kramttocs

Yes, congrats! I agree in having it all done at the same place with the exception of the bedliner. Go to a dedicated installer for that. My vote would be yes on the matched bedliner. Some colors I'd say no but I think red on a mainly solid red truck looks great. Never had a color matched one personally though aside from what is inside the cowl trough. Just my opinion. On the removal/masking, my advice would be anything you want removed - do it yourself before hand.

Nicely done!

Josh, the green wire just provides a signal to the tachometer. The tachometer must have 12 volts, so I am wondering if the 12 volts is "missing" since your instrument panel lights also do not work unless you use a jump wire? Since you have the instrument cluster out, why not try an experiment to check the function of the tachometer. You can do this without removing the tachometer, but it might be easier/safer to remove the tachometer. On the back of the tachometer, you will find four posts. Using small jumper wires, connect the HEI tach output wire to the "C" terminal. Ground the "G" terminal if your engine is a 6 cylinder [and ground the "8" terminal, too, if an 8 cylinder]. Finally, connect 12 volts to the "B" terminal and start the engine. If the tachometer works, you must have an electrical fault [power or ground] involving the instrument cluster. Give fuses 17 and 18 (vertically inline under the flasher) a look also. 17 is the illumination, 18 the tach.

Excellent! Glad to hear they were cool with it.

Odd that the relay is right by the switch. I would have expected Ford to place the relay in the same area as the trailer, fuel pump, etc relays there near the cruise control mount.

They have it in the description: "It was pulled from a 85 Ford Van" But I wish they'd have put it in the Title so buyers are given a little more of a heads up...

Oh man. That's a definite unexpected inconvenience. It's a tough call - my first thought was with Ray in that it could be fixed but don't forget that the warranty is a big plus for going with the Champion name. Even if you can fix this, you run the risk that if something in the future comes up and if they are real sticklers, they might consider this tampering. At the very least I'd reach out to Champion to explain the situation.

Gotcha. No, doesn't seem to impact the angle much more than without. The box didn't yield anything identifying beyond a serial number. With a little eBay searching, found that they (both box and sensor) very closely match those in Ford speed control kits for mid 80's cars (crown Vic, ltd, escort, lynx).

What are you wanting to do with two batteries? Gary and I use a Cole Hersee smart isolator. If you want automated with a minimal footprint, that's a decent option. The larger gauge alt cable is good (should have a fuse though). You are likely right with the cab feed coming from somewhere else. You may still lose the ammeter though if you disconnect c610. Are you going 3G or sticking with this alt?

Thanks Jim. Went back to page 3 and caught back up.

That referenced thread is a good read. If talking about off the shelf halogens like Dave is referring to, the 86 came with Silverstars put on not long before I bought it. Really liked them as they were really bright and I like the whiter beam. But, as is common with these, they burned out quickly. I ended up replacing them with ultravisions as more of a longevity compromise. Not as bright and more yellow so I won't say I like them as much but just hoping they last linger to make up for it. I would be all for another option but since the headlights are such a prominent visual on these trucks they need to look like factory for me to bite.

The wires that used to connect to the mega alternator ( hinted at previously) are found severed You may have already covered this but 'used to'? Or used to connect to the factory alt before the new mega one was added that went directly to the battery switch?

Exciting news on the newer F150! No, the factory (key word here) cruise control isn't hacked or spliced in. The 86 should have the vss down at the transmission. I think the photo may not be showing the cut part. That thicker yellow wire is the primary cab power source. C610 will be a good connector to get familiar with and understand. See here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/charge--power-distribution---gasoline-engines.html

Looks great! Dave - there are two 'batwing' brackets. A front and back.

Huh, look at that. Wonder where they found that one.

Very neat! Definitely not something you see everyday - especially with even part of the harness. That appears to have been one well optioned bronco. Really like the color/design of those seats.

Welcome! Agree with Gary - looks right. Your local auto parts should have one on hand also. Last time I did it the core was $5. Curious -does yours say Made In USA on it?

Oh, sorry about that - I see you said it was the map light now Speaking of those lights, I seem to recall someone saying they pulled them out and replaced with bulbed LEDs that worked. Will await the email

Just read that thread now. Liked the can opener bit Interesting stuff. Nice work on the radio restore listed earlier in this thread!

Really neat thread and those referenced videos are crazy! I don't know though. I don't see Ford doing that to the doors but Brutus does have some unique options. On the lower panels, how does that cutout look?

Perhaps the A pillar trim was accidentally glued in by a previous windshield replacement? For the lens, even if it hadn't gone wrong, I'd consider the clear option that you can get on eBay. It (and the led...) really helped light up my supercab. They aren't perfect though and required a bit of xacto knife work. Or a dremel Also, if you want to stick with the original light let me know. As Gary said, a lot of them are pitted so I try to pick up nice jy ones when I see them and can look in my totes.

Unfortunately the only thing I found on the sender was an ink stamping of Jun 93. Going to take a quick trip back to the jy in the morning so will see if the speed control brain has anything on it. Jim - Surprisingly there is a decent amount of room back there so this doesn't make the bend much more than it was already. Removed the original signal generator wire and wired up the new one - went from a 10' run to under 6". Then called speedometerscableusa with the specs of the new jumper so that should be shipped out Monday.

Can never be too cautious Even if there is a chance of it being used it looks like it would be a great replacement for a rough one. Shame it's non-AC. The colors on these early styles seem to hold up a lot better than the later 'wedge' ones.

I don't know anything about gmrs and such but if that is the top tier unit and checks all the other boxes, what about using the external option? ------- Using an External Speaker The MXT400 provides a rear-panel jack for connection of an optional external speaker (sold separately). When selecting an external speaker, ensure the speaker has 8-ohm impedance and is rated for 4.0 watts. NOTE: When an external speaker is connected, the radio’s internal speaker is automatically disabled. -------

I am using these: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/courtesy-light-bulb/67-led-light-bulb-12-smd-led-tower-ba15s-base/3698/?year=1986&make=28&model=796&scc_id=1452 I originally had some generic ones in there that flickered a lot. Very happy with these. They look a lot better than the exposed ones also since these have the dome/cover on them.