kramttocs

Welcome! Great looking truck and color combo. Jealous of the dovetail flatbed

That's exactly what I needed. Will figure something out or just leave it off.

Thank you

Much appreciated Gary! I couldn't find anything on mine either. I think it's flipped though: Main: bottom. It steps down and is angled toward the fender Aux: top. It steps up Last question for you and them I may just make a z brace like the 1980. Could you take a photo a little further back showing the back(core support) edge? Wondering if I should just expect to angle it more than I am.

Thanks David. That is the RH/Main battery one. I need a mirror image of that After seeing the photo from NOS Parts it has to be something with my setup.

They did have it and were nice enough to send me some photos. Unfortunately it looks the same as mine. I guess the one I have and Gary's are the same and maybe Gary's is slanted in the slots (the edge you can't see). That's my only idea. I'll put some clips in the core support and see if slanting it is the solution.

And they don't even show it

That spacer with the port is neat!

Thanks guys. Jim - you are right, that could absolutely be done. Unfortunately the crookedness would drive me crazy

Thanks! Left them a message. I found the 1980 one on there but somehow missed the 81

That is neat! For a 6.9 fan would be a nice item to use or display.

Update: the two brackets are the same. I thought there was a slight angle mine didn't have but when comparing the photos more closely that isn't the case. Looking for this bracket. Pic of Gary's (the one I need): vs the one I have that is wrong: This is the 1980 style (Z bracket): But I am wanting the 81/on style like Gary has. Thanks!

It is on the way to you!

Did some 3d printing work this weekend that I'd been putting off. Finally finished the radio bezel trim ring to go around the head unit. Tried to make it look as close to the factory design as possible. Then worked out the ring to go around the aux battery so the stock holddown would fit it. Did find out that I have the wrong core support bracket though so on the lookout for the right one.

I already had the headlight doors on and then put the grille on, but when I got to the upper and lower trim I learned all of that had to come off. Anyway, it is now on. I'll probably pull it off later to paint it, but hopefully I'll remember that order so it'll be easier. Great! Really like that bumper. It's no wonder why a lot of the headlight bezels have broken tabs by now, right? It may just be the angle but do you have those black plastic strips that go between the fender and the headlight bezel? Not sure what purpose they serve beyond aesthetics.

Perfect. Thanks!

Thanks but what about the side against the core support? The one with the triangle bracket. Is it not using the slot also? Wasn't sure if that flat stock went all the way underneath to 'sandwich' the battery.

Hey Gary - was working on my aux holddown, ran into an issue, so went back and looked at yours (replying to the post in question). The triangle piece that goes from the core support to the j-bolt. Does that j-bolt hook into the factory slot in the tray (I know the back one is moved over)? In other words, if you were to look down through the j-bolt hole in the triangle piece does it line up with the tray slot? Mine doesn't but the triangle piece I pulled from a diesel for the aux battery doesn't look quite the same as yours. (Sorry, don't want to derail from the CB topic so happy to move this to the Camano thread)

Curious on that as well. Are you going real deep in the column or just replacing the switch? If the former, Gary has the manual here and there is a tab with my assembly instructions if helpful. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/steering-columns1.html

I am not sure on the spring pin difference but when it comes to electrical pieces, if I see the 'Standard' brand I usually go with it. No experience with She-Marr.

I reinstalled mine after doing a restore on the column so full disclosure that it was on the table and no contortions required but I it really shouldn't be bad. I wouldn't bother splicing the wires. No doubt there is a guide somewhere but just going over it mentally, here is how I'd go about it: 1. Unhook battery 2. Remove the connector at the base of the column from that little standoff piece that holds it to the ignition switch (not to be confused with the key/tumbler near the wheel at the top of the column) 3. Disconnect the connector from the truck harness 4. Cut the wires (assuming no need to save them) 5. Tape the ends together with a string on them 6. Remove steering wheel, remove screws for the switch and pull the switch out and thus the wiring/string also 7. Remove the string but don't let it fall back down 8. On the new switch, make notes/photos of the wiring order in the connector. If the colors match the old, now amputated connector you can just use it for reference 9. Remove the red retainer in the connector and pull all the wires/terminals out by prying the locking tab away with a small flat screwdriver 10. Tape the wires all together along with the string 11. Feed/Pull the wires along the same path as the string until the switch is seated 12. Reinstall the screws for the switch 13. Reinstall the connector at the bottom according to your notes/photos 14. Connect the connector to the truck harness and remount on the standoff 15. Finish up installing the steering wheel (loosely until confirmed working), reconnect battery, test Anyone feel free to correct something I may have left out/overlooked/misremembered. I do like Steve's disassembly approach better though- would save a lot of steps

You bet! So you only need the rear bracket and not the front (the one Dave is showing with the square hole)? Email me your address and I'll get it on its way.

The first relationship is the fuse so I'd check that to ensure it's good. The second is the Hazard/Turn Signal Switch. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/turn-stop--hazard-lamps.html I am going to assume the parts guy was purely looking at the number on the yours and not using logic. You just need a round, 2 pin flasher. For example: Standard EFL552 If you are going to leds you'll need one like United Pacific LED Flashers 90650

Oh no, I am just kidding. The normal Sterling diff cover does take a gasket (or can use a gasket maker like Jim). The Banks one takes an O-Ring which I've never seen before on the Sterling diff covers I've looked at. Since it's newfangled like that, I just had to throw in the Fletch line

Gasket? It's all ball bearings...err o-rings nowadays. So you're basically saving money by not needing to buy a gasket You are absolutely right - the man makes great videos.