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You da man. Looks like is the one I'd want? Now that I have a spare tailgate to play with, it's tempting to try my hand at automotive painting. Speaking of which, didn't get the heat barrier down tonight; I forgot that Dominic and I had a scheduled viewing of Battlebots...it's robot fighting time! Check back on Tuesday. Um... lol A link to a transformers video???? Speedball is a common brand of both block and screen printing supplies. Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Speedball-Deluxe-Soft-Rubber-Brayer/dp/B003IFY622

I think with all that work you could use the duel fenders and get the 4 1/2" flare or more and I don't think you would need the rise and you would had the right opening shape. Dave ---- I'd agree with that but I don't think the dually flare is going to come close to fitting between the wheel opening and the corner by the bumper. And you would have to glass it to sheet metal, which is never a real good bond. If Alex is wanting a fully fiberglass 'pre runner' style fender with the crease around the opening like a bullnose he is in for some work no matter what. Maybe he wants the rise? IDK exactly what he's going for *** but that's what he said above *** My being brought up around boatyards and loving working with epoxy composites makes it seem like an adventure rather than a chore.

I don't think I've ever seen U-code springs installed unless they were in an Excursion. , No idea what kind of clearance you will have in a Bullnose with the Sky RSK. ** but 2" more than a stock F-350 (4+" more that you have now) sounds like plenty to me

Don't be bothered Gary. You have so much going on and I am in no rush to rip into Li'l Red's front end. The original idea was to upgrade Big Blue's suspension while the engine was out, because that would be expedient and make the most sense. I have pivot bushings and the rear of the spring bushings that have been sitting in a box since last year. This will be the last piece of the puzzle, since I was too cheap or broke to drop that kind of money on some simple little part.

You know Gary, unless you have some really bad blood with FTE I wouldn't discount listing these parts in their marketplace. It would cast a much wider net. But I guess that depends on how hard it becomes to unload these parts.

Looks like we were typing about the same time...so the letters were painted on. Good to know - that’s another conversation to have with my future paint guy. The name for this roller is a brayer. Just a tip to help you find one from a guy who worked in commercial art back in the days before computers changed everything.

This is true traversing flat and level ground but going over bumps/rocks and landing is going to subject the front springs to normal weights and the winch bumper, extra battery and whatever else (like the compressor)

Sorry I thought you were planning to make a tank. Maybe that came from one of the suggestions in the bumper/spare discussion. ? I honestly didn't expect you to underspring the truck and rely on bladders, but wanted you to consider what else was going on back there before pulling leaves, switching blocks, etc.. and then realizing you needed the sway bar and more spring.

I didn't realize BB's had been replaced. Either set is far better than mine. $162.45 a piece OEM. Let me know what you'd want. The bellhousing is rare as hens teeth. They have a habit of breaking off the slave cylinder boss. I'd say it would be gone in a day @ $100 Mine was. Can't see how bad the rust is on the headers. Only commented on the 12pt bolt. (Seems like there should be Stage 8 locks on there???) I'd think those a bargain at $450 if the rust isn't bad.

I think the sway bar is just helping the inside wheel planted with such limited suspension. Where a taller truck with softer springs would roll too much, (anti roll bar) when the off side of a 250 hits the bump stops it IS going to lift the inside wheel. It also brings both dampers into play. We had that discussion the other day. Personally I think you should get Big Blue fully outfitted before deciding on a rear spring. Air bags are great for occasional trailering or carryng a load of wet sand. Being on the trail with a month's worth of provisions and losing an air line or tearing a bag is going to make for dangerous going. I know I always have 7-800# in the bed. If I had softer springs it wouldn't ride level and likely wallow. How much is your air receiver/ bumper going to weigh? How much is an additional 19 gallons of gasoline, cantilevered past the rear axle? How will mounting a high lift Jack and the spare up that high change the CG? Speaking of.... you might ask Scott about welding a pressure vessel. The guys I knew that were certified for nukes/ subs/ airframes would have a lot of knowledge to share about something like that.

Then we both are showing our age. I was thinking some of the road racing cars did the same bulging fenders to fit wider wheels & tires. When I Googled all I found where the trucks for pictures. I was also thinking if it was me that wanted to do this how I would go about it. I am also cheap (read poor ) and why I was thinking the duel rear wheel fenders as a start for the bulge. They might look a little boxy but it would have the shape & lines to match the body. Sometimes its not how it looks but how it works! Dave ---- Absolutely! But Alex was saying how important it was to keep the bullnose look. Follow Shaun's link and then look at the '80-'86 Bronco (as they don't have them pictured on an F-series) Eta: pic of Bullnose front wheel opening for comparison I think you could pull a female off the existing fenders to get the flat top and the crease around the Bullnose wheel arch. Then cut out the fiberglass wheel arch and slap the mould on the outside. Flip it over and lay the new opening into the ADV fender. Those fenders are shown as having 4 1/2" flare and 4" rise.

Kind of a shame the ones in Shaun's link lose the squared off wheel arches, because otherwise they look ideal for you Alex. They are fiberglass, so I suppose that's easy enough to remedy.

... and they COULD get a 4x4 transmission and transfer case from you! The thing is that these are all known good parts from a running vehicle. Not junkyard parts of unknown provenence. Gary, I said before that your reputation among bullnose enthusiasts is unparalleled. No one would question buying parts from you. I'd price the gearbox at 4 and see what happens. Are those L&L's stainless or ceramic? AFAIK stainless is nla and very pricey. I thought the 750 was going to your brother? You'll also have a complete DSII setup with distributor. I recall someone asking about that swap recently. And if it was for a Windsor, at least they'd have most of it. I want to know what the front shackles look like when you get them out. At $115 each for Chinese repop's I'd be willing to buy them IF they are in much better shape than I think they are.

I know the suspension mods are more than you were expecting to bite off at this time but I think they will make for a much more enjoyable ride awa a more capable off roader. A toast to TRANSFORMATION!

Wait! You're getting the best gift of all. You get to be surrounded by your adoring progeny. I hope the grantwins don't run you ragged. (But I'm sure you'll love it when they do)

Dave, When I think of box flares I'm always brought back to the early '80's group B Audi quattro rally cars... Maybe I'm just showing my age.

I don't know if she is the most thoughtful and considerate spouse on the planet, or if she is just contributing to your addiction.

A big part of 'the bullnose look' is the flat topped wheel arches. When you see an '80-'86 truck with a bricknose bed it is really odd. Given those fiberglass fenders require a fabricated space frame that needs to support not only the radiator but also a battery bouncing around, you might be better off buying some cheap repop fenders and cutting them up to extend the ones you have

That's like 3/4 of a mm, or 2/3 of my spark plug gap! I can't imagine that they don't rattle like crazy against that perch. Soon enough, it will be done.

Do you have a needle bearing or a solid bushing? After having broken two sets of fingers on the slide hammer puller I resorted to tapping two holes into my bushing and using bolts to push it off the crank pocket last time I did a clutch in the driveway. It was in there!

You're registered in Connecticut Alex? Have you figured out how the rodents got in there? The rubber boot looks intact. Might I suggest you remove the input shaft sleeve and clean the rust off the splines before putting it back together. A step farther would be minimal application of an extreme pressure paste like Honda Moly 60. This will help keep the disc from getting hung up.

Wow, those headers are tight. By the looks of the bolt it seems BB has seen quite a few miles with them??? I'd make a comment here about what's happened to Vernon and what you are having to do, but this is a family friendly forum.

Ok When Bill said it looked like they had cut the cross member away to get at the motor mount adapters I was definitely thinking both sides. Well... that makes the job a LOT simpler.

It's just on the one side?

..... Heart transplant. and a double knee replacement. Yes the pump is nice to have. **** positive review on eBay so go ahead and get one (or two) Could you please take some pictures of BB's cross member carnage while he's up on the lift? Have a safe drive and fun at the FORDification show. Enjoy your Birthday!