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I know it's here, but I don't know it inside out Appreciate the link though

Kurt, I need to look at the '96 EVTM. There's a lot going on here,.. But if you're looking for a ground there's one right below the wiper motor. That stud should be tied to your intake or block. ALL grounds in the truck are tied together. If the schematic shows ground it doesn't matter.

I have no good opinion about Nyloc. The links came with distorted prevailing torque lock nuts. If you're going to replace them you should use the same. Often these are distorted into a triangle, and you'll find a triangle stamped into one flat (on aftermarket, but not the OEM nuts)

Gary, Jim - Pardon my ignorance, but I didn't know that there was a 100A 1G existing... I thought that our only choices were between 1G, 2G (to avoid), 3G (a bit complicated for dummies like me) and One Wire (to avoid too). The goal of a «Big Brother to 3G» journey would be to see how much simplified could be the 3G upgrade process. How close to "Plug'nPlay" it could be... But maybe this is, as Andy Williams sang, an Impossible Dream? Gary, I just sent an email to you. I'll be out for two days (activity work+fun with my employees, we rent a chalet for the gang), so don't be surprised if do not answer before the weekend. Have to go, they wait for me! At one point Gary shot me down insisting that there was only 40 & 60A 1G's I've literally looked up the numbers for 70/100A 1G's and posted them on this forum. A 3G will get you better charging at idle and if you want much more than 80ish amps to your inverter then you definitely need one. If all you're charging is a drone or a phone it's completely pointless. So, it's up to you (like I said the last time) to determine your use case and how much headroom you are comfortable with.

Removed the center panel cover, the radio, and glove box. All the vac pots can be operated by hand. Removed screws from heater controls and moved controls backwards. While fishing, I found the bottom lever, does not have a cable hooked to it to tell the pots what to do? Gotta do some fishing for the cable after I search for cable diagrams. The cable (wire*) should go to the heater box behind the glove compartment

If I still had a starter relay like a normal pickup that would be easy... But I don't, and I'm so frustrated with it I've given up. I know I've got it wired correctly. But I don't know if the board is screwing with the input when the engine is running. I've said MANY times that [module] is like a map with "Thar b Dragon's 'ere" covering unexplored territory.

Once I start the truck it goes brain dead. It only remembers until Ithe engine is running. I can set it, turn the key off and back to run and it's fine. But as soon as I key the starter it is lobotomized. My truck doesn't stall... 😉

It works if I don't turn the truck on! I can switch back and forth, I'm metermatch knows where I set it

Yes, to "oh wait" Yes, I am hitting save. IDK...

It sets fine with the key in run. As soon as I start the engine it goes brain dead and reads E I have tried over a dozen times. I am sure it has power in run & start. If I don't start the engine after setting it, it works correctly on both tanks. (I run one empty to set E and have the other full to set F) Switching back and forth results in expected behavior. I'm like a damned savant when it comes to wiring. I don't think I'm "doing it wrong". 🤷‍♂️

That's Methed up! 😆

My temp gauge sits rock solid at N. Of course my gauges are steppers (I think) At any rate they use the same senders but have some board screwed to the back of the cluster. I'm thinking this is some type of A/D converter for the instruments. Maybe this is why I can't get my Metermatch to work?

strikes again!

You're absolutely right. I just think about all the repairs I've made where the customer is in denial and "wants proof". 🙄 A 15 second borescope video showing the shattered piston lands or hole in the piston from detonation is good medicine for this type of idiocy.

Loctite PST.... (ask Gary.... It is made for this 'stuff')

The more you know! 🌠 I don't want or need anything fancy. I already ordered a weld in bung from Amazon. I'll take care of that when I pull the cover back off. I only want to be able to change the gear oil without creating a huge mess and having to wait for RTV to set.

Glad it worked out for you Larry. But this does speak to problems with process control at Champion if the box it came in was not trashed.

Riffraff diesel offers the Mag hytech* cover. Them and Banks are the only ones I know of.

It was scbill in the whydtytt. Start here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/WHYDTYTT-What-Have-You-Done-To-Your-Truck-Today-tp148p145190.html HTH....

That's probably what made come look at this after blowing up the LMC vendor review yesterday. 😄 That's why, even though I have a Custom, and would never want footwell lights I knew the schematic and the drawing where the mount points were shown. If I had the paper book I would have cracked it open to that very page. My "gifted" mind makes all kind of connections and files things into folders and drives only I would understand. Autism is both a blessing and a curse. 🙄

Someone was asking if the door jamb switch made power or ground because they wanted to run a wire for footwell lights. I said the harness connector is already there above the trans hump, between the radio and footwell. I put the schematic and the view of the back of the dash with the two mounts on the dash frame highlighted..l. IDK who it was. Maybe I'll look for it when I get on the road this morning

Good eye! I'd say Photoshop, but given the mileage.....

Did your '89 have 4.10's? Open or LS? It's like any other BOM: ratio, axle capacity, coded components list, date of manufacture. Obviously the details were more important in the fall of 86 when this axle sat in a freight car full of the same waiting to get stuffed under my truck. Edit to clarify punctuation and spelling. I HATE my new screen protector! 🤬

Leakdown or borescope? 🧐

This....