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:nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig: . Good luck! I just asked the same, in another thread.... You've made progress! Which brand/model switch valve are you going with? 800 miles? That's a long drive with those gears! Not that a line crew wouldn't go that far for disaster mutual response but unless I was making that kind of $$$$ I doubt I'd be heading down to the flatlands in a rig like yours. Hope you have all the kinks worked out. Let us know how she does or if there's any other way we can help. 🙂

Edit: I'm now the proud owner of a 36 inch pipe wrench a 3 ft length of 1-in black iron and the cheap and dirty breaker bar from Horrid Fate......

. Thanks! I hope your wiring investigation goes well, as well.

:nabble_smiley_good: Tomorrow for me is the only day without rain before it freezes up and changes to 'wintry mix' so although no sun, it starts raining at 1AM Sunday right through to Monday morning. Do you know how much I love working overnights???? 🤪 Off to Horrid Fate for more tools I'll never use first thing. I hope to get my destroyed pinion yoke off, seal and crush collar replaced, gear oil changed (no drain on a 10.25) the cover glued back on and driveshaft back in so I can have RWD again. Wish me luck. 😆

Right. So maybe you should look at the appropriate EVTM to see how the charge wiring differs between the two. If you're going 3G or one-wire all that's going to have to change anyway. And, I have to say that does look like a factory choke cap, but I've never seen one with a spade at the edge. 🌠 Perhaps Bill can fill me in on what carbs/trucks came like that? I really hate to have or give bad information. Sorry

Probably straight from the alternator (mine is) But with a 1G the wiring was different between the regulator and alternator depending if you had an ammeter or idiot lights. You already know someone hacked up the choke wiring to install a relay (wrongly) Who knows what -if anything- is left of the old setup? Bill recently posted a good photo of a Motorcraft choke cap. It has a brown (Bakelite?) Oval on the side with a single bullet sticking out.

No, not a spade connector.

???

I have a cheap and dirty Chinese little fuse/relay panel where my starter relay used to live. It houses fuses and relays for my PMGR, high beams, low beams, fog lights, horn and ..... I'm having a brainfart. I also have a relay (Ford kit) for my blower motor. My Megafuse holder is mounted to the side of it. There are pictures here on the forum (somewhere)

The white and black stator wire ensures that the choke only opens if the engine is turning. If you set it up for 12v key on, if the engine stalls while it's sitting there warming up the choke continues to come off, and you likely have NO choke* when you go to restart it. Motorcraft 7v chokes have a single bullet connector while 12V caps from Holley or Edelbrock have two spade connectors. It's easy to tell at a glance. AND you can swap a Motorcraft cap onto any Holley carb.....💡

Probably because someone saw I diagram for a 351HO and decided it was one of Ford's "better ideas"

Just FYI this is what the actual factory courtesy lights look like, with harness. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Light-Group-Option-Under-Dash-and-Glovebox-Great-Price-tp143781.html

It's almost like you need one of those little anemometer's....

Another thing to think about is that you are going from a 40-60A alternator to a 95 or 130A alternator that has been proven to be able to put out 130 or 160 amps reliably. So, the two fusible links might save the cab wiring but 610 (and it's corroded connections) is going to fail if 37 doesn't. Just using your "plug n play" solution isn't going to provide any more power in the cab for a stereo or whatever other load someone has in mind (6-way heated leather seats from a Lincoln?)

BroDozers aren't my thing but I could well imagine he had at least that much into it.

Good to see you back! I suppose every project comes to an end (unless you're Gary).

Most of these dashes are black underneath. (at least my burgundy one is) I guess white would be a better substrate for buckskin or spruce?

I'm sure Will isn't the only one who's S101 is toast from decades of use/abuse. Perhaps we should consider that adding a 3G to/through a clapped out plug is a recipe for disaster?

We've already heard THAT splice was completely destroyed. Maybe I'm the only one who's conscious of wire gauges and listening to the conversation? I understand the rabbit hole you've dug but I'm not going down there.

I already suggested just running a wire from where the two fuselinks for the cab splice into 37 that goes into C610, but not everybody likes that idea.... 🙄

It's another cold rain today, so I'm saying "screw it, not for me today!" But the $29.95, 3' pipe wrench IS in stock at my local Horrid Fate. I know where I'm headed now....

It's a real timesaver when you're doing a clutch on your back in the driveway. 👍

I might actually be able to get to that. (Carlisle was a thing for me and I used to go launch rockets near Scranton) whereas Tulsa is a bit too far given my work demands and location in CT.. Even if it doesn't happen I'd still be glad to meetup with some members around here (the shop teacher in Newburgh, and the guy in Waterford with the light 250 for sure)

Note view A, where the factory courtesy lamps attach to the dash frame.

If you pull up the EVTM you can see exactly where C125 is in your truck behind the instrument panel, by the radio.