kramttocs

I second the Odyssey's. I went with two of the 34-PC1500 in typical and reverse post for my primary and aux. Based on Gary's recommendation and the great pre-purchase support I received. Printed out simple spacers that snap into the factory hold downs and am happy to share those. Have been very happy with the batteries so far.

Not all of these will work for everyone for various reasons but here are some I've seen or done that I thought were clever and can be made to look good. Like Gary's center bezel. 1. Replace radio with a radio delete/blank bezel and add gauges there 2. Put an a/c dash in a non-a/c truck and use the vents to hold switches and gauges 3. Replace the tach placeholder with gauges 4. Install gauge pods on the dash pad using similar material as the pad 5. A-pillar pods - tough to make look good when using those made for later years but 3D printing is affordable now 6. Add an interface to convert sensor(s) output to Torque (android app). OK, haven't seen this one but want it 3D printing really does open a world of possibilities if one is so inclined.

Glad to hear it! If you come up with good uses for them or other locations like this, let us know.

Wow! Would like to know the plans for that truck.

Is that the 450 you parted? I am curious about the history of his truck and how/why an 86 F250 4wd came to have that ratio as 4.10 is the highest I thought Ford offered then.

The anode is to protect the aluminum radiator and intake. Is it needed? I really don't know but with it being in the cap it doesn't (well, shouldn't) provide an inconvenience and is cheap insurance. Before looking any further into using that lower port I removed the cap and bent the ears a little so it was a tighter fit. I think that did it but will know for sure after a drive tomorrow. My brief thought process was to shove an aluminum rod in there all the way to the other side of the neck that would be held in place with a cap over the end of the port (like is there now). Then hang the anode off that rod, suspended out in the middle just like it does when coming off the cap. I believe the anode is hooked to a rubber coated loop on the radiator cap so something similar would need done. Hopefully just bending the tabs was enough. I am with you Jim - that port is a nuisance. I don't like relying on just a clamped on cap and the epoxy route is appealing. Gary - I looked at mine and agree - doesn't look like a good candidate for a threads. Shame as that would be ideal. Dave - here is the controller Definitely a deviation from the normal style. The harness of interest is the center one that has a dial and push button. Right now with the custom dash panel in the dash bezel cubby I have to fish that dial/button through and it's a pain. The led is already in a connector so I want to cut those other 4 wires and put them in the same connector. I was hoping it wasn't a problem but wanted to "ask twice and cut once" Jim - sign me up as a member of the anti-scotch-locs team. It would have to be a really, really special use case for me to consider them but I've heard good things about the Posi-taps. Took me a long time with the weather but finally got the trailer wiring finished. This included replacing two of the three center running lights on the back with backup lights. Really happy with how they turned out. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MCWMK9G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . The lights aren't anything really special but I needed something that would fit in the same hole as the current lights and these did that. Now I've got the 80 1 ton loaded up to get the driveshaft figured out tomorrow morning. 100 mile round trip which I need to get some runtime on the Thermocure.

Phew. 4.56 and a 460. Sign up for a gas station rewards card fast How did you identify them being 4.56? In addition to the specs the others guys asked for, aside from 'not towing much' what is the primary purpose of this truck? Gas mileage aside, if you do a lot of highway driving and can get those rpms down (whichever route you take) the drive will be a lot more enjoyable.

If it is like most of the controllers I have dealt with there should not be a need to "tap in" to anything if he was to remove it. Power all the time and ground should be stand alone and just removed from were they tie into the trucks system like fuse box for power & dash frame ground. The trailer brake wire is also stand alone from controller to rear trailer light hook up socket. Could just be cut at the controller and tied up out of the way as it is not "hot". The brake light wire should use a scotch block to pick up the brake lights. Remove the block & wire and you are done. I also want to know why he added the rod to the cooling system? What is he trying to save? When I worked at the hospital we had them in the 2 drinking foutian water coolers to save the tanks from rusting along with the piping of the system. Water was pumped through out the hospital and returned back to the chillers to be re-cooled and filtered before doing the loop again. Now that I think of it the hot water loops did not have a rod in the 2 systems so I wonder if the rod only works in cold water? Forgot the kitchen loop did not have a rod either. Dave ---- Thanks for the replies guys - busy day and I'll respond in full when I finish in the shop. Dave - this brake controller is a 'hidden' unit so what is normally a dial or up/down buttons on the controller itself is remote to this one. Not a kind that is very common. Gary is correct - since it goes through the dash I want to add a connector inline to make it easier to work on the dash and do some wiring outside the truck.

Yes, that would work fine. But I didn't think of that. But it worked out fine anyway as I wanted fuses rather than fuse links. On the other hand it made for more work. Started the truck up and took it for a drive today. This is the first time in months and the first since I did all the rewiring and carb swap. I've read some people experience a 'wake up' when going to a 750 from a 600 but this truck really seemed to drive the same. Not a complaint as the main reason for the swap was to get the newer 600 on the 80 but was still hoping for a little something Part of the delay in driving it was the rust showing up in the overflow tank as well as the heater core leaking. Have the thermocure in there now and the heater core is bypassed to avoid unnecessarily contaminating it. Will drive it for a week or two and then drain. The right angle radiator drain is well worth it. I had put a couple gallons of distilled water in to ensure the drain didn't leak and then drained it. Words can't describe how nice it was to drain. A few drops come out the end of the drain (where the T handle is) while draining but they just run down the hose and nothing needed cleaned up. After shutting the truck off I noticed a slight hissing noise from the radiator. Turns out the reviews are right and the anode radiator cap doesn't seal very well. Going to take a look at that tomorrow afternoon. Since the radiator neck has the bottom port that is capped off I am thinking that I could remove the cap, slide an aluminum rod or something in there, replace the cap and thus keeping the rod in place, attach the anode to the rod and then use the original cap. Just was a quick thought I had that may not pan out. My switches (ordered in Dec) for the Dash Control came in today so will be printing up a new panel to accommodate the new functionality. I'll add a photo when done but I am replacing some of the push buttons with 3 position dials. Same model line as the push buttons so will retain the look I was going for. Question for you guys. My brake controller has a dial that allows you to adjust the braking. I assume this is a rheostat? Will it cause any issues if I cut the wires and put a connector inline? Haven't done anything with rheostats before.

Sorry to hear about the motor but wow, that body really does look great!

Thanks for linking to that. "Our appreciation or understanding of other people’s hard work is fading, and that rankles me." Will echo the sentiment of how well worded the article is and just wanted to emphasize the part bolded.

You weren't kidding on it being bent! Nice job bring it back.

My carry-in 4wd c6 rebuild was around $750.

Looks like something people would pay money for And no doubt effective to boot.

That's a good question. I think it's this: https://audiojamonline.com/audiovox-veprog-prestige-web-based-program-prestige-pursuit

I read through the manual last night for that unit. It looks like a really good choice. The whole integrated shock/title sensor was nice to see and worth the upgrade. Plus, while it wouldn't get used a lot and requires another module, the ability to connect it to a pc for configuration is a real bonus in my eyes.

That's true. For me, the condition of the bolt and bed would be the determining factor. Fingers crossed that John doesn't even have to cross that bridge :)

That's really neat and a fancier design than most I've seen. For someone with a truck that came from there (if around in the 80's) that would be great to have. Been looking myself for something like that from the Marysville WA dealership.

Hopefully yours come apart easily as they are very frustrating when they spin (just like the front bumper bolts) Similar to tacking the head to the bed, we tacked a nut to the top of a couple on mine. A little more difficult to cleanup if reusing the bolt though.

Hey Sam! Yeah, as you alluded it's kind of a tough line to draw. We all want to share ways to do something and help someone make their truck more secure but doing so openly, if seen by the wrong eyes, works against it I think you and Gary are possibly looking for something with a heavier emphasis on security than the 211hv offers but I'll email Gary my thought on it and go from there. Hopefully others that have systems will chime in with feedback also.

Seriously though, let me ask some questions: Is this the system you've installed? If so, and if you are happy with it, then that's probably the way I want to go. Horn/Siren: It doesn't come with a siren. Right? Do you think it needs one? I know you've not heard the new El Toro bullhorn, but it is fairly loud. Not as loud as a siren, but louder than a regular Bullnose set of horns. And, it is distinctive. So if it was going off there's no way I'd not know it was my truck. And you couldn't get to it in an hour to cut its wires if I told you were it is. So, is there any need to put a siren on? Does the unit pulse the horn or just bring it on forever? Horn/Lights During Starting: I don't think I'm too worried about that. Unless I'm missing something, if they are trying to start the truck they've gotten into the cab and the horn and lights should be going off consistently. And, it seems to me that there are a few different ways to ensure that the engine won't start when that is happening. Let's talk about this offline. Make sense? If only you had a little knowledge of the electrical system in your truck before you go and cause some severe damage Will shoot you an email tomorrow regarding the viper. I think we can make it do what you want but there may better out of the box options. Viper alone has a slew of models. The hard part I ran into was trying to find the difference between them all.

Those lights are very impressive. Well done. I need to go back and read some updates I've missed. I like where you are going with the keyless entry/security I like the Viper 211HV. Simple remote but decent features. Despite what the manual says though, I haven't been able to make it set off the horn or lights if someone tries to start it while armed so not a good choice if wanting that feature. Looks like it was a great outing!

Welcome aboard! I am looking forward to hearing and seeing more about your C&C!

Jim is right - that's the bolt for right hand side lower dash support arm. G701/G106 screws to the dash support just to the right of the radio. That bolt (lower dash support arm) is what I used to beef my ground path up. Ran a heavy (2 or 4awg, can't recall at the moment) cable from the battery to that bolt. Then on the interior side I ran a cable from the same bolt to a ground bar behind the dash. From there I ran a 10awg wire to the dash support. The ground bar could be ignored and a wire ran directly from the interior side of the bolt to G701/G106. Not a modification that's really needed for most but if adding things like an amp, it's an easy way to add a reliable ground path.

Very nice!