushings and not heim joints given what I'm doing with the truck. I could make the one I have adjustable by cutting it and installing a large threaded rod. But I think I'd rather buy in a ready-made one. And to align it, they suggest using plumb bobs, which I'll do. But I would think that lifting the truck with the lift, w/o the track bar installed, and then setting it down would give a good starting point. Yes? On the LoPro question, I really don't know and could sure use some help there. In poking around on their site I found the document below, which I haven't been able to get my head around yet. And, their heretofore email responses have been less than helpful, so I'm confused. I just went to the ATS website to see what they showed.Their '99-'04 V code spring #43-814 is described as being 3 leaf, 3" wide and totals 56 5/8" long with a 18mm bolt in the front and 16 mm in the rear.2230# capacityDoes that match the springs you have?I don't see any data for later front Superduty springs.

One of my concerns in this is that the SD springs I got are from an '06. But Sky's site says that their kit "Adapts the much better riding 99-04 Superduty Springs". And in another spot it says "Springs: 56" 99-04 Superduty Front Springs". So I'm concerned that maybe I have the wrong springs. I'll see what they say about things, inc the springs. But, I'll also measure the springs I got to see how long they are compared to that 56" spec. As for the track bar, I can easily see the need for a longer one - if the height changes so will the diagonal. And I agree that I want bushings and not heim joints given what I'm doing with the truck. I could make the one I have adjustable by cutting it and installing a large threaded rod. But I think I'd rather buy in a ready-made one. And to align it, they suggest using plumb bobs, which I'll do. But I would think that lifting the truck with the lift, w/o the track bar installed, and then setting it down would give a good starting point. Yes? On the LoPro question, I really don't know and could sure use some help there. In poking around on their site I found the document below, which I haven't been able to get my head around yet. And, their heretofore email responses have been less than helpful, so I'm confused. The PDF doesn't seem confusing.You have an '85-'97 4wd which will be a stock F-350 once the D60 is installed.For the spring reversal with Superduty springs you will need 10" shocks and a longer panhard bar.MAYBE longer brake hoses since you are going 250->350->SD RSKHopefully Erik will have an intelligent response to your inquiry.

Does the -003 kit include the LoPro rear spring mounts? I never really looked into their SD spring kit.

There are certainly other brands of RSK. I focus on them because their kits seem well thought out and cleanly fabricated, complete-with all the fasteners, and are respected in the community. You don't hear griping about fit or quality. As for what length Panhard bar you'll need, I can only say ask them, while making it known that you will be using used SD springs. Otherwise install and measure. It wouldn't be hard for you to fabricate or modify one. I would probably go with bushings. This truck is going overlanding, not in the Baja 1000.

I've been subscribed since I first saw the thread Big Blue's Transformation. And I see you have updated your sig in anticipation of having all those boxes checked.

Envious that the whole thing hasn't been eaten up by rust. I don't really ever feel envy or jealousy towards others for what they have (or don't have) No point in that.

Bill - Just so Jim understands, you said it correctly: The AVS was an alternative to a Holley. And it was the Holley that made the 4180 look excellent. Jim - As Bill knows, my first Super Bee had that Holley. I'd been raised on Carters and Rochesters, and that Holley was an absolute piece of JUNK! The gaskets leaked and it wasn't the secondary but the primary metering block on mine that warped. As did the main body. I still think of that carb when the word "Holley" is used. But the AVS was/is a good carb. It was an improvement on the AFB, but inherited all of the good traits of it and added some good features, like the adjustable air valve. I can get the model number of the one on my current Bee tomorrow as I have the factory manual and I know it tells. But it might also have the accelerator pump dimensions. I'll see what I can find. Thank you Gary. Confirmation of the pump diameter would end some of the confusion on my part.

Sorry. I guess I misunderstood Well, I have to get to ordering that eBay pump then

So, perhaps a poor choice on my part. When I first considered replacing my 80457S Gary kinda sold me on Edelbrock, though I never had problems with any leaks and only had the pump diaphragm fail once on the 4180.

It is a little disappointing that it completely failed in only a couple of years. And it has been frustrating that I have to bump the truck or give it a shot of ether when it is stone cold. Now I know, and thanks to Bill I know there is a better part available than genuine Edelbrock. One of the things I've been seeing in my search is that there have been different diameters of pistons. Maybe I should be looking for one specific to this generation AVS?