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The harness is already there for knee hole courtesy lamps. Yes. The door jamb switch closes the power side....

Here's a picture of the air cleaner Here's a screenshot of the applications (upper right: 6 cylinder F150, 2wd, Auto except Calif = 184 & 185) And here's a screenshot of 184 & 185 So what part numbers do you need?

With a 3' wrench I don't need a cheater to have it hit the frame. 🙄

Can you just take the sticks and transmission mount off and slide the TC/gearbox assembly back out of the way on the crossmember? I've done this quite a few times and it saves me having to fight it back up into place. Of course I'm usually working without a lift or even a proper transmission jack so it might not be a big deal for you.

I think a big pipe wrench can handle it. I've seen them take some serious abuse pulling apart hydraulic cylinders and similar. Sounds like you had an enjoyable day with great company even if you didn't end up with what you set out for.

Throw a Pertronix unit in there and forget about setting points every 3,000 miles ever again.

If the valve went click when you did a leak down and made pressure after that, it wasn't a seat issue. Tight, sticky, something...

Does it pull the part up? Can you show us the screen you're seeing where their parts finder is telling you it's wrong?

An 85 didn't come with points but it could be a failing module or the pickup inside the distributor. With the ignition on put the timing light on the coil wire that goes to the center of the distributor and rap on the side of the distributor with a screwdriver handle. Does it flash? Is your ignition module on the driver's side known good?

One conundrum I hadn't considered is how I'm going to attach a bar to a yoke that doesn't exist? I need to get it off, but I don't really want to use an impact on the ring and pinion

Weber is huge. They owned all the Carter and Edelbrock patents for decades. It's likely the YFA that came on your truck was made in their factory.....

You can ask.... It's probably "proprietary information" 😂 I'd bet if you tore one open there'd be a bunch of potted splices and likely a chunk of weight to make it feel more substantial. I don't have a real high opinion of them. Kinda like Power master or DUI. They don't offer anything substantial other than the hype about their products. Not to say "bad" products, just that they over sell and under deliver. (quality isn't what it should be for the price)

😳 Yeah, that's definitely their problem. I don't know much about timing the geared cam in a 300. I assume you can get offset keys, like my Ducati bevel's? "Straight up" or zero with a 460 is when the crank and cam keyways are pointing directly at one another. If you are thinking about a 2-Barrel consider a progressive Weber. Some hate them and some love them. 🤷‍♂️ I remember when the Ducati 906 Paso came out with one. They worked really well.

The 3G has an internal regulator. It's just a dummy chrome box for them to make their connections, and accept the existing harness plug

The regulator is just a dummy, so everything looks like an old style 1G It does make it more of a plug n play setup

That Offy C and 390 is a great combo for the 300! I gave one to a CT member from FTE (Josiah) with the Holley (black) cap. So, was it you, or your machine shop that didn't scrub out the engine before assembly? That's got to be frustrating, to lose a fresh engine. 😖

Don't forget to check the Johnson rod and top off the blinker fluid!

Where do you live Clutch? (sorry if I can't be bothered to go look at our map)

I have one of those little $4 hand held pump sprayers from Horrid Fate that I use for WMO. It works great, after you ream out the nozzle.

Certainly not better for your health, or the environment. People didn't care as much back then... They would spray their home (and thenselves!) with DDT. Smoking was something your Dr. did, in the office, during your examination (also on planes, in hospitals & restaurants) There was something to be said for dropping a carb in the basket before lunch and it being clean as a whistle a half hour later so you could get back to work.

Painless seems to think all power passes through the ammeter rather than the shunt. They also show the Y/W sense (A on the regulator) attaching AFTER the Megafuse. If that fuse blows the alternator is going to have a meltdown and possibly catch on fire.

LOL!! I suppose I should not trust the english diagrams from which I take the parts name? And yes, I am talking about the female plug that goes in the distributor connector (C322). BTW, I found that the MSD 8869 adaptor could maybe be a correct connector too. No need to cut the plastic flaps to fit, it seems to already have them at the right place. The illustration calls it a rotor rather than a reluctor as well. For those of us that speak fluent Ford it gets confusing. Much like if I told someone their thermactor bypass needed replacing.

Rubber donut drive too? Edit: for those that don't know, these cars used what is essentially a rag joint instead of universal on the driveshaft.

The 300d was a classic that just ran forever. Glad to see someone making use of that engine. There was someone here In town that had a td (wagon) running on WVO. I could smell it before I even heard it.

One thing I've used that really helps make it easier is a watering wand from the garden center. For under $20 you can save your knees and not have to get down in a puddle. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gilmour-Thumb-Control-Watering-Wand-Nozzle-with-Swivel-Connect/604271424?athcpid=604271424&athpgid=AthenaItempage&athcgid=null&athznid=si&athieid=v0_eeOS41Nyw0MTEuNTUsMC4wMTU4MzgxNjY3NDQ5MDQzOCwwLjVf&athstid=CS055&athguid=OnTIuvMI5C9-Sy5oo1R571MoaXY-NngRPA1h&athancid=924591420&athposb=0&athena=true