Gary Lewis

What no gas gauge on that puppy Because mine is also water cooled I have temp gauge but only a ALT light for charging and 1 for PTO. Because mine is also what they call F.I., high psi carb, when you first turn the key on the prim light comes on and when off you can start, just like a diesel and they make my size in a diesel and the dash has the glow plug light but not used. Dave ---- I have a gas gauge, but it is at my left elbow and not readable when mowing. I looked at basically the same mower as yours about 10 years ago. Would have been nice with power steering, power lift, locking rear diff, etc. But with a 60" deck it wouldn't go through my gate. Sure would have been nice on the trailers though.

Say WHAT? You can't even see the '84 or '85 that lie between the '81 and '86?

I don't think it really matters who made the first one. The way it was installed with a spacer probably put a bending force right at the transition from flat to the curve, which focused all of the force right there. It was a given it would fail, and that it would fail there. But, that doesn't explain why the second one failed. That's the one that bothers me. Install the wrong part and try to get by with a shim is one thing. But if the second one was the right part, then why did it fail? Do we know for sure the 2nd was the right part? Beside what the parts store said?

Nice new & shinny What made you get a tractor over a zero turn? Everyone tells me I can get done faster with a zero turn but I don't have that many things go around and you cant use a zero turn for plowing 20'x30' gardens. A radio headset and you can really enjoy cutting the grass I have an older larger brother I picked up used and after sitting on it for 3+ hours cutting the grass I sometimes think its too small. With power steering, adjustable wheel & spring ride seat, cruise control, cup holder and hydro drive / deck lift & 3 point hitch its a beast. I also have plows for the garden and 4way for up front but get no snow here to use it. Dave ---- Dane - I missed your new purchase. Cool! That's lots better than a push mower! Dave - in some ways I miss my lawn tractor. I could move the trailers around quite nicely with it. But the ZTR, which gets the lawn done in half the time, just won't do it w/o popping wheelies. Scary! But I'm with you on the headset. Scott got me into the 3M Worktunes with Bluetooth. Man, those things WORK! They drop the noise dramatically and allow me to listen to tunes. However, there's a minor problem - I can't hear the mower well enough to tell when I'm running out of gas. I was mowing along the other day and felt something. What was that? Turns out it was the engine bogging from lack of fuel, and while I was trying to figure it out it almost stranded me. If I'd not had the headset on I might have detected the change in engine noise earlier. But, 99% of the time the headset is THE way to go.

Sorry, I missed that you'd posted that page already. And that one is from the '86 EVTM. The one I'm using is from the '85 EVTM, both of which are on the site. Both are correct for all trucks in the circuit we are referencing, meaning the tach. The only difference is that for 1985 and earlier the wire was black with light green dots. In '86 the dots turned into stripes. However, lots of other things are shown on those pages, and in particular the fuel tank switching arrangement did change between trucks with different engines and # of tanks.

If you already have figured out that yours has the internal snap ring, which it should as an '84, then the differential would have to come out to pull the stub shaft. However, there's a slip joint, 3L387 in the drawing below, that should let you pull the outer shaft w/o pulling the inner one. Have you tried that?

There's only one more connector, C169, and it is said to be a brown 2-pin near the fuel pump relay, meaning on the driver's side of the firewall between the brake booster and fender.

No, I don't. But, if it could be bought for far less it would be a good place from which to start a build. He said it is driveable, which is an absolute requirement for me these days as if it can't be driven it must be considered salvage since it'll have far more problems than you are told. But how does he know it needs a flywheel? Bad ring gear?

I have not looked at the wiring link but I don't see why it would make a difference if the large starter cable was moved to the other side of the relay on the fender with the battery cable and a 10ga wire run from the output of the trucks relay to the PMGR trigger lug. This way the relay is only supplying trigger power to the PMGR starter unlike it was with the Ford factory set up. My drag car's PMGR starter is wired this way and works great. Dave ---- Yep, that's what our page shows:

Thanks, Bill. I'm just having a hard time picturing how you used the holes in the valve covers. Do you have wire supports that snap down into the holes? Or ones that go under a bolt?

That's a beast. But, this confuses me: "original fender flares, original 429 Cobra jet hood scoop." Original fender flares? They didn't originally come with fender flares. Original 429 Cobra jet hood scoop? Ditto

All set for a road trip! Where you going?

Very true.

Nice! Probably worth that price.

Thanks, Jim. You have #1 at about 10 o'clock, which is where I was planning to put mine.

I went back to the start of the thread and scrolled through. Was up to June 15th of last year and still working on things off the '95 D60. So it hasn't quite been a year. Maybe I can get it going by the end of a year?

That's a PMGR starter, so you may want to change the wiring. It isn't required, but that starter has its own relay in it, so you can use the relay on the fender to trigger the one in the starter, as described on that page.

These appeared to be good. But 1 of them wasn't gapped the same as the others at .042. More like .046. By itself that's enough to put me off a brand. I expect them to be consistent.

Cory - You are sneaking up on 17.5! I'm envious of you getting to drive your truck. Shaun - Our guy Steve/Foxford33 works at the local tire shop, Tate Boys. I just can't buy elsewhere.

You are being generous. Unless these Autlites are 024's, they have just two digits. The Autolite site says a '96 F350 w/a 7.5L would have a 25 originally. As for x-ref, this site has a lot of info but I'm not sure I buy it. It says a 24 crosses to: Bosch 0242229528 Bosch 7569 Bosch 7969 Bosch H8B Bosch H8BC Bosch HR6BC Bosch HR8B Bosch HR8BC Bosch WA145T40 Bosch WA145TR40 Champion 406 Champion BL11Y Champion RBL11Y Champion RV12YC Champion RV9YC Champion V12YC Champion stk 400 Motorcraft 415 Motorcraft AF32 Motorcraft ARF22 Motorcraft ARF32 Motorcraft ARF32M Motorcraft ASF32 Motorcraft ASF32C Motorcraft ASF32CM Motorcraft SP-415 Motorcraft stk 15 NGK 1277 NGK 2623 NGK BP6FS NGK BPR6FS NGK R5674-6 NGK UR5 NGK stk 1277 NGK stk 2623 NGK stk 2771

Which starter did you order? I ask because if it is a PMGR unit you may want to change the wiring on the truck. Read about that at Documentation/Electrical/PMGR Starter Wiring.

I may change to another plug later, but wanted to know the heat range he'd recommend. NGK has a chart for conversion, but it doesn't include Autolite. NGK sure doesn't think much of Autolite's numbering system:

Bill - You are on the map. By the way, you are posting via email. That's your call, but it can bring with each post a lot of baggage. If you log onto the forum and look you'll see that your posts have a lot of the previous post in them. On some email systems you can click three dots on the page and see the baggage, and delete it if you want. Or you can post via logging onto the forum. Your call.

They clearly don't want to install tires purchased from Tire Rack. Go elsewhere.

Pizzadude - Welcome! What part of CA? We have a map and can add you if we had a zip or city. And, you've been promoted to Member so you can post elsewhere, which is a better place to do troubleshooting. However, you are welcome to do it here if you want. It may just get less traffic.