kramttocs

The headlights are fed via fuse links. How does fuse 4 look?

Bad deal on the links Handle looks great though!

Hey Christian, 17 gets power from the main light switch. Have you checked it with the the headlights on? You are correct - "main light switch" is the one you pull the knob out to engage. Or twist for dome. Next to the wiper switch.

My 86 is currently like the one you did at work since I picked up some nos chrome/black headlight bezels but haven't done much looking for a matching grill yet nor have I worked up the patience to tape and paint mine. I don't really notice it but now I might. I don't know that I've ever seen a body colored core support in person. I feel like there was some discussion awhile back that they were plant specific? Or maybe that was just the grey vs black? Rick - the LARIAT looks good!

Haha now I know it will sound like I am defending Powermaster To be fair though disliking a vendor because they don't provide a product you are looking for is entirely different than disliking them because they offer substandard products, have terrible customer service, or have less than honest intentions. I'd reach out to them if you think there would be demand for such an animal. The tech guys I've talked to have been really helpful. Sorry, my fault for derailing the thread.

I like the chrome with the black secondary also. Adds a nice depth to it all. Same reason I like the black core supports over the grey.

Thanks Gary! This I completely get and it's more of a configuration avoidance than a vendor. Smart and something everyone should at least be aware of when making changes. While I like the 1 wire I have - it's no secret the 1 wire has it's cons - l only went that way since I found it NIB really cheap locally. I also purposely kept the intact 2G harness that I can take on long trips and swap into C610 in an emergency.

Jim- I don't really have a horse in this race. I typically stick with a stock, off the shelf setup. I was just doing exactly this: I wouldn't have said anything except that Rusty brought up the 150A threshold which as mentioned is what I kept finding outside of forums. And so far the setup is working for me. I don't think I've seen Ryan's test but I am not questioning them, in the same way I am not questioning Gary's powermaster experience. Is it my experience? No. Will it be my experience the next time I fire up the truck? Maybe, who knows. I am not trying to peddle Powermaster or get their name tattooed in a heart on my arm but since you brought it up and seem to have a negative opinion of them I wouldn't mind getting more details on it. If I recall correctly the one on BB had a bad bearing when Gary got it. Gary is there more to it that I don't know? I wouldn't think an alternator with a bad bearing is enough to swear them off. Maybe we should add them to the Vendor ratings thread?

I was grinning like a fool as soon as I read the title. Didn't expect it to actually sound that good either. No kidding - I remember buying some hacked up usb connector for my first cell phone to make it have ringtones that sounded worse than that. I likely wouldn't keep it long (kind of like how using a song as an alarm ruins the song) but it would be fun to have.

I don't think anyone will fault you for being cautious. I kept coming across that 90-100 limit when I was doing the research a year and a half ago also but all the manufacturers I spoke to stated higher (while some didn't give an exact number). I won't say that in some cases, possibly due to belt or pulley condition, that lower limit isn't a good reference. I can only go off what I was told - no personal experience as my other trucks and Mustang are still running 1g's and are pretty bare bones in the electronic department. Dropping the fuse down sounds like a great fail-safe to me. In fact I should do that as well since I have a 175 in mine also.

For those interested in a comparison (not my video): I do find it funny that the guy doing the video, at the beginning, states that he likes the buzzer for the same reason a lot of us have mentioned here before: sentimentality.

Just been following along (interesting read) but since you brought it up the 150 rule is what I based my decision on. I am running a 150 amp alternator with a single vbelt and haven't had any noise or slippage. Powermaster told me 150 was perfectly fine with a single v and I figured they should know. All because as Jim said - it's how much is asked of it. If anything ever changes, will cross that bridge and worry about it at that time.

I am going to say I am optimistically cautious (cautiously optimistic?) on this. Unless I am downright treated poorly and/or scammed, I chalk a lot of things up to human error or beyond the control or knowledge of the seller. I like that users can change their rating if the situation changes. For example, with the information provided I would consider Rusty's experience a positive one in the end. They offered photos up front and they made it right. To me that's a good seller and doesn't sound like someone trying to pawn a bad part off. Who knows if they had a new hire pulling parts who had no idea what the part should look or function like. That's a situation where as long as they work with me on the resolution, I would buy from them again. My personal lessons learned have driven home the importance of photos and knowing that no one cares about your vehicle like you do. Rusty - please don't think I am discounting your situation. It's just the example readily at hand Update: I meant to add - if there was ever a forum where something like this will work and help out the greater good, this is it.

The first one looks good as a package. Someone took the time to do it well. Second one not a fan of.

If you find bags of money there OR come up with a way to make money from what is normally found behind those covers you will have a lot of new best friends It's definitely recommended to pull those covers and clear out the gunk that has accumulated over the years from falling through the cowl slots. Not only for moisture concerns but also because it can pile up enough to get pulled into the fan and sit against the resistor which has often been a cause for smoke and a possible fire. Underneath the likely gunk you'll find there is a duck bill drain plug you will want to ensure is clean. Some people remove them completely. I've always heard they are there to keep rodents out but maybe in your case they are keeping the rodents in? On the A/C, I am also no expert and have only recently messed with it but I would consider replacing the dryer/accumulator and the orifice tube. Pulling the orifice tube will give you a decent idea of what kind of shape the system is in. All together I think these two pieces are under $30.

I am just saying from the factory the early (no emblem) grille had hood letters, and the later grille had a naked hood. But can be interchanged if desired. You are right - with the different primary and secondary colors on the bezels/grill it can really change the look of the front end.

They are. Only difference is the design (which goes hand in hand with FORD on the hood).

Yep, no stranger to those spider legs. They can be a real bear to get out with the engine still in the truck. I never tried to plug mine as I went to headers but having that part number for the plugs will be handy. I added the part about the back of the heads since that typically follows in the de-smogging process

Yep - they have button snaps and you screw the button stud to the headlight bezels and top/bottom pieces. Basically the snaps border outside the grill. Which again, is fine from a functionality standpoint. I just don't want to drill into those pieces and would rather just have the cover snap onto the grill itself so that you could have a winter and summer grill. Purely a cosmetic concern.

Sounds about right for something that comes from 'that'. JW - if you get a chance, add a photo of the front of that console. I think both Jim and I would enjoy seeing it.

What about this, Scott? Black Ivory Coffee is a brand of coffee produced by the Black Ivory Coffee Company Ltd in northern Thailand from Arabica coffee beans consumed by elephants and collected from their waste. The taste of Black Ivory coffee is influenced by elephants' digestive enzymes, which breaks down the coffee's protein. Oct 18 2019 https://www.amazon.com/Black-Ivory-Coffee-Expensive-Naturally/dp/B01KOZ1YV4 That's a new one also (had heard similar about some jungle cats awhile back). I would say I have a never-before-realized stance against anything that has its taste enhanced by an animals saliva or digestive enzymes but I guess you can't knock it 'til you try it.

I hadn't although google tells me: "These nests are actually made out of bird saliva, which has dried and hardened. That's right; when you're eating a bowl of bird's nest soup, you're having a bowl of spit (and other ingredients)." and "resulting in a single bowl of soup that will set you back anywhere from $30 to $100" Learn something new (and something to be avoided ) everyday.

I would bet on it being a dual battery setup. The factory aux bracket doesn't tie into the drivers side fender liner but can't say for sure that's the case in an ambulance. I didn't say the parts removed would be in good shape, I just said it doesn't take a lot to remove the liners

Yep - the battery tray is the most involved item that is tied to the liner but even it isn't bad unless rusted in place. Also, not unusual for the bolts that hold the module to snap off so I'd spray everything down and give it time to soak in before going at it.