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I don't know why it's on the top, but I don't know that it matters. You can't put it actually at the bottom of the entire volume because there isn't room under the ring gear. So you can't get to where stuff will settle and you are only going to be getting stuff that's splashed up. And stuff'll be splashed up to the top of the cover about as well as anywhere else. Yep It IS in line with the ring gear. My autistic mind is always asking 'why?'

I put it as low as I felt I could....

So I'm going to read more to see how that is achieved and what the advantages or disadvantages are. But it would seem that it has to be a better approach than turning mechanical energy into electric energy and then turning electric energy back into mechanical energy. I guess it could work for Blue??? No one is ever going to beat the laws of thermodynamics. Phase change is inherently energy intensive. I try to make this point every time some idiot starts pushing 'green hydrogen' as a storage solution for automobiles or the grid. I'm really tired of the greenwashing BS

FWIW, what kind of alternator do you have? I'm pretty sure you have mentioned the condition of your cables and IIRC the battery terminals. If a cold battery will not crank it's time for a new one. I'm REALLY surprised a group 65 doesn't have enough 'berries' to crank your PMGR. Mine is 1000A/850 CCA Gary has the results of my PMGR "test" here on the site. somewhere. It is not that much draw.

It's an interesting approach! 🤷‍♂️ Personally, I think it doesn't offer me a thing over the available thermal clutch and a whole lot more complexity that I always try to avoid. It's basically coming on at 60% until that is not enough and then it locks up completely? Why would I want to 'force' my fan on? It already knows if the radiator is not keeping up. My distributor vacuum advance knows if the coolant reaches a threshold, and steps up my idle automagically. I will avoid wiring, "electronic modules" of any kind at almost any cost.

Thanks Dane!

Again, you're the expert, and I respect that. I'm just trying to offer insight from the decades of 385 experience I have. You pick up on this right away, I KNOW. so.... I should stop offering unsolicited 'advice' and wait for your input. But , at the same time, you may not know the important questions to ask. Hopefully I'm not getting on your nerves. (I can definitely be that way) The truck is obviously a ¢|u$+€£ £π¢! Let me know if and how I can help.

Good info, thanks! Does this fix the cracks shown above?

I used my brother's crappy Chicago Electric 90A flux welder to put the bung in my cover.. A little work with my Foredom to clean up the spatter and get the ridge off the inside. There's a big dent from a chunk of spider getting jammed into the cover. Does anyone understand why the magnet is glued to the top ? I put the bung as low as I thought I could... This thing doesn't have a seal washer. I'll have to use PST.

email sent.... Received, and I will let you know when it's on the way. Thank you SO much! THIS is what the forum is about..

email sent....

Through 78 are internal balance, so no 'pork chop' behind the harmonic damper (just a sleeve spacer) And a flywheel with no lumps or welded on weights. If the rear crank flange has an equal bolt circle pattern you can be sure it's a pre '79 (internal) crank. When you pull the pan off you will see the rear pickup, held by a tab under a flange nut on the bearing cap stud. FRPP offered a rear sump 'kit' with pan, pickup & dipstick. I'm going to suggest that a pair of L&L swap motor mounts will put the engine higher and probably solve the belt hitting the steering adjuster screw, and make more room for the alternator. These seem to still be okay with the fan in the radiator shroud. (but I'm not trying to spend your money) If this engine has a mechanical pump I can recommend a new timing case (about a Franklin) This fixes water port erosion and the dipstick in one fell swoop. Be sure to check the water pump backing plate for heavy pitting or holes. Again, I'm minding your business, and I apologize for the overshare.

I can make sense of this.

Now I've just gotta straighten out my free cash and get an order out for parts. But first I'm going to take a nap. I didn't get any rest today

Cory (NS)and Jeff (QB) are both in CA. You can tag them to this thread. We also have a few north and west.

My bung came from the Jungle fairy today. (they strike like Ninjas!) It wasn't too windy this afternoon so I welded up the gash in my muffler and prepped the cover.

It's not the first time "the book doesn't make sense" It probably won't be the last.

Alright then. Still matches the # shown above. 🤷‍♂️

The used unit* shown definitely has a tank selector.

Question for you... What year F-350? If it's manual ('83 on) how was a rear sump pan implemented with the 71 engine? '71 has a dipstick in the timing cover.... All '80/ trucks have a rear sump. There's an extended pickup that hangs from a stud in the passenger side #4 main cap. With an internal balance crank I don't even know if the pickup tube will clear the counterweights. I know you can't use a D9 block because the sleeves project too far.

If he did, I didn't save it. I have just about everything Gary copies me on. It's not in my parts folder. You need the BA suffix to find the correct part..... https://www.nrmauto.shop/product/1980-1986-ford-bronco-ac-hvac-climate-temperature-control-e1ah-190961-ba-ford-factory-shop/

Thanks Jim, live & learn. What is MPC? The Master Parts Catalog. I do believe Gary showed you where that page is?

NOT a part number, an engineering number. Counterintuitively the number ON a Ford part is not the number that you need to order. You need to go to the MPC and look up the number you find to determine the number you need... Edit: tutorial and image, for the future. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/how-to-decode-ford-part-numbers.html

Ditto