Gary Lewis

I changed diffs in my Bronco's front Dana 44. No case spreader, just pry bars to get it out and a big hammer and block of wood to put it in. A case spreader would be easier, but a lot more expensive. And I expect I will do it again. But I get why it's expensive and why people are willing to pay for it to be done. Good to know. Thanks!

Wouldn't your head be in the way when working on something? Or would the other LED's in the strip fill in?

Yep, I would have rather paid the extra $20-$30 to not have had to beat the snot out of this one to get it to fit. No paint just bare metal, which is fine because I had to beat on it to get it to fit anyway. Mine was nicely powder coated. And it fit fairly well. Too bad that's no longer an option.

I wise man once said "A man't got to know his limitations." And if you don't have the time nor the wife's blessing then you have serious limitations. Time to walk away. But the Lariat might be a good possibility.

Yes, the D60 mounts I have are 4-bolt and 2 1/2" longer than the TTB upper mounts.

Its a shame that the new one isn't, or wasn't, done well. Mine that Jason made was just right. And yours wasn't painted?

Amen, brother!

Good! I'll bet you had lots of lights coming on. Sure glad you caught that.

Yep, that coil wire will work. But I'll look to see what I have in stock. As for orientation, I can shift the wires around the cap. I doubt #1 will know if it isn't where the embossed "1" is - assuming this cap has a "1".

I think the timing was set around 12 degrees BTDC. Obviously with the vacuum advance disconnected.

Advance is pointing straight forward, or 6:00. But I can drop the dizzy in with the rotor pointing pretty much anywhere. I've found lots of different orientations in my looking. And I don't see anything about it in the shop manual. It is confusing.

I see that now. I wonder if my wires would work out better if I rotated the dizzy. I have #1 at about 10:00.

Ahhh, I see what you mean about the threads. Ok, got it. On the boots, I'll see if the boots slip up easily, but I'm not sure how much I want to change the length. Yeah, I remember the discussion. Yes, I could use just any coil wire. Good point.

Not sure what you mean about the "runout of that thread". Could you explain? The wire holders are Ford, from a Windsor I think. Let me see if I can find them. I have several 3-wire and 4-wire. To adjust the wires, do you slide the boot off? As for the adapter, I'm happy to replace it if there's a black one available.

Wow! That's pretty poor. I'll bet there has to be some massaging of the truck to get it to fit. But it didn't take much.

Gary and myrl883 already answered this, but yes. Pull the outer two sections of the right front axle out after removing one of the "hose clamps" on the slip joint boot. Before you pull it out you might want to note the orientation of the U-joints to duplicate it when you put it back together. Since you don't need to take the diff out the rest of your questions are moot. but since you asked... Take the right side apart as described already, remove the left spindle and pull the left side axle out. Then remove all of the bolts that hold the diff housing on. This includes a big one (or two?) on the driver's side as well as the "diff cover" bolts through the driver's side swing arm. On my F-250 I had to support the truck frame and let the axles droop to get enough clearance to pull the diff out of the truck. But the whole thing will come out, including the last section of the right axle. Then you set it on your work bench while you pull the clip. I could be wrong about this, but I don't think you can replace the seal without removing the differential from its housing. And you don't want to do that unless you absolutely need to. I know that I didn't replace the seal when I had my front axle apart a year or two ago (I needed to replace all three U-joints). It wasn't leaking before so I figured it was probably OK. I'm not sure what you are asking for here. The entire differential comes out together, with everything still in the cast housing. You can move anything you want as much as you want. Just don't remove the bearing caps. That starts the process of removing the diff from the cast housing, which you don't want to do unless you have to. Reassembling it isn't rocket science, but it pretty much does fit into the "if you have to ask if you can, then you probably can't" category. (Which is not to say that if you haven't done it before you can't. Even if you haven't done it before, if you are confident that you can figure out how to set up gears then you probably can. Again, it's not rocket science. But most people who've done it once realize why it costs so much to have a shop do it. And a lot of people choose not to do it a second time.) I've heard that to pull the diff out of a D44 you have to slightly spread the case. It isn't something I'd do if I didn't have to.

Yippee!!!! Glad he's found a new home - and that he made it there in one piece. How'd he drive?

This post back on FTE shows what I did: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1123180-dads-truck-build-62.html#post11963634. However, it was done when the engine was in Rusty, so I'd have to go to his thread to find the post about doing it. Can if you need it.

Bill - Don't worry, I think I've got it figured out. Made a couple of these, meaning I drilled and tapped two bolts 10-32, turned a piece of round stock down to 3/16", and threaded it to match. They'll be powder coated and the studs will be secured with red Loctite. Here's the passenger's side, which is a 4-wire holder: And here's the driver's side, which is a 3-wire holder: Still have some organization to work out, and I'm not terribly pleased with the wire lengths, but they are what they are. Now, what concerns do y'all have 'bout this?

Checked with Steve, and it didn't work. I've now edited the previous post, and will send him a link. I'm pretty sure this one will work - and it'll light the truck up!

The issue is that aftermarket intakes frequently relocate the carb a bit from factory, usually backwards. So the factory throttle bracket doesn't work. What I've done is to cut the bracket basically in half, weld a piece of strap to one side, bolt it on, and slide the other side around until it is lined up right and there is just a tiny bit of slack in the throttle. Use vice grips to hold it there, pull it off, and weld it up. Some place I have pictures of that if you need them.

I think C906 is perfect! And, I'll check w/Steve to see what he did and how it worked. I cannot see using the w/r working at all, now that I look at it more closely. If it didn't work for him, as it surely can't unless I'm missing something, I'll edit that post to make it C906.

I'm using Chrome on my Windows devices, but Safari on my iPhone. However, I just tried Chrome on my phone and it shows the whole menu. Maybe try another browser?

What does your system do to the hazards? I'm thinking it pulses them, meaning it applies voltage and takes it away, simulating the hazard flasher. Right? If so, if you connect to the w/r wire you also have to turn the hazard switch on for the power to get to the bulbs. So the only way for the system to flash the hazards is to tie into both the lg/w and the w/bl. But, you can't tie them together or the turn signals will both work at the same time. However, you could use a pair of diodes with the anodes tied together and one cathode going to the lg/w and the other going to the w/bl. That way the turn signals will still work. However, the voltage to the bulbs will be down ~.7v when the system is flashing them.

You are seeing a years-old menu. Note that yours starts with Ammeter, and misses out the 3G Conversion and Alternator pages. Could you clear the cache? There's something seriously wrong and I think your browser is remembering the site the way it was two years ago.