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Is it for the door/seatbelt/headlights on chime? Perhaps your truck had an inferred mileage sensor to set off the emissions light?

Geez, and I've even used the abbreviation over at FTE. D'oh! Does anyone have a definitive list of things that are unique to Flare Sides? Obviously the bed and the other things you mentioned. As I dismantle the F-100 parts truck, things really aren't that different between the Flare Side and the Style Side. However, aren't there subtle differences between 1980 trucks and the rest of the series (1981-86)? As for forums and how things are laid out, I'm good with whatever the brain-trust decides to do. I'm aware that F-100 trucks could come without power brakes and that some had a car lug pattern, but I don't think that's unique to Flaresides. 1980's had a unique flex circuit, some subtle wiring differences, and the door locks changed to 'pin type' at some point. Again I don't think this stuff in the cab was unique, but across the board for all pickups.

Be careful that you get an installer who knows how to remove and install the trim. If you're not from the rust belt the clips may be okay, but I needed both types (bottom + t&s) Try scouring that area with acetone or something. Usually adhesion problems like that are due to silicone, armor all, etc..

Teamwork makes the dream work! I'm responding, but I'm sure the two of you are quite busy! Hope today is as productive as the last!

I definitely don't see this as the point of a career. MAYBE the point of a JOB. But I see a career as a thing you do for the thing itself. I (almost always) enjoy going to work. Yes there are aspects of it that are a drag, and it would be nice to have all the free time I wanted. But now at age 60, where I'm in the financial position that I likely could have a comfortable retirement if I quit working now, I'm still thinking I'll work at least another 5 - 10 years. I figure as long as I enjoy what I'm doing and still have the energy to live my life when I go home I'll keep working. I do see in my 91 year old dad that energy level is a BIG thing as the years go on. He has to decide if he's going to go to church in the morning or come to our house in the afternoon for a family Christmas party. Working an 8 hour day would be way beyond anything he could do now, even if he didn't want to do anything else. I'm 31 years behind him, so it's no surprise I'm not there yet. But I see that it will be coming. And when I have to choose between working or living my life, I won't choose working. But until that point "working" is a valuable part of living my life. I get that not everyone has the luxury of having a "career" by this definition. And if all you can do for the middle ~60% of your life is try to prepare to enjoy the last 20%, well I feel sorry for you, but certainly hope that you can enjoy retirement. And I'm not a ladder-climber either. My company puts a lot of value on growth and learning. But I've been in my current job for probably about 20 years now. I still learn some new things, but I'm not at all interested in getting any more promotions. And thankfully my boss (who's about 20 years younger than me) appreciates what I bring to the company and doesn't demand that I bring more. I am lucky, and I know it. I suppose I'm just an outlier. The money and material things don't matter at all to me. Sure both are nice to have in abundance, but just cause a bunch of stress & drama. I would rather live in a cave than care what anybody does or thinks. I don't want to be 90, any more than I wanted to be 60, or even 30. Yet here I am, definitely not doing the things that interest me, but sometimes things I'm really good at.

I mentioned in another thread that I had that carb for years until I gave it to Nick & George for their scarlet Ranchero, and Matt chimed in that it was a good choice, that he used one too. It's hard to see all the details from my phone. Be certain that it's the one with a Ford sized ball stud and C6 kickdown, because I think there are some variations that come with GM or Chrysler/Dodge linkages. I found mine to be a little rich out of the box, but that's understandable, they would rather be safe than sorry.

I'm not sure he has a profile here, but I do know that Gary and Bill have contact with him when he's in the States. Cool dude and pretty knowledgeable about these 460 trucks. Maybe the two of you would find common ground? Maybe the opposite, IDK.,

What are you going to do for a carb if the PO destroyed it? I would recommend a Holley 0-80457-S as a nearly drop on replacement. Consider swapping the old Motorcraft ~7V choke element over, because this wasn't an HO to begin with and doesn't have a choke relay...

I hear Prashant paid a visit to Bill/85lebaronT2 recently. He has a passion for 460's and a wanderlust that I envy. Maybe you two need an introduction? 🤔 Maybe he can make Gary's G2G???

I don't think that glycol evaporates. As a clutch wears the fluid should get higher, not lower. But I'm really glad to hear that it's functioning now. Do take a look at the master pushrod where it connects to the pedal arm, and have your daughter press the clutch while you look at the master from the engine bay to see if the firewall is giving out.

TWO steps forward!

I've said before, your 'nation' is a conglomeration of dozens of countries with a common currency and president. When I think of hagglers I typically think of middle eastern and north Africans. And semites, but there's to be no discussion of politics or religion, so please ignore it as an observation, not any kind of judgement. You really ought to have a COLA as well as a "time served" raise incorporated into whatever contract you're obligated to. I can't imagine corporate work without one! But again, if I feel insulted by a negotiation I just walk out. I really don't care enough to 'deal' with people like that. Typically they come to find out when I'm working for the competition and eating their lunch.

I'm sorry your harness isn't more complete! Points noted. I would definitely try to get the 5-pin spark retard module. I think at FTE I made a list of generic (rather than $$$ Motorcraft) pigtails, and now we have a source for the distributor connector! The passenger fender power distribution and charging is pretty straight forward. If you're starting from nothing you might consider a cheap little fuse & relay center like I have and we are discussing in another thread. (I think I saw it's $28 now on Amazon) but it includes 5 30A relays, a 40A relay and a bag of assorted AGC fuses. It's nice to take all the lighting load off the fuse panel & dash harness, when the battery is right there.

Absolutely true. That's why it's best to test a battery with a load tester and not a voltmeter. I'm thinking starter, but I have no idea of the battery condition.

Fortunately that will go away very soon. You CAN reply to someone, and that way you can quote all, or part, of their post.

I didn't take it personally, I was just trying to reply to you directly, because it referenced my post. The DOT here uses plenty of salt, and mag chloride brine to precondition the roads. You aren't going to find an 80's truck without rotted spring hangers, crossmembers, radiator support, etc. Get out of the rust belt or the maritimes and I think you'll find solid vehicles. I also didn't mean to poke at Vivek. I'm just saying that people will nit pick and waste my time when I'm completely upfront about condition. "as is" means just that. Don't come to me six months later when you get a flat tire that I told you was 15 years old... I don't play that game. If you want to come on my property and threaten me over some stupid ****, you are likely to wake up in hospital (if you DO wake up)

I can try to get some dimensions off my prophylactic reinforcement. It's WAY easier to prevent it from tearing than to install the one "for severe damage" I think Gary has the TSB with both part numbers posted, but I've got no idea where it is.

I don't think the slave cylinder is going to magically suck fluid back in, but at least it's external and you can pull back the rubber boot and look for fluid. Has the level in the master gone down? (don't forget the rubber boot sometimes sticks and makes it appear dry) I'd be looking at the 4 fingered bushing that connects the pedal arm to the master pushrod eye. When that bush wears through you get poor adjustment and eventually the eye wears a groove in the pin of the arm. When that happens replacing the bush results in a crunch and immediate failure. In an emergency I temporarily fixed this by JB Welding a 9mm casing over the pin and using a washer & circlip in the extractor groove. Also look at the plastic bushings where the pedal crossover shaft pass through the support casting. I've never encountered it myself, but pictures on the forums leave no doubt that it happens. If the slave proves good, these are a good place to start. Basically you want to remove as much linkage slop as possible without preloading the master to the point where it closes off the reservoir. This is just my experience, and others may have more to add.

I'm saying to Vivek that how many miles are on the vehicle don't matter, what does matter is maintenance and lack of abuse. Maybe you think I'm off base? I personally think he's making much ado of nothing, and shouldn't be trying to chisel down a seller. Either it's a bad deal and you walk away, or it's fair and you drive it home. 🤷‍♂️ I realize other cultures revolve around bickering over price. That's not me, and never will be. I refuse to even make time for that nonsense.

David has pulled down the best documented mileage of our group. When he makes his annual pilgrimage to Gary's he sets his carb as lean as it will go. He has a 300 and I believe 2.75 gear. He has the factory air dam and has flushed out his headlight buckets and removed the passenger mirror in an effort to squeeze every drop out of a gallon. Drive 60 like a geriatric and I do believe he almost got 20 mpg one year. Then of course there was the year he had to turn back because of oiling problems, but that wasn't related to any of his hypermileing mods..

I'm not certain why you'd want to fabricobble an HEI and heatsink if you now have a plug-n-play harness? I'm using a TP-40 from NAPA and it's been good for decades. Sure, it's not the cheapest, but those guys give me jobber pricing and I can confirm that the spark retard while cranking works. I purchased a NOS Blue Streak coil on eBay in 2011. It has been good and has the 'buttons' to fit the stock horseshoe connector. If you're going to use a GM module get one for an '80 Toranado and figure out how to use a transistor to ground the 5th pin when the "I" terminal of your starter relay is hot. That way at least it retards and proper static advance is not fighting the starter. Also, I've seen people who do this GM module thing use the aluminum shell of the DS-II module as a heatsink. That's good because you don't have to consider how to splice it in or how to mount it.

There were 2 plates. A giant thing that used to be repoped by Terrapin mfg. and a small triangle that had two folded sides that attach through the side of the trans tunnel and the pinch weld above, where the cowl meets the firewall. This one goes on the inside. I've seen where people who experienced firewall failure wedged a length of 2x4 or something from the bottom of the MC to the radiator support in order to get home. A zip tie will hold it to the MC. I don't know what they did at the front....

You don't need any icm if you no longer have the feedback carb. Definitely get a spacer (I used Trans-dapt on my 460) If you have NPT taps put a plug in the EGR port of the manifold ... and, of course you need 2' of 3/8 fuel line!

Is the TC fixed yoke (1345) or slip yoke (1356) Id imagine that it's going to need shortening in either case, but I'm not too familiar with the length of an AOD since they were only behind 302's AFAIK. Be aware that if you're going to have the pedal assembly out there is no better time to pre-emptively add the small firewall reinforcement that prevents the clutch master cylinder from tearing the firewall.

Continental/Lycoming makes a lot of sense at an airfield. By slant-six I assume you mean Dodge?