kramttocs

Thanks Jonathan. Here is the 3M offering next to untouched Ford Rosewood. You can see there is a noticeable difference in reds vs browns and the sharpness of the grain. The 3M doesn't have near the black contrasting lines. Inside the truck it's passable to the point I don't think about it but that is entirely due to them not being in this level of proximity. If changing the dash bezels it would be an all or none situation to me. The edges around the cup holder holes are still stuck very well so I still think something like this is an option if someone has a sharp xacto knife and patience. I just now ordered the middle one David found although it won't be here anytime soon.

Unfortunately not, they are thin aluminum over press board. That photo is perfect. I had no idea they were that different. Also, if you get a chance - can you check out my question here? Seems like it might be something you know about.

There is a noticeable thickness to the 3m offering. The rosewood does have the raised texture feel. You are right - the stuff on them now just flakes off when it starts and it is very thin. Anyone here know the process that was used back then? Googled and looks like hydrodipping would have been too new at the time (patent 1982?).

Thank you Gary

Thanks - great info and photos. I was assuming the aluminum were a single solid piece.

I am happy with it but tomorrow or this weekend I will unbox a stored Rosewood bezel and take a photo next to the console lid. I clear coated the ones in my truck so they won't be a great comparison for others to go off of.

Welcome!

And here are your pics, although they are just screenshots as FTE doesn't allow you to link to the pics, so the quality may not be as good as the originals. Rodger - that looks excellent! So the only thing you did to the truck metal was install the rivnuts/nutserts? It was the mounting bracket on the handle you reshaped? Or do I have that backwards?

They definitely didn't design them to be removed and reinstalled easily. Shaun - was it you that had the aluminum ones? Assume those survived better? I really like these panels but like the ones in the listing, it's hard to find them where the crank hasn't dug into them.

Grunching. Now that's a word that you can't help but hear in your head. Nice job on finding it! And glad the fix didn't require too much disassembly.

Coincidentally, I upgraded to Cura this morning. I had been using the Creality Slicer that came with the printer, but that's just a reskin of an older version of Cura. Straight Cura seems to expose a lot more options, so I'll be sticking with that going forward. As for the bed, I'm not entirely clear on what I have - it's the default bed that comes with the printer. You can see a good view of it at the top of this thread, it's black, slightly rough, and everything REALLY sticks to it. My biggest issue is getting things off of it without damaging the item or the bed. Three rolls seems like a lot of material, at least to me as a newbie. What do you do with your printer that you go through so much? If it has a texture, it sounds like the one mine came with. I actually used it for quite awhile and had mixed results on flat pieces but if you are having good luck with it, I'd stick with it. It seems like each machine, even the same model, behave differently in some aspects. Environmental factors like humidity and ambient temp may play into it a lot. Overnight my magnetic bed just wouldn't get good adhesion. Since the 'kit' came with the glass bed I installed it rather than troubleshooting/cleaning and so far so good. It looks like you already have the good tubing and feeder. I don't know how much others normally use either but this usage is definitely abnormal for me. I just happened to stumble across a design on thingiverse at the same time I was cleaning out our wellhouse and it snowballed from there. Been printing out these chainable aerosol can hooks nonstop Really looking forward to what you guys make with yours. I was thinking on your case - would panel mount connectors (like molex) work for the wiring penetrations?

Nice! This is the one I bought for my console top: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-DI-NOC-ROSEWOOD-Wood-Grain-Vinyl-Wrap-Sheet-Film-Sticker-Decal-Roll-Adhesive/182698783881?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (was $25 for 4x1 at the time) I know there has been talk of pre-cut and dipping but until then, seems like this could be a valid option. Especially on the cluster and radio bezels where the edges could sit flat as opposed to rounded over like the horn.

Does the ranger have an overhead console?

Hey Angelo - are you ok with this being moved into the Marketplace section?

Hey Chad. I've moved this to the Marketplace section. Please let me know if you have any concerns with me doing so.

I'm using SolidWorks (one of the perks of being a mentor for the HS robotics team - free SolidWorks, a $3,995 value) for CAD, so I can definitely design a thread into the standoffs. Given the small size of the screws in question (#4-40), I'm not sure the printer can print meaningful threads. Right now I'm using four random mismatched screws from my jar of loose screws, so I just let them tap themselves into the holes. I may put threads in there next time, just to see if the printer can do it. Looking great! Are you using Cura? The granularity it has is impressive - infill, line count/thickness, first layer settings, etc I haven't tried any other slicers. Do you have the magnetic or glass bed? Haven't kept up with the various v2 changes but my Ender 3 Pro came with a magnetic and the glass bed was hands down the best upgrade. Used to have lifting issues every now and then with the magnetic bed but I've gone through 3 rolls of PLA in the past 2 weeks on glass and no adhesion issues at all. Still trying to get the hang of ABS... I've found that using a tap works really well. I didn't have much luck with printing the threads and those weren't even as small as you were doing.

Agreed - they pop out pretty easy. The last one I did I just ran my knife along the inside, removing the weatherstripping lip.

---- That button is the (from manual): Ignition Key Release Button (Manual Transmission) - Push ignition key release button to move the ignition lock cylinder to LOCK (to remove the key) or to ACC (Accessory) ---- My grandfathers 85 still has it but it was removed by a PO on my 80.

No, they can be replaced. Still, like you and David both said - good thing to grab. Better to do it sooner than later as with no hood (or even with one it's left up in most jy), they don't survive long in the sun.

Quite the pile and that screwdriver looks very handy. Haven't seen that kind of ratcheting T handle design. Another thing I like to grab are connectors if they don't look too brittle. Cut a few inches of wire along with it and that gives you a second chance if you are ever working on yours and the latching tabs break. Doesn't really help the next jy guy that might be looking for a harness though...

Nice! What I can see from the door panel on the pass side, it looks pretty good. That button is the (from manual): Ignition Key Release Button (Manual Transmission) - Push ignition key release button to move the ignition lock cylinder to LOCK (to remove the key) or to ACC (Accessory)

I don't know Gary....seems like I've heard those fail at absolutely the worst times

The ground you are referring to is likely for the dome lights. In the pickups there is a ground that screws to the B pillar for that harness. Ok, so no buzzer. In that case we can ignore the connector at the base of the seatbelt (the flat-ish 2 wire you found recently). That circuit is just for the buzzer. I.E the light and buzzer are somewhat separate although both are tied to the timer. The light comes on regardless of the seatbelt connected status and according to the EVTM is lit for 4-8 seconds. I know the dash indicator lights changed positions between some configs but I don't if the seatbelt one did. Just mentioning that as a potential gotcha. First, I would disconnect the buzzer from its connector (located above the glovebox) and see if the light goes off. If so, it may be an issue with the timer inside the buzzer unit.

Received word through a mutual acquaintance that Jim is OK

Will do but honestly, if you are set on replacing the whole harness, you'd be ahead to find a cheap truck locally. Not sure if you've already gathered your 4wd parts but if not you could get everything from a single truck. Not trying to be discouraging, just throwing out another option.