Gary Lewis

Yes, the DB wire goes to ground when the horn button is pushed - on a truck with speed control. Odd that Circuit #1 is the horn. I would have thought when they started numbering they would have started with something like ignition.

How do the shocks attach at the bottom end?

The side marker light looks good! And with the LED's I'm sure you'll be seen much easier at night. Maybe you could do a before and after on the incandescent bulb vs LED? If you replace the stop/turn signal and the front turn signal bulbs with LED's you'll have to have the right flasher. However, I think I put a special flasher in there 'cause when I was pulling a trailer it was blinking much too quickly. So replace the bulbs with LED's and see. It may work w/o changing out the flasher. Looking through the windshield I can see where the dash cover ends and the pad shows. I'd forgotten that I put a dash cover on. As for the steering damper, I've not installed one, but am curious what difference you see/feel.

You use noise cancelling head phones while mowing... Technically not noise-cancelling, just something like 24db of noise reduction. But they work well enough that I can listen to tunes or even hear when the phone rings. But, mowing doesn't take balance, like skiing or roller blading does.

Yes, that can do it. Hope you get the brakes sorted today.

Welcome, Jim. Sorry you can't find it. That's a bummer.

Given the finds that David is posting of jacks, hold down straps, etc I decided we needed a page on them. So, we now have one at: Documentation/Underhood/Jacks, Lug Wrenches, ETC. However, I cannot get the first snippet of Jack Assy to come out full size, regardless of what I do. So I'll work it in the background. And, note that I found the clip and screw/washer combo in our Standard & Utility Part Catalog and put the entry on this page. Plus, I realized that we have the screw/washer combo on a page of its own, so linked to it.

Ok, we have it: Documentation/Underhood/Jacks, Lug Wrenches, ETC. However, I cannot get the first snippet of Jack Assy to come out full size, regardless of what I do. So I'll work it in the background. And, note that I found the clip and screw/washer combo in our Standard & Utility Part Catalog and put the entry on this page.

David - Just looked at jack hold downs, and thought "We need a page on them." Then did a search for jacks, and found that we discussed this back in March on a similar topic, jacks, and I didn't do anything. Don't you think we could use a page on jacks and hold downs?

Yes, it does!

Yes, I'll certainly have one when I go EEC, if not DS-II. By the way, I think the one you found is for a points system. Sure looks familiar, with the open connector going under the screw. My EEC coil takes one with a spade connector. I have a couple, but they are like yours, rusty.

Good! My experience with that slip joint was that it took a lot of force to get it to come apart. And you don't have a lot of room in which to work. Hope it comes apart for you. Or, maybe it already has?

ISWYDT. Yeah, in theory I could have my Worktunes on as hearing protectors, but not the Bluetooth part turned on. Or Air Pods Pros, assuming you can turn on the active noise cancellation w/o music. Thanks, but I'll pass.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F201304947432 Good find, Jim. But in answer to the question, which I'd missed, the condensor/capacitor neither helps nor hurts the current draw. (Yes, if you want to get technical it can smooth things out a bit, but the overall energy drawn is the same.) So I don't think that has anything to do with the problem. Leave it off for now and add one back if the radio needs it.

Ha! I've grown to dislike it more and more over the years, but I actually don't mind the upside down part, or the egress part. What I really REALLY hate is in order to pass the course, you have to at least once put the breathing apparatus in while you're strapped in upside down under water, expel the water in it, and take two full breaths before egress. Man to I hate that. I don't mind holding my breath under water and doing it that way, but putting that thing in your mouth and getting the water out of it, and taking a breath is unnerving. Be easy stuff for a diver, but the average Joe like me not so much...lol. I've been on lakes in storms with what I thought were big waves, and maybe they were in relationship to the size of the boat. But those waves are CRAZY! Count me out! While I worked in oil an gas and my staff routinely went out on the rigs, I never did. Not that I didn't want to, but it just didn't happen. But I sure wouldn't want to in a storm. And I want no part of being in the middle of the ocean, any ocean, and having to always be on the lookout for that rogue wave that will destroy you - especially in an unballasted boat. No way, Jose!

Yeah, $4.95 doesn't cover the person's time to get it, box it, and label it, much less the shipping cost. That Sag pump has the return where I would have like it. Much better angle than the one I have. Oh well.

I'm not there yet on hearing aids, but will have to at some point in the not too-distant future, I'm sure. As for not hearing what is going on, I'm amazed at folks who can ski or roller blade with ear phones in. I lose my sense of balance to some degree when I can't hear what is going on. So I, too, find myself going faster if I try to drive with headphones in - and it isn't legal.

I had the same issue with the Terrapin brace by the way. The pic below shows how well it fit my firewall out of the box. The bracket was well made, and I'm sure fit some trucks just fine, but not mine. I took a little different approach and rather than make the firewall fit the brace, I modified the brace to fit my firewall. I basically cut the right angle piece off the side, and then trimmed both pieces until they fit snugly into place. I bolted both of them in, tacked them together, and then removed it again to finish welding. By the time I was done with grinding and paint, you couldn't even tell that the brace was ever touched. I didn't take many pictures unfortunately, but I do have this one after welding. It seems like a lot of work compared to a couple well placed blows with a hammer, but it wasn't so bad. Another thing to note is I also had to shim the upper right angled piece that bolts into the trough under the cowl panel. All bolted in place on my truck, that part of the brace was a good 1/8"-3/16" short of touching the cab. I just used flat washers for the shims, and maybe didn't even need to, but this rusty junk is pretty fragile around here and I didn't want to risk bending the trough floor down (instead of the bracket up). A little OCD perhaps...lol, but whatever. Just throwing it out there is all. It is interesting that the trucks can be so different. The Terrapin brace fit Big Blue fairly well - well enough that while I had to be it and the truck a bit, there was no thought of cutting the brace. I would have thought that the trucks themselves would have been more consistent. Apparently no.

Man, it is hard to believe that a 95A 3G is $35 delivered. Or a Sag pump is $55 delivered. And all the other stuff is excellent pricing as well. Good find!

Interesting. Haven't seen a quad shock setup on a D60. Assume you have a different lower mount as well.

Glad you are/did get it done. Were the drums still in good shape?

I'd vote for EFI & E4OD. You have everything you need save for maybe needing to lengthen some wires, and possibly needing different fresh air ducting as that can vary from a van to a truck. And I agree that you should get an engine with a warranty. As for the 3.73, I'd pull it and see what the gears look like. If they are good that's what I'd go with. The 3.08's and the OD will make for rather tall gearing.

PH8A? You are running an orange oil filter? A Fram?

That's not bad for towing something that long and heavy.

I found the post on FTE where I modified the throttle bracket for Rusty. Here's the text from it: And here's the cobbled-together results. The two holes on the left take the bolts to hold it to the intake manifold. And on the right you can make out the U that the throttle cable goes down into. And in the middle you can see that the front part of the bracket has been moved ~1/2" towards the front of the truck, meaning right in the pic, and ~1" to the left side of the truck, or up in the pic. That lined the linkage up and took the slack out of it.