kramttocs

I have one you are welcome to for shipping. You can have the whole unit or just the white portion, whichever you prefer. Came from an 86 F250 300 with a/c and dual tanks so will be the same as the one in your photo. If you do swap out the white, Ford actually had little clips that attached the faceplate for dealer a/c units. That's an option if you can find them otherwise button head bolts should work fine. Might be able to tap the white plastic and forgo the nuts.

Great info guys. Thanks Gary - I appreciate that on both items. Let me see what I find out tonight with blowing through mine. I am pretty sure mine had a white dot on it but not positive. Bill - never thought about it before this issue but I can see the benefit of venting outside the air cleaner like that.

Also, I didn't think of this before and don't suspect this matters but the truck came with a K&N air cleaner filter and that is what is still in there. Only mentioning it in case it might hold the fumes in more than a typical one.

You guys are great. The quickfuel has the angled top vents that go into the air cleaner. I'll add that to my test list - after sitting hot, pop the hood, remove the air cleaner lid and try. This evening I'll remove the separator. I've never taken one apart to know how they work but you're saying I should be able to blow in the top port (the one on the side of it) and air should come out the two ends? Should I be able to blow in any port and air come out the others or is there some baffle/restriction that would be expected?

That filter bracket looks great...and professional.

Great news Gary! And as always, thanks for your hard work in keeping this site going and taking care of the details we often are unaware of.

That looks great! Glad you found one.

Now that's interesting! Albeit the thought brought up the Pet Sematary achilles tendon scene so could have passed on that but still very interesting

Thanks David/Jim. That is a good idea and one I started to test this evening but then I went a little too far to really compare it apples to apples. After work I checked the sight glass on the front bowl and I had to shake the truck to see that the level was below the glass. This was after I parked it in the shop and left the hood closed after the 30 mile highway drive home the other night. Assuming it was right in the middle of the glass when I killed it, it seems like that is a lot of fuel to expand and overflow into the intake, then contract back down to below the sight but possible? I'll mention here that when sitting at idle the fuel is right in the middle of the glass and the fuel pressure gauge on the log reads between 4.5 and 5 (no regulator, just the 86 electric pumps). The gauge is not liquid filled fwiw. Also, after sitting long enough to cool the gauge goes down to 0. I took the truck for a drive around town with ac on so it didn't take long to hit operating temp. I then brought it back home, parked it and popped the hood. I wanted to see the glass better so I removed the air cleaner - played hot potato. Removing it is why I said it's not a great comparison to normal usage. While watching the gas rise in the glass I also noticed the pressure gauge rising. It went all the way to 12.5 before it stopped rising. At this point the fuel was about to the top of the glass. Not all the way to the top but close. Looking in the top of the carb periodically I never saw any fuel. This was about 30 min after shutoff. At this point I turned the key and the truck started right up, no throttle needed and no pop from the exhaust. Going to 12.5 psi seems like a lot and I suspect it's even higher if the air cleaner was on and hood was closed. I thought the fuel vapor separator would prevent this and return some of the fuel to the tank but maybe not? It seems like the sight glass may be a reliable and easy way to track this situation. Can do David's test and monitor it then repeat with the hood shut until completely cool.

Jim - you're making a lot of sense. I haven't used the truck in a couple days but have been thinking about this. You are correct- the bowls aren't dry since after it cools it fires right up without any cranking or touching the throttle. Since the carb has sight glasses it sounds like checking those after sitting hot for a bit is the next thing to do. I also still need to check the choke. I was hoping the 1" spacer would prevent this. Could the float be too high? Wondering if I should try premium for a few tanks to see if that has any impact.

I can picture it on our 94 and 96 7.3's but I'd like to see where it was installed also on the bullnose. On the fenders?

Remind me - do you have a separate amp or only the amp/sub combo? If the latter, at least with my kicker combo (which seems very similar to the retro sound) it's only 14awg for power/ground so the 10awg is plenty even with all 3 on there.

Good call. That's how I have my standalone amp grounded since it uses 8awg.

Yeah, that's what I am proposing (and kind of what I am doing in my truck). Forgo the wye and use the blue/white wire for a single relay trigger and then let that relay output handle both the power and the remote turn on of the sub. I think we need a diagram

So, once I figure out from the head unit manual if I can use the sub RCA jacks and the non-RCA speaker harness output I will have that all down. I'm using remote out to trigger the sub and the trucks side to trigger the relay (Econoline blower relay) to take constant -30A fused- power and send it to the sub. I'm bringing all grounds to a spot on the firewall (dash stay, I think) and going 10Ga. from there directly to where the battery grounds on the radiator support. The 10Ga. -fused- yellow cable will be attached to the Megafuse on the side of my little PDC. The relay will be somewhere behind the radio or ashtray. I also got all the Bricknose Ford mounting tabs attached to the head unit. I hope this makes sense. I guess I'll have pics later. Sounds good but not quite following this "trucks side to trigger the relay". If wanted, you could use the remote out to trigger the relay that then feeds both the power and remote in wires of the sub. Also, this thing fits nicely on the driver side dash support to provide more ground screws for the accessories. https://www.bluesea.com/products/2306/Common_100A_Mini_Grounding_BusBar_-_6_Gang

Good to know. Will the pressure gauge on my fuel log provide any indication of that being the cause?

I didn't think electric fuels pumps suffered from vapor lock? Also to note I have a 1" phenolic spacer under the carb.

Thanks Gary. Great idea - it could very well be the choke. I haven't messed with it much so will check it out. Now that you mention it, the truck did the same thing when working on the A/C and my neighbor mentioned something about it possibly needing adjustment. As is, when it finally catches there might be a little bit of a pop out the exhaust but otherwise it is good to go as soon as it fires. That single pop also occurs when cold starting so maybe that is an indicator of something? I'll try to get a recording of it this evening.

Ok, I kind of hate to post this as the internet is full of posts about restarting a 460 when hot but I figure if I have my own thread about it, it will prevent me from just living with it. Also most of the threads are about slow cranking which isn't my case. Rebuilt 460 Holley Quickfuel Slayer 600cfm carb New Odyssey battery (850 cca) All new 1/0 cables - Power and ground. Dedicated ground going to starter PMGR Starter: Powermaster XS Torque Starters 9505. Wrapped in a starter blanket Headers 1986 F250 with electric in-tank pumps Truck starts immediately when cold or after a short time shut off like filling up at a gas station. If I let it set though after being at normal operating temperature for a period of time [tonight it was around 40 minutes in Lowe's] I have to crank it for maybe 2 seconds before it fires. Usually on the first crank it sounds like it's going to catch but it never does (just gets my hope up). At that point I've stopped cranking since I thought it was going to start. I then have to crank again for the 2 seconds before it fires up and runs. It's not a slow cranking at all. It turns over smooth and fast; it just doesn't fire right off. I don't want to discount anything and happy to perform any tests but I feel pretty confident in the electrical components which leaves me with the carb/fuel. The coil and the pumps/relays are the only things that aren't new. It's probably not worth noting but the truck was kind of like this back when I first got it and before the restore/rebuild. It didn't seem to care about cold or hot starts back then though. If you missed the first fire then you had to crank it for a bit. I say 'not worth' because that was a different engine and carb as well as full emissions setup. The carb bowls have sight glasses and my fuel rail has a pressure gauge on it. One post I read mentioned the fuel expanding in the bowls so I will check that via the sight glasses the next time right after killing it and before starting it. Happy to provide any additional info and add more tests to the list.

I couldn't remember the exact details of your test so I didn't match the criteria very well. This was after a 30 minute drive home from a Lowe's run so: Idling in Park (~900 rpm) Fan on High in Vent Radio on Door open Hot side relay mod You are right in that it makes a huge difference where on the vent you measure. Since I figure all we care about is the fastest speed, I moved the anemometer around until I found the fastest speed for each vent. Driver-left: 1259 ft/min Driver-right: 1317 ft/min Passenger-left: 2115 ft/min Passenger-right: 1249 ft/min I had to get stuff unloaded as it started raining but I want to do the test again with all of the vents shut except the Passenger-left vent. So only measure that vent. We aren't really concerned with the spread but rather if the relay mods make a difference. I'll measure that vent with and without the relay mod. Mike - can you do the same? Also can you put yours in vent? Figure that will be a common setting that all users will have available if more want to post results.

Added some fuse panel options

No personal experience but reviews mentioning the waterproof aspect seem to lean towards the positive. I would ensure where the wires go in are satisfactorily sealed (since I didn't see a photo of that part) and use one. You could also mount it inside a weatherproof box like used for trailer wiring. At first blush though, I think I would extend the wires and put the relay with the others. That way you don't have to worry about water/stuff but mainly because that location makes more sense to me when doing future diagnostics.

I didn't see one online but did see this fuse buddy knockoff tester Nothing a multimeter can't do and doesn't help with the vent airflow test but still looks convenient in some situations.

I already devoured that thread. I can search the forum and find where the hot side test point was. *sigh* Mark Apologies if that came across the wrong way. That thread just has the diagrams in it and discussion to go with. The voltage test (Gary can confirm/deny this is where he measured his drop) should be done at the blower motor connector C603 connecting the positive wire there with the battery ground. That's as close as you can get to the motor as well as the most logical place (both in effectiveness and accessibility) to insert the relay. Is that what you are asking?

Is that hot side from the battery, relay, or elsewhere? “More” is a relative term. Before I cleaned everything up and swapped the evap I knew I needed more flow. Not anymore — this thing has plenty of flow. So it depends on where Dave (or anyone) is starting from. Mark We referenced it in another thread recently but check this thread out if you haven't yet. Good discussion about the mod. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Current-going-to-Blower-Motor-can-be-higher-than-Headlights-why-no-relay-mod-tp566.html