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The "little tree" is a vacuum manifold for the climate control and the speed control. 1/8 should be enough, because these operate on potential, not volume. The booster needs volume, and a functional check valve. Usually it is the center sprue of a vacuum tree located in one of the rear runners, like #7 or 8 depending on the manufacturer. Speaking of.... what manifold do you actually have?

This became a huge issue in early EFI Mustangs. I think it was #7, would eat so much oil that it would diesel and blow away the crown down to the ring lands, aasssnd away you go! Relocating this to a new bung in the plenum 'fixed' the problem, but it should never have happened.

Ooopsie! At least they weren't on a lanyard!

I wasn't saying anything about the French. They gave us a great deal on Louisiana territory! But a Chebbie carb? Sacrilege!!! You're running the booster from the front of the carb? Isn't there a manifold port in the back of that intake? So you've got the speed control disconnected! Did it help? What's up with the knife switch?

Well, there you go! Your Bronco is putting up a fuss because it's breathing through a "French" carburetor! 😉

I can buy CI Windsor manifolds all day long for $45-50 + $19 shipping. You must have found quite a deal on headers!

Okay, so it has an Edelbrock and not a Holley? There should be numbers stamped on the base flange near the passenger front bolt. Can you tell us what they are? Is there any way to ask the old owner what they did to the engine?

And there you go! Should steer a lot lighter and return to center now. 😉

Now, I'm an elephant??? 🐘.

Right. We actually have a how-to on our page at Documentation/Driveline/Speedometers, Gears, Cables, & Sensors and then the Speedo Cables tab. Of course you do, Gary! (but I don't know where, and there's no Dewey decimal system for the forum!).

I get it. Simply disconnect the bead chain. I also understand "4160" can be anything! What would help is a photo of the build & list #'s on the front of the choke horn...

My bricknose dash is different, but to release the cable you have to push the white retainer collar tab in towards the metal cable end.

I suppose Will will find out for the rest of you, soon enough!?!?

Will seems to have found them at JBG!?!?! https://shop.broncograveyard.com/mobile/Transmission_Transfer-Case-Mounts-Round-Mounts-80-86/productinfo/31606B/

Good morning Jeff! Another member just showed how effective his ultrasonic tank is at cleaning chrome. The rusting is an issue, because obviously it's not the chrome (chrome protects itself with an invisible oxide layer) The issue is super thin 'flash' plating and none of the "proper" under plating. Copper first, then nickel, THEN chrome. Copper and nickel CAN'T rust, and both are used because they bond tight to steel, whereas chrome really can't get a good footing. But this is what you get when you ask China to make X for $0.50 each! Perhaps you should go to the vendor reviews and bring it up. Last year I subbed (tagged) the head of Ford parts for LMC to that thread and explained in no uncertain terms some of the issues we have. (Like the body bushings being mislabeled.... but the right part is there!) Feel welcome to vent. 😁

I've been thinking about this... You say you can only get 17" of vacuum but the throttle won't close while running, and the engine won't idle at 650 like it should. Your build includes HEI, heads, headers, an Edelbrock intake and a 4160 carb.... (no mention of cam, compression ratio, carb CFM, model of intake, primary and collector size or muffler and tailpipe diameter) We definitely need more information before trying to tune a vehicle over the internet. Pretend we are completely blind... because basically we are! Did you buy the Bronco with all this installed? If so, can you ask the previous owner about it? Low vacuum and not wanting to idle down sounds like a mean cam, or a massive vacuum leak! But, that kinda precludes the part where there's so much vacuum that the throttle won't close while running. Is the carb warped from over tightening? Have you tried adding a second/stiffer throttle spring? Hopefully Bill can chime in about your carb tuning.

"Divorced" means the transfer case is entirely separated from the transmission. Yours it "married" by that sleeve/collar/ union.

As for the blower switch, it doesn't have an off position. You have to move the function lever to Off to turn the blower off. The bottom position on the blower speed is just Low. Thanks, I will get one of those ordered. As far as the blower motor, it’s blowing even with the function lever in Off. Maybe you have a wire chafed through? I'm looking at the diagrams and pin outs, and can't see how there's any ground with the function lever set 'off'...

Maybe I'm misunderstanding? It seems that either the steering wheel is not centered or the spindle is hitting the left stop too soon. This is a regular D44 axle? Have you looked at the wheels/spindles when turned all the way either direction? Are the angles the same?

Lock the steering wheel straight ahead and adjust your tie rod ends so the wheels are straight, with the correct toe in.

Bill Vose is our resident carburetor expert. I will ping him.... I can tell you that GM did have a 5 pin HEI module with retard You can use the (I) terminal of the fender mounted starter relay to trigger it. They were found in 1980 Toranado's...

I don't know what timing set you have in your Bronco. "If" as in if it has a proper straight up timing chain, then you can consider advancing the ignition timing for more power. But you don't have an ignition module that automatically retards the timing while cranking. That may cause laboured starts and kickback. It will certainly strain the starter and may hurt instead of help. There's thousands of members here. I can't possibly remember all their details, and your sig says nothing about a cam or timing gear set....

Do you have a vacuum gauge? You could try setting the mixture for highest idle. If the cam timing was straight up I'd say try advancing the ignition to 12-14° BTDC

My 460 with the factory cam and a double roller straight up timing set will smoke the tires right through 3rd! 👍

The crank keyway points straight up, at the cam. The tooth is centered, not retarded.