kramttocs

For the price that's not a bad option. I like the original design better but again, for the price...

Is the bezel available? I didn't think the drivers side one was anymore.

You must have added a photo of the wrong Bronco then That one looks like a great find. Really like that color combo. Welcome!

This is what I said earlier. The catalogs show two different ones for these trucks. 55782 (the correct one for yours as well as my 86) Liquid Line Without Orifice Tube; In Plant Charged System; Without Manual Shut-Off Valve At Compressor Orifice Tube Included: No 55882 Liquid Line Without Orifice Tube; Pre Charged System; With Manual Shut-Off Valve At Compressor Orifice Tube Included: No I knew the photos looked backwards (wasn't sure if I should add screenshots but decided against it) since mine has the manual shut off so that's why I had them order in both and matched mine against it. Worked behind the counter in high school and know it's a whole lot easier to order too much and return it than take a gamble. I really like RA but anytime I am ordering something like this online I look it up on at least two other sites and if there's even a chance something looks off, I deal locally.

I think that's an entirely valid stance. I will still do so but acknowledge it doesn't really benefit anything.

Looks like a winner to me I think they truly meant glove as singular for these trucks.

Having it in the lid of the pdb would be nice but if cutting it down doesn't work or makes it hard to read, having it in the glove box wouldn't be terrible. I wouldn't have guessed the laminated sheet would fold very well. I'd probably just leave it full size, unlaminated, and fold it up in the glove box in an envelope.

Plus by taking the time to address the frequent failure items now you are more likely to enjoy it uninterrupted in the future

Haha that's right! I felt like I'd had the discussion before I'd actually been changing them all out to pretty much 5's and 10's but then I got to wondering last night if there was any reason I shouldn't. I would say that me telling you that and you telling me that I told you that as well as now you telling me that it's ok is good enough for me. Even though the 30a fuse for the blower was just relocated, it does feel good to drop the in-cab one down significantly.

Yep, that's how I think I did the ground relay, and how I plan to do the power relay - with the exception that power will be from a fuse in the PDB and then from the battery. As for providing source, sink, etc, we'll get official schematics when we conclude. But I was just answering Scott's question of where I put the ground relay and thought I might as well show where I want to put the power relay. With such a drastic change in the amps going through the factory fuse box, what is the general thought on dropping the fuse rating? My fuse buddy circuit testers came in the other day so I was, primarily out of curiosity, going around and seeing what everything was pulling. Not surprisingly, with going to all led besides headlights, headlight relay mod, and this blower mod, all of the factory fuse sizes are way beyond the draw now. For the blower fuse it was around .10 amps no matter what speed. Expected since it's just pulling in a relay. When A/C is on and compressor engaged, since it goes through the same fuse, along with the fan it was around 4.6 amps fluctuating but never going over 5. I know you fuse for the wire but is there any reason to not reduce this fuse to a 10 instead of the 30?

I used https://www.circuitlab.com/ for that one. Just found it this morning. Had to sign up and it looks like you have to have a membership to save but for quick throwaway designs it's definitely one of the nicer ones I've found. Thanks a lot guys! That really simplifies it and saves a relay to boot.

Only using two would be great. I never think of using anything but a direct ground. So this?

Rusty and Jim's discussion in the alternator thread reminded me that I needed to improve my driving light situation. I purposefully wired the dls to be on their own circuit so I could turn them on any time regardless of ignition or headlight switch. But it only took one time driving at night to realize that meeting a car when popping over a hill and having to hit both the foot dimmer and the dl switch was a pain. The switches I am using in my control panel aren't offered in a 3 way config. How's the below look? Any improvements I can make on it? Goal is to let me manually control the dls but won't let them be on with the low beams.

Great! Glad to hear you got it sorted out.

Definitely no harm in building a better mousetrap (relevant pun intended), but the fender liner will take care of this. Plus, not a big deal if water gets splashed up there anyways as it will just come back down as intended. I guess I could see wanting to avoid potential winter salt water from getting in there but I really don't think it will get past the liner. Like Jim, I don't have mine installed but if you come up with a better design, might be interested.

Yes sir - an FS6.

And what do you do if you have a non-AC truck that don't have them metal plates as that is were the air comes in to vent the cab? Yes I did have water come in when driving the truck during a heavy rain. It was before I had working AC and had to have the vents open, windows cracked and defrost on to clear the windshield. Dave ---- Those manual vents have a trough on the top to redirect the water so it's not running against the bottom lip like it does with the flat close-off panels. If they are leaking I would check the sealing gasket otherwise it may be unavoidable. Combine air coming in with water passing over and around the opening and it's very likely there will be some moisture making its way in. But that should be through the vents and not around it.

Great info Dave. Bet it sounds like a completely different truck inside cruising at 65 with the OD on.

That's where C121 comes in. I put it second since I would rather do the cross member plug as, in my experience, it comes apart easier without wishing for another set of hands. Absolutely. This is where I like disconnecting connectors and leaving them unconnected until resolution even if they had no impact.

Great info Steve. Ran into the same confusion with the valve when changing out mine. Glad to know leaving it out was the right choice When I had my line ordered in there were two options - one for systems with a manual shutoff at the compressor and one without. Mine has the shut off but we went ahead and ordered both in. If I recall correctly there was a difference in thread sizes.

Genuinely interested in the responses you get on this Jim. I am no audiophile but enjoy the theory and discussion of this stuff. Did some research and talking to some local audio shops (getting to be fewer and fewer around here) when planning out my truck. What I pieced together was having them close but the amp being a little more was good. This avoids clipping but you do run the risk of blowing the speakers if you 'turn it to 11'. For instance my speakers are 100RMS and my amp is 125RMS per bridged channel. Each speaker is on its own channel from the amp.

Happy to help! We are getting definitely getting closer. Here are just some thoughts and how I would go about it. Others may have more efficient ways. No cab marker lamps so that can be ruled out No body marker lamps so that can be ruled out Trailer package? The front side markers and parking lamps are continuous so I would twist the sockets out of the lenses and inspect. Follow the wiring on either side back to the firewall and inspect the whole way. Disconnect C1002 at the rear crossmember. This will eliminate the rear parking lamps and license plate lamps. Watch your knuckles when pulling this connector apart. Test after doing this. If the fuse blew, disconnect C121 below the brake booster to eliminate the entire rear circuit. Test after doing this. If the fuse blew even with C121 disconnected then it's back to the front side and parking lamp circuit which involves inspecting under the dash since the passenger side wiring crosses over inside the cab The buzzer circuit is also part of this but I would think it the least likely cause My gut feeling, just because there has already been one issue at the rear taillights, is that disconnecting C1002 will prevent the fuse from blowing at which time you can pull the taillights and inspect. You don't have to disconnect if you would prefer to pull the taillight housings instead and inspect.

Is your headlight switch 'dimmer' in the dome on position? In other words is it rotated counter clockwise past the click? If it is, rotate it clockwise to get it out of there. That will rule out that circuit. Did it also blow fuse 17 (if the headlight switch is pulled out)? Or did 4 blow even with the headlight switch completely off and not in the dome position?

With the light switch you have 3 circuits coming in and 4 going out. 1. (B) this is the headlight circuit coming from the fusible links (hot at all times). It goes out via H 2. (A) this is the parking lamp and instrument illumination circuit coming in from fuse 4 (hot at all times). It goes out via R or I. R goes to the parking lamps and I goes to fuse 17 and then to the instrument illumination. 3. (D1) this is the dome/courtesy/cargo circuit coming in from fuse 8 (hot at all times). It goes out via D2 to the various dome, map, cargo, etc.