kramttocs

I know I downright mangled the first one of those clips I pulled out. With the second one I might have pushed in on the clip while pulling it out? Edit: incorrectly said 'cable' vs 'clip'

That's neat. Never knew there was an air leveling kit from the factory. So looks like the spring takes care of F250/350 4wd's and the Leveler Kit covers the rest. Makes sense. Not the right gen/decade/models but posting anyways: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-FORD-C6TZ-5A589-A-1966-TRUCK-AUXILIARY-AIR-SPRING-/283957318251 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1968-1972-FORD-TORINO-THUNDERBIRD-GALAXIE-AIR-LEVELER-KIT-C8AZ-5A589-A-/283893163010

I agree Myrl. I really like it. Builder did a really nice job.

David found this awhile back: https://www.ebay.com/itm/EOTZ-5B302-A-FORD-OEM-FRONT-SUSPENSION-ADDED-LEAF-SPRING-KIT/254583965317 They have a photo of the TSB 96-23-16 in the listing. That's the only thing I've seen beyond the different size blocks that came dependent upon the truck config.

I missed what exactly you are sticking up there and sounds like you already have a plan but this stuff works great for under the headliner. Really light and once it's stuck you have to tear and scrape it off.

I have heard this from other sources but don’t understand why it is the case. Any chance you can help fill in the gap for me please? Can't speak to if it's a valid concern or coincidental but I've always heard that since the flush sends the fluid backwards it can push pieces out of the filter and into places they don't belong. Also something about removing beneficial buildup but don't recall the specifics of that.

I use the yellow HF set of wedge tools a lot for stuff like this but on these metal pieces you can typically work your fingers behind them and pop the retainers out of the slots. On the front and rear start at one end and work your way across to avoid bending anything. It would take some effort to really damage them.

Nope, not at all to either Just wanted to make sure it got there.

Realized I never followed up on this - Gary, did that envelope arrive awhile back?

Potato Patato? Totally wrong thread I know but whatever happened with your GVR wiring?

I had to google it so I won't even act like I knew off the top of my head He had mentioned Nick making a module that was 'smarter' than the typical keyless entry options available and it sounded interesting. Wanted to pick his brain on it and he posted a short reply but then it disappeared.

If you're hallucinating, we're in this together. Same thing happened earlier with a response he made in the Keyless Entry thread. I was interested to delve more into what he was talking about but then the post disappeared.

Looks really nice

And absolutely nothing to do with not being able to hear sirens

It just took me a little while to see the wisdom of your ways I still don't really get why my module was unable to pull the factory relay in so this may just be a situation where mine is weak and no one else will run into this. For anyone else that does this in the future I would first try the horn output of your module with the trigger terminal on the factory relay to see if it can pull it in fully so that it actually honks vs just grunting a little.

Hey ratdude - would like to ask you some questions about your Torque setup. Posting here in your new member thread since I am unable to start a new thread and target you directly. More than happy to move it into a new thread dedicated to it. Just let me know if you're game. If so, I'll create one and then email you the link to it.

I don't think Viper supports DIY installations so their very vague and incomplete instructions are likely intended to push the buyer to have them installed by a shop. I've haven't seen any that work like that (auto lock after ignition OFF) although seems likely to exists but mine is configurable via dipswitches so that it can lock after you turn on the ignition or unlock after you turn it off - this has gotten me a number of times when starting the truck with the door open and then stepping out and shutting the door to monitor something on the engine. So I can definitely imagine the pain of having it autolock after ignition off without the ability to disable that feature. Curious on the bolded part. Wouldn't the door be unlocked via the normal hardware by opening it? What about using the 'key in ignition' factory circuit in your 86 to prevent them from locking?

Gary and I had talked about various options for the horn relay since the keyless entry I am using can't seem to pull in the factory relay. At the time I opted to keep the factory relay and add in my own for the keyless entry/alarm (see a few posts above this). Have since agreed that having two relays is unnecessary so have removed the factory relay as well as the associated short harness/connector from the speed control harness. Not a big or important change but just wanted to add my crudely drawn diagram here in case it helps anyone in the future. This is with me using a relay in the engine bay because that is where my ssVEC is. As Gary mentioned, a possibly easier way is to just replace the factory relay with a bosch style one if you are also finding that your keyless entry/alarm can't pull it in.

I see - all depends upon what engine you choose. Out of habit I always choose the 7.5 which gives you both options. Choosing the 4.9 (still 86 either 150 or 250) it only shows the 55882.

Very cool. The Hot Butter one is a blast.

I got the Four Seasons 55782 from Partsgeek. It’s listed for my ‘84 but for no orifice tube and no shutoff at the compressor, but I ordered it anyway and it fit perfectly. Of course my truck has an orifice tube and a shutoff at the compressor. Mark Thanks Mark. Seems like they are definitely wrong with the manual shut-off description. For the 'Without Orifice Tube' I don't know if they mean no orifice tube in the system (which as you said is wrong) or if they just mean it doesn't come with one. Eh, either way it's misleading.

There's definitely a spot you can get it in where the door doesn't open as you found out. I got bit by that a couple times when adjusting mine.

With the door panel off you can get an extension and adjust the striker through the latch.

The design of the Mustang ones look really good. I agree - I think I've seen people on FTE use those but in chrome. George - do you have a link for the $60 drivers bezel you found? Was it new repro or eBay?

Hey Dan, Are you only selling as a whole package? Do you have prices you want to list or prefer to be contacted privately about that?