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Parts availability is already an issue, but when things like rings, pistons and bearing shells stop being made for lack of demand, Humpty Dumpty is gonna be in trouble. Documentation isn't going to help.... Look at the SSME's that are being thrown away with Congress's latest space boondoggle. And, do you think that the Saturn V stack doesn't have drawings & documentation? Sure we have better now. Composite hydrogen tanks and 3D printed combustion chambers rather than TIG welded tanks and furnace brazed retro cooling expansion nozzles. SpaceX's Super Heavy has more than double the thrust of Saturn V, but once the manufacturing facilities and practical knowledge is gone, it's gone, just like buggy whips or whaling harpoons. Who's going to knap me an axe head or spear point for tomorrow's hunt?

Stuff like that, liquid electrical tape, PVC pipe glue... etc I just grease the threads, usually with Superlube or dielectric silicone because it doesn't stain.

Carbed* 460's never had a Y-pipe. Most EFI 460's didn't get one, just 2 head pipes to a common flange. The only 460 I can think of was "The Giving Truck", a '95 F-450 that had an O2 sensor just past the Y. But that was EFI, and the exhaust manifolds ended in a different spot than on a carbureted engine. I'm sure you could find a way to make it fit, but.... A good muffler shop could bend you a pair of 2 1/2" head pipes and weld them in to a commercially available 3" flange fitting easier than finding those hens teeth.

I now have 3 tubes. One in my top box, one it my Go box and one in the sealants tub on the shelf. I do NOT have an open can of High Tack anywhere..... anymore!

Looks good to me! I'm afraid I know nothing of post war inline sixes..

I didn't expect to see arcing, but you have a point about the wires.... Always look at the last thing you changed. 💡. 👍

The asphalt definitely looks wet. Yeah, I was saying that the starter cable is an easy factory part with a PMGR swap. The alternator charge and regulator harness can go all the way back to the PDC, and some boxes have the megafuse+ holder just attached at the end. These are both easy victories! Be glad you haven't been conditioned to a learned helplessness response. Electric shock has been used for evil for a long time. 😈

The carb is closer to 635-650 CFM. I have owned this truck since 1988 and never saw double digits with 4.10's and a T-19. You really need the 4180 rebuild kit. The gaskets on the metering plates are different and the factory carb is just different in many little ways. Yeah Holley doesn't have a 2stage powervalve listed. It doesn't really matter unless you have it to the floor all the time. Just choose an 8-9 and you'll be fine. I used to refer people to the Flemworld tutorial on tuning the 4180 (Mustang GT site) It's gone, but you might dig it up on the way back machine or find the Hot Rod article it was based on. Definitely drill & pull the idle mixture screws. Or be an animal and chisel two chunks out of the base flange to get at them. You want to be sure those passages are clean! The other big difference between the 4180 and a generic 1460 like the 80457-S is the vented float bowls. If you don't have ALL the vacuum/emissions/charcoal stuff the bowl vents are a liability that will dump fuel on a hot engine instead of into the carb throat.. The front clip swaps. You have to change the mounting points for the lower rear of the fenders (bricks bolt through the front of the rocker) I hope this helps. If there's anything I didn't address plz LMK

Oh, I get that! And I'd be very tempted at under $100 delivered The whole reason I went 130A is because it's overkill for any of my needs, but puts out the amps at idle that I would never have with the 2G. If it's never stressed it should never fail! Right? right......??? 🤣

What happened to your tailgate gate plans with the spare and Jerry can???

The module is basically just a transistor that's used to cut power to the coil and initiate spark. The ribbed aluminum case is a big heat sink. Ignition coils can work fine when cold and start to cut out when they get hot. This is why I suggest examining them for function, and why I keep "known good" spares,. As it's easier to swap one and see if the problem goes away than it is to set up a test where you can heat the component and put it under load....

Honestly, I had a Miller synchrowave welder that put out 220A. It was the size of a small refrigerator and had fans that ran constantly when welding aluminum. I'm not sure why anyone would need that, or how it could be packaged in a case this diameter.

So what makes it a 220A alternator? The internal fans can't get bigger. The diodes can't really get any bigger either....

That's an excellent deal for a 220A alternator! Are you installing a pizza oven in your pickup?

They might have other lengths & configurations... I expect it's going to be tight on a short chassis.

I personally am very frustrated by the fact that posts aren't numbered (forward facing) on this forum. Many times I'd like to tell someone to "go back 3 pages and look at post 2317..." But that's impossible and I have to open a menu, select the permalink, copy it, return to the last post of the thread, compose a post, open the link drop-down, back out an antiquated URL prefix, paste my permalink, and then wait for the link to resolve on the overloaded Nabble servers. It's an incredible pita that we've had to put up with for years and could be easily avoided.

NEW* Regulator for Ford 3G Alternators w/ LRC • 12 Volt, A-Circuit, I-S-A Terminals, 14.6 Vset, 2.5 sec. LRC, White • Ford 3G Series IR/IF Alternators • MFR:FORD Used On: Ford (1994-2003) , Mercury (1994-1999) Replaces: F4RU10316AA F4ZU10316AA F4ZU10316AC F4ZZ10316A GR814 VR1738 F795 62-02-5625 35-207 35-207-1 F08-08 8050-514 1053 YR-F32 230-14030 102019 AFD6021 T802 Here are some part numbers you can cross, to get the engineering number you will find ON a part. Also note "white"....

You can look at applications and see them offered in luxury vehicles (Lincoln's and Grand Marquis) as well as the Escort where the tiny engine would bog from the load. (Hence LOAD Response Control) I don't think LRC, which are typically white, was ever offered in a truck or donors like the Taurus/Sable.

It's lower correct? My hood is sitting lower than my cowl panel currently. Maybe it will line up lol. I gave up trying to align my hood so it not only had even gaps but also didn't catch the cowl when it opened up. I just need to stop by in the morning I guess and return it. I can grab that snorkel and grill intake then. I think the raised portion between the creases is the difference. Honestly it's been decades since I noticed. I put my old bent one back on. (it's a work truck after all)

Not many of us have access to that type of equipment anymore. Please let us know what you find

I've mentioned Maniac Electric Motors before. They really seem to care about service!

So you make up an AN line (brings me back to the '70's) then thread it onto an adapter, and then clamp that adapter over the heater core flare???

Flare sides have vertical letters. (Cory's pickup is pictured on the homepage) Stylesides have an extended font.

You have to lift the arm first, to get the lock clip to shift over and release. 💡

If it were me I'd go with an HEI. It's simple to wire and GM modules are really cheap compared to a good DS-II box. MSD AL6 is a bad joke for a street vehicle IMHO. Stay away from headers. Do add a P,MGR starter. New manifolds can be had for $45 on eBay., if you can't drill it out... "Compatable with EFI heads" doesn't exist. You either buy heads and EFI manifolds or you make it work with what you have now. The manifolds don't end in the same place, and the header pipes are different. I have separate flanges at the muffler. Bill's EFI exhaust has a single flange with two pipes. Either it goes to a collector (EFI) and a catalytic, or the muffler is 2x 2 1/2" in and single 3" out (carbed) I made my system from a discontinued school bus muffler and a stainless universal Magnaflow tail pipe.