Gary Lewis

Check out this TSB: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/89-22-08-emissions-maintenance-warning-module.html. Is that what you have? If so, that might be a good use of that "window". You could create a label to warn of Alternator or Battery.

Bill - Although I have a degree in Math it is over 50 years old and I think it has worn out. Jim - That's a good question. I'm shooting for August. Or at least before the show on Sept 19th. So let's set Sept 19th as the date. Why? Because Janey is getting cabin fever and she's already told the kids we are taking a road trip in Big Blue. Didn't say when, but I mentioned Colorado and after the show, and she bought in. Thinking about it, here are the major things to do: Fuel System: I need to mount the tanks, add the FDM's, fuel lines, and regulator. And remove the resistor in the wiring to the pumps. Interior: I need to clean, sand, and paint the floor. Then add sound deadening and the carpet. Add a couple of shift levers and a seat. But preferably, paint the plastic before installing it. Engine: Start it and break it in. Driveline: Put the u-joints in the front shaft and install it. Exhaust: I'll bolt the old glass packs on, but I want a whole new system installed inc Magnaflows. Does that seem doable in that time?

Check out our page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Upgrade and then the Ammeters & Voltmeters tab. There's a link in there to Rocketman, and there's a wiring diagram showing how I wired Big Blue's voltmeter that replaced his ammeter.

Ron - I am hoping to stay as close as possible to the categories we usually use. And those categories are generic, meaning not by bed style, cab length, F100 vs F350, etc. But some of the categories we've used, like Farthest Distance Driven, are obviously not going to work and we'll have to make a few changes. Jonathan - You have good questions. But let me see if I can answer them: Owner Vs Truck: I think we are judging the truck and not the owner, so that would mean that someone with multiple trucks entered could "take home" multiple trophies. Does that make sense? Which Category: If a truck has the most votes in two or more categories I suggest that it wins the one in which it has the most votes. And if it has the same number of votes in two categories then it will win the one that is first in the list of categories. Let me explain. Assume the categories are: Best Engine; Best Upgrades; People's Favorite; Closest To Stock; Ugliest Truck; & Best Story - in that order. If truck "A" gets 439 votes for People's Favorite and 439 votes for Ugliest Truck then it will win People's Favorite since that is first in the list. Best Story: I like what I think you suggested as a category. And in it could be lots of facts, including longest time owned, best adventure the truck has been on, who used to own it, etc. I'm not worried about verifying them, but this would give a way for people to get creative. What do y'all think about those answers? Also, I have another question: I'm thinking of sending an email to everyone that's registered on the forum to tell them about the show and let them know they can not only vote but enter their truck. Thoughts?

Well, I made the brake bleeder tool today. And I wrote it up here: Gary's Brake Bleeding Tool. Then I used it, and we have brakes! As said in that thread, I am going to get different tubing that fits the bleeder screws tightly and make sure that what I was seeing in the rear on the smaller bleeder screws was air being sucked in at a loose fitting. And, I need to get more brake fluid. Speaking of brake fluid, I went through half of a gallon of it today! The reservoir itself takes a full quart. And then I went through a bit more than another quart getting the bubbles out. But the system was dry, so I shouldn't have been surprised. In any event, we do have brakes! And they feel quite firm. However, as the engine isn't running there's no boost, and that will change the "feel".

Today I made a tool to bleed brake systems that use the later master cylinders with screw-on lids, like the one I put on Big Blue. I started with this low-pressure regulator and gauge that I had been using for powder coating. I removed it from the fixed position in the air line on the wall and put a female quick disconnect fitting in its place and added a male fitting to this setup. That way I can plug it into the air hose at the truck. Then I moved on to the lid. The pic below shows the parts, including a 1/8" pipe to 1/8" hose barb and a 1/8" pipe fitting. But note that red line on the fitting - I cut the fitting there and used the hex-shaped part as a nut to secure the barb. I drilled and tapped the lid for 1/8" pipe to take the barb. Then I cut the rubber gasket to just pass over the threaded side of the barb and secured the barb with the "nut". And here's what the thing looks like: So, does it work? Yes! It works well. I put about 4 psi on the master cylinder and started bleeding the brakes from the farthest away to the closest. The system was essentially dry so it took quite a while and I made three rounds to get all of the air out. But the brake pedal is very firm. However, I did learn something in that process that I want to pass on. You need to have clear tubing at the bleeder valve so you can tell if there's any air coming out. And, that tubing needs to fit the valve tightly. The hose I have fits the front valves very well, but not the back ones as they are smaller. So it looks as if there may be air getting sucked in at that joint and causing bubbles. Tomorrow I'll get an assortment of clear tubing and see if that fixes it.

Thanks, Bill. But I got a Gates 26392, which is a 2" to 1 3/3" adapter, yesterday and installed it. Came in from Amazon in about 36 hours. So the lower hose is on. And the F5TZ-A upper hose should be in here soon. Oddly enough, someone on FB posted a pic of his hot-rod 460 today and it had the huge hump in the upper hose.

And not to me. I'm concentrating on Big Blue at the moment, with still more expenses ahead on it, so have to wait on Dad's truck.

Good to know, Bill. And you are right about limp mode.

Apparently this truck sold for $45K on BaT yesterday. I don't know if BaT's listings stay around forever, so I'm going to include some of the info here for posterity. The advert says:

Not for factory-installed A/C. 80/on F-U100/250 - - A/C (dealer installed) w/o Hi-Low vent 83/on E 150/250 - - A/C (dealer installed)

I'm interested. But I'm in no rush as it is for Dad's truck and I'm years away on that. I've been planning to use something like the Classic Car Stereo's USA-740, although I've not settled on what I'll use. But basically the features I'd want are: AM/FM stereo Bluetooth for audio and phone calls Mike jack for phone calls so the phone can be in my pocket Reasonable power for speakers, but I could go with an outboard amp Sub output Preferably no clock as I'll have the factory clock just above it. No need for cassette No need for CD or CD controls I believe I have the original AM/FM stereo radio, but memory says something doesn't work on it, and I think it is the FM section. Is that something that could be used to provide those features?

Google says there are 719K vehicles on the island. So to have one of only two is pretty impressive.

You are on the map. Is yours the only Bullnose there? Amoung all the high-end cars it must be somewhat obvious.

Yep, I'd swap back. But, I didn't think the feedback made much difference at idle, so it may not help. However, it was the last thing changed so needs to be the first thing put back.

Nice truck! And probably the best bed I've seen in many decades.

How are you going to wire it in? That's important as the shunt, assuming that your truck has an ammeter, is only good for about half of what your alternator can crank out. So if you have a dead battery you'll fry that shunt if wired the wrong way.

Yikes! 50C is 122F! Where are you? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd love to put you on it. Give us a city is all that's needed.

Jim - My assumption has been that there's enough drag in the transmission to cause the output shaft of the tranny to want to spin, gently. And that it is just enough to take the bind out of the t-case gears. But I've had more than one t-case not want to shift if the engine was off.

It appears that you are making progress and, as Jim says, progress is good. And you are peeling the onion. Keep up the good work.

Yep. Shouldn't be too hard What alternator did your kit come with? You are going to need plenty of power with the fan.

Here's your other pic. You should think about a shroud for your radiator. The fan you have will only be pulling air through about 1/2 of the radiator, but if you had a shroud and moved the fan back to the opening of the shroud it would be pulling air through all of the radiator.

You should try a 460. Then add hydroboost. And an engine oil cooler. And an auxiliary battery. And, and, and.....

Sometimes you have to roll it a bit to get it to come out. Usually if you have the engine running and in neutral that will do it. But if you can't get it started, and you are on The Hill, roll it.

Time to update the list of to-do's from a couple of weeks ago: Electrical: This includes the wiring for the fuel pump, oil pressure sender, and the ignition. Given that some of it is on the firewall or back of the engine, I think it needs to be first. DONE HVAC: Assuming the gaskets are in, next I need to put the plenum on and change up the wiring. Still awaiting the gaskets. Lower Plenum (Intake Manifold): I need to install the plugs for the injector bungs, the various vacuum fittings, and the carb adapter to the lower plenum. DONE Cooling System: I need to install the bypass hose before I get anything else in the way. Then, with the HVAC plenum on, it is time to install the heater hoses, the thermostat, and the radiator hoses. Plus the bulb for the aftermarket temp gauge and see if I can find a place to install the factory sending unit so I can run both gauges. Bill - What is the part # for the upper radiator hose that doesn't kick up? Done, save for heater hoses and upper radiator hose, which is on order. Distributor: Have to get the dizzy to drop and ensure it is sitting on #1, then clamp it down. Awaiting the oil so I can pressurize the system through the dizzy's hole. Fuel System: Now may be the time to install the tanks, plural, and the FDM's, plumbing, and then the regulator, which I hope to put on the firewall. And with that done install the carb, throttle cable, and speed control. SOON, but the carb and throttle cables are on. Clutch: The clutch needs to be bled and the boot Jim sent installed. Or, maybe change out what's there with the whole system he sent, which has a stainless hose instead of the plastic that's on there. DONE Engine Oil Cooler: Finally, with all of the crawling up into the engine compartment over, it should be time to install the oil cooler. But to do that I need to also install the brackets for the hood latch and grille so I can properly position the cooler and route the hoses - without cutting the radiator support. DONE Exhaust: I have the glass packs, which are welded to the collectors, so they should bolt right on. But I don't want them on until after the fuel system is in place to ensure they won't get in the way. Awaiting fuel system. Brakes: The calipers are new and the master cylinder and lines have been replaced, so a lot of bleeding needs to be done. TOMORROW!