Gary Lewis

Got the oil filter/cooler adapter and hose routing figured out. Turns out that routing the hoses outboard toward the frame gets them w/in an inch of the header, so I decided to go straight forward. Given that I pulled the adapter and played with fittings until I got what I wanted. It looks a bit bizarre, but by using 45's the turns are much more gentle and the position works out just right. Here it is out of the truck: And here it is installed in the truck: But just before I started to install the hoses I thought I'd better put the lower radiator hose on to see where it goes. Glad I did 'cause that determines where the oil cooler hoses can go. However, you can't tell from that pic but the hose is not the right one. Turns out that the 1993+ water pumps have a smaller outlet than the earlier pumps, so the old hose won't fit. That got me to wondering about the upper hose, so I checked. Yuk! So I called Skiatook Auto Parts, where our guy DeWayne works, and talked to David. He thinks he has the F5TZ-A hose that Bill thinks is the one w/o the kickup. And, he thinks he has the '93+ lower hose. So Monday I'm headed there with the old hoses. And I'll pick up new heater hose, a thermostat, thermostat housing gasket, and coolant. Last, I emailed with Scotty about break-in oil. Here's what he said: So, what do y'all think about oil? I'm thinking I'll order the Brad Penn Break-In Oil since I have 8 quarts of Brad Penn 30W-40 to use after that.

Two steps forward and one backward is still progress.

Dave gave good suggestions. Good luck, and let us know.

Uh oh! A newbie! Seriously though, Stepside is a registered Chevy name. Flareside is the equivalent Ford term. And Fleetside is another Chevy term, the Ford of which is Styleside. As for electronics, we can use all the help we can get. And if Nick can mod a factory radio to have Bluetooth there may be a lot of us interested. And now you are on the map.

Looking good! Love it.

Yep, and it is from their posting.

There appears to be a problem with this thread. I can see the thread, but cannot reply to it in the forum nor do anything else to it. I suspect it is because there were two identical threads by the same author, and it confused the software. Given that, I'm replying by email - which isn't the recommended way to reply. Rooster - Sorry, I've not seen this happen before, so I recommend you start a new thread.

Thanks, Steve. I’ll look forward to your findings.

Looks like you have duplicate threads. Ok to delete this one?

Welcome, Rooster! We'll get to the question in a bit, but first a bit of housekeeping. Normally introductions are done in the New Members Start Here folder as the guidelines are posting in that folder says you've had an opportunity to read them. So please assure us that you've read them? And, I can move this thread there if you'd like and then you can open a new thread here in the main section with the title of your question on driveshafts. Or, you can continue on here. Your call. Also, where are you? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you if we had a city or zip/postal code. On the driveshaft, I don't know. Some of the guys may, but you can figure it out yourself if they don't. We have a page @ Documentation/Driveline/Drive Shafts that tells on the Application Chart tab. Last, if you'd create a signature that tells us about your truck then when you ask questions we won't have to guess at what you have. Instructions for a signature, as well as several other things, are in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's.

Janey and I were talking the other day that when I get Big Blue on the road again he needs to have better insurance than what State Farm offers. They, and most automobile insurance companies, just insure it for "replacement value" and don't take into account all the "upgrades" that have been done. I've read that "classic vehicle" insurance is the way to go, like maybe Hagerty, as they appraise the vehicle and take into account what it is/has. So some questions for y'all:

That being the case, the only way I can see the new one responding quickly is if your 'stat is open or not even there.

It looks like either you don't have a thermostat or it is stuck open. I think you should be able to tell by pulling the radiator cap when the engine is cold and then starting it. You shouldn't see circulation in the radiator until the thermostat opens. But your sending unit is in the thermostat housing, right? The "gooseneck"?

They are supposed to be sealed from the factory. But if you have the right gasket it won't hurt to pull it and re-seal it.

Yes, you are absolutely right. And I need to upgrade the 3G swap page to show both schematics as the '86 trucks came with the 2G.

Other than the grille and headlights, I'm not seeing the similarity to a Raptor. The fenders seem to swoop way too much and, when looked at from the side, are ugly. And there's no bumper, just a serious over-bite. Sorry, not a fan.

Jim had good answers. But part of the problem is that I've made statements that aren't 100% accurate. For instance, the shunt doesn't always have to be removed, and that depends on what accessories you have in the truck and what your preferences are. The shunt is probably good for ~70 amps. So if you don't have some killer stereo or other serious power-consuming accessory that is pulling power from the cab wiring, then you don't really have to remove the shunt. You just wire things as shown below with the output of the alternator going to the battery via the starter relay, but w/o the red X above S202 and w/o the relay. (And you really should have a fuse in that line as well.) Wired that way the shunt is no longer carrying power to the battery from the alternator, so it doesn't matter how big your alternator is. However, the ammeter will always show a discharge, and more so when you turn more and more accessories on. Or, you can wire it exactly as shown, meaning make the cut above S202, add the relay, and replace the ammeter with a volt meter. In that case the volt meter will show battery voltage when the key is on.

Showing past full probably means there is a short to ground in the dark blue/yellow wire. I say that because even if the sender is stuck in the fully "up" position the gauge should only read "Full". So check the wiring and see if it might be caught between the tank and the frame, or something like that. Pull the connector off the tank and see if the reading changes. If it does then it isn't in the wiring but is in the sender. Maybe it is shorted. If it does change then the problem is in the wiring.

Welcome! You bought it new? Cool! That's a wonderful story. And who is "we"? You and your wife? You and a child? Tell us more, please! And, where are you? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and could add you if we had a city or zip. Perhaps you are close to one of us.

So as an update the truck is now running. When I first went to pick it up, it cranked over with a no-fire, but then when I went to try again, the Theft light started flashing. I could not get the truck to stop flashing the theft light, and more than likely threw the PCM into lockdown. After we got the truck home and got it off the trailer, I hopped in and it again started to crank over, only to throw the theft light an hour later while testing the fuel pump. After that no amount of battery unplugging would get the light off. After verifying the fuses were good and the PATS antenna was getting power, I decided to switch out the PATS antenna/transceiver with a spare one I just to happened to have sitting in the shop. That fixed the PATS issue, and from there I verified that the fuel pump was getting 12v at the connector, which it was. A new fuel pump later and two cycles of the key to prime and she fired right up. Congrat's! Good diagnostic work.

So glad you did. How 'bout going here, click New Topic, and tell us about yourself and your truck. That will create your own thread and more people will see it and welcome you. Welcome!

After getting the stud installed I pulled all the parts, media-blasted them, and powder coated them. Here's the hose stay and clamp after PC'ing: And I got tired of PC'ing fasteners one or two at a time, so these are the ones left over after installing a few things: And here are a few of the other things that got PC'd, including the hood latch bracket and the two grille brackets on either side. Oh, and the oil cooler got a couple of coats of BBQ paint. Here is the hose stay installed as well as the lower oil cooler mount: And now that you've seen all the nice, shiny stuff, here's the filler panel. Ugly! But it is too long to go in the blast cabinet. I'm seriously considering using the one for Dad's truck, which has been painted, and have this one painted for Dad's truck. Thoughts?

Jim - They are T50's.

Jim - I'm sure you know we have the 1356 info here, but just in case: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/transfer-cases.html. And I'll go get the Torx size in a moment. But, are you sure you need the pump and not the "fix"? The pump rubs on the case and needs a piece welded to it to spread the load.

No Need to get my eyes checked. Seen the auto column and didn't see that one. Thanks No prob. I've had that problem plenty of times.