Gary Lewis

They look pretty good to me. But you are running afoul of the poor picture handling system on this forum. You'll need to rotate them in another app. I rotated your top pic in Photoshop and then made it full width on whatever screen people are using:

Yes, I'm ready for pics! Sounds like a really neat project, so I'm anxious to see how it is working out.

Thanks, guys. I did things somewhat backwards as I don't yet have any fluid in the brake system, so I couldn't use the MB procedure. But I do think I have the clutch system bled as well as I can at the moment and it'll take bouncing the truck to get the bubbles out - as you told me a few year ago. But tomorrow I'm going to put a hose barb on the extra brake master cylinder cap and bleed the brakes. However, I'm going to create a multi-purpose tool with which to do it. I realized this evening that I have a plumbed-up low-pressure regulator and gauge that I use for the air feed to my powder coating gun. But it is affixed to the wall. So, if I'd just put a quick disconnect on the wall and a fitting on that setup I could use it not only for powder coating but for bleeding hydraulic systems. It has a quick-disconnect on the output, so with one on the input I can carry it to the vehicle, connect it to the air hose, and pop in the right fitting. I don't know why I didn't think of it earlier today, but I did exactly the same thing with the high-pressure regulator and I use it for leak-down testing. So this is going to work out well. I'll show the results tomorrow.

Yipes! $540???? But, there is both a left and right, so they are "only" $270/ea. However, they are obviously not for 1982 - 86 trucks. 1980 and early 1981 only as they have slide locks. Hmmm, they'd be perfect for Dad's truck.

That makes sense. Sounds like a plan, Stan.

Yep, but you can only insert the cork tab into the pan seal from the side. In other words, it's not opened up on top so if you put the cork on the pan that cork tab will not go into the pan seal. Logic, from my perspective dictates that they have to go on the chain cover. Can't believe there are no instructions with this kit.....arghhh! Bummer! But I see what you are saying. Is there any way to put the cork gaskets in place on the pan and then raise them up enough to get the tips into the front seal?

Yes, those would be my pick as well. But make sure you make the valve covers flat as they are almost always dented at the bolt holes. That will mean the gasket will be squeezed there but not elsewhere. I turn the valve covers upside down and lay the edge on the edge of my work table, and then use a small hammer to flatten them.

Isn't the front pan seal split so that the point on the cork pieces goes into the split? That's the way I remember it, but it may not be correct. I think I put the cork pieces on the pan, using plenty of RTV, and then put the pan seal on, lining up the tips. But I don't think I used RTV on the pan seal as I was afraid it would squirt out with the pressure. Instead I believe I used something tacky, like Indian Head. Then I put the timing cover on.

It will look just fine! Thanks, David. I might just give it a try. I think the black would help mask the carnage done by . Ok, given that I had two 9/16" bolts, albeit too long, I installed the panhard bar using them and adjusted it. Didn't get it completely dialed in as I think I'm going to have to drive it a bit and let things settle before getting it nailed. But right now it looks like it is 1/4" too far to the passenger's side. Then I moved on to the clutch linkage. Jim sent me a slave cylinder and heat shield/boot, and my first thought was I'd install that slave as it has a braided steel line and mine is plastic. But, my master/slave combo doesn't appear to come apart, and there are no fittings where I could use my master and Jim's slave. So I'll use my slave and his boot. Thanks, Jim! But, somehow I'd gotten a lot of air in the system and I had absolutely no "pedal". After trying to use the old Mityvac (I've loaned out the new one) to pull fluid out of the bleeder screw on the slave I made a Rube Goldberg device. Turns out that the vent hole in the slave cap is just the right size for a basketball inflator needle. So I combined a low-pressure regulator and oil pressure gauge with the needle and stuck it through the cap. Initially I tried it w/o the bladder in the master, but since it serves as the gasket for the cap that didn't work at all. Instead I was getting brake fluid out around the threads. So I put the bladder in with the expectation that it would expand with the pressure and push fluid out. And at about 10 psi it appears to have worked, albeit very very slowly. I'd bleed just a bit and then run out of pressure. Add more fluid and go again. Finally I got what may be reasonable pressure on the pedal, but it is still softer than I expected for a HD clutch. I guess I'll have to wait until I have the engine started and see. Anyway, here's the contraption. I think I'm going to modify it as well as a cap to the brake master and use that combo to bleed the brakes. And, after that I installed Jim's slave boot. Thanks again, Jim!

I'm not 100% sure that I understand what you said, but I have done this a few times and it works. It is scary to cut your pan gasket, but you have to if you aren't removing the pan. Can't remember if there's a bolt hole through the pieces to stabilize them, but in any even RTV is super slick when not set up, so I like to put things in place and snug them up by hand, but not torque them until the next day. Does that help?

Yeah, it drives me bananas.

No, you don't. But thanks anyway. Actually the 9/16" bolts will be a much tighter fit than the 14mm. I have two 9/16 x 4 1/2" bolts and confirmed that they will fit. But they are too long and there's no way I want to cut and thread G8's. I included the link as I found Amazon's site to be awful when trying to filter and get down to those bolts. I did a Google search for "9/16-12 x 3 1/2" and there they were.

Didn't find the 10mm sockets, plural, but did sort the panhard rod bolt issue. Turns out that a 9/16" bolt is essentially perfect for the panhard rod ends. So I ordered a 17-pack of 9/16-12 x 3 1/2" from Amazon for $10.84. Here are the measurements: 14mm: .490" shank but .540" shoulder & threads 9/16": .560" shank & threads Frame bracket: .560" Axle bracket: .570" Ford rod: .565" Sky rod: .590"

Morning report: DeWayne couldn't find the upper hose, F5TZ 8260-A, anywhere so I ordered one from Tasca Parts. Pulled the trigger on the Brad Penn break-in oil. Amazon had the best pricing when including shipping, but given the massive engine oil cooler I thought I'd better get 7 quarts. Turns out 7 quarts is more expensive than 12 quarts! So that's what I ordered. The Gates 26392 2" to 1 3/4" hose adapter came in and I've installed it and the lower radiator hose. And it cinched up the zip tie that prevents the oil cooler hoses from hitting the belt. Turns out that a 9/16" bolt is essentially perfect for the panhard rod ends. So I ordered a 17-pack of 9/16-12 x 3 1/2" from Amazon for $10.84. Here are the measurements: 14mm: .490" shank but .540" shoulder & threads 9/16": .560" shank Frame bracket: .560" Axle bracket: .570" Ford rod: .565" Sky rod: .590"

I've played with this rather extensively recently, which you can see starting roughly with this post on Big Blue's Transformation thread. First, there's no difference between a 2V cable and a 4V cable other than maybe length. And the length difference between engines is only there to make the cable fit nicely into the space available. It doesn't do anything for how much throttle opening you get. All of the cables move the end of the cable the same distance when you move the throttle as that is determined by the pedal. And Bill is right about the position of the stud on the carb/EFI. As you'll see in BB's thread, I measured three carbs I have and found this for the distance from the center of the shaft to the center of the stud: Since the end of the cable is only going to move a certain distance when you floor the pedal, if you aren't getting full throttle there are only two things you can do:

Gary, Don't mind me, I was just spitballin' ideas since I thought you were looking for ways to break up the classes. Of course I am totally fine with whatever you do. Cory - I appreciate the ideas. They actually helped as I'd not realized before that the classes or categories are generic, meaning they'll cover whatever gets entered. So any changes to them need to stay generic. At least that's what it looks like to me.

Jim - I got my parts for both the ZF5 awa the BW1345 from Midwest Transmission. Here's a link to their BW1356 listings, but I don't see the stamping. However, I'd call them to see what they have. They were extremely helpful to me and I'll use them for anything I can.

Yes, Andre, the factory shop manual sets are available in two versions - in the original paper and on CD. Originally there were usually three books in the set: Body Chassis Electrical Engine Pre-Delivery Maintenance Lubrication The most cost effective approach appears to be this one on CD. It includes those three volumes but also three more, including the EVTM. However, I will have to tell you that most of the people that are scanning these documents and creating pdf's aren't making the pdf's searchable. Basically what you are getting is pictures of the pages. But if you are handy with a computer, or know someone that is, you can usually run an optical character recognition program against the files and make them searchable, which is a big help. But, if you'd prefer paper copies they are available as well. In fact the company that has the CD's says they have paper.

What I'm waiting for are the gaskets to seal the box to the firewall, but I've ordered those for Big Blue as well as the full kit for Dad's truck. It is from Detroit Muscle Technologies and includes: Blower Motor to Engine AC Heater Box Seal (Engine Side) - .187 foam rubber - Ford part# D9AZ-18N260-A AC Heater Box Air Intake to Firewall Seal (Engine Side) - .437" foam rubber - Ford part# E5TZ-19B762 Heater Core Tubes to Firewall Seal (Interior Side) - .625" foam rubber Dash Ducts to Main Interior Plenum Seal (Interior Side) - 1" charcoal foam Main Interior Plenum to Firewall Seal (Interior Side) - 1" charcoal foam AC Heater Box Air Exhaust to Firewall Seal (Engine Compartment Side) - .25" charcoal foam

Which one? I think I have several that have gone walkabout. Those things seem to have legs.

Cory - I must have been typing my last response when you posted. But I'm not sure I understand. Are you saying having classes for Bronco, F100, F150, F250, F350, Flareside, DRW, Crewcab, Supercab, Regular cab, Dentside, Bricknose, etc? What do we do with earlier trucks like the F1? Or Model T, which we've had. The classes above, not including the F1 and Model T, add up to 12. That's starting to get expensive as I'm buying the trophies and shipping them to wherever the winner is, which could be Poland or Australia. And that wouldn't even include all possible entries. I'm thinking we need to use generic categories that will fit whatever gets entered. So with the previous input I'm now thinking: Best Engine; Best Upgrades; People's Favorite; Closest To Stock; Ugliest Truck; & Longest Owned. But I'm still looking for input from y'all. And some caveats. For instance, on Best Engine and Best Upgrades they have to be installed. In other words, my plans to put an inverter as well as an air compressor in Big Blue don't count towards Best Upgrades since they haven't been installed - even though I already have them. But, Dad's engine is installed so would count. Will that work? Last, I think we need to say that if a truck wins one class/category it can't win again. So, as an example, assume a truck gets the most votes, 500, in Best Engine and the most votes, 400, in Best Upgrades. In that case it will win Best Engine and we will disregard its 400 votes in Best Upgrades and that award will go to the truck that got the next most votes. Ok?

Thanks, Shaun. Let me see if I can get a 9/16" to work. That's .563" and a 14mm should be .551". Perhaps it'll fit and we can both have a solution.

Sorry, Bill. We tried to keep it here but it ran off. I'll keep on looking as I really should have two of them. I took two out of the fixed-length panhard rod, but one is AWOL. The problem is that the opening is too big for a 1/2" and not big enough for a 5/8". I wonder if I have any 9/16's?

Steve - Longest owned might be an option. Thanks. Jonathan - You have a point about the Best Paint category. That's really hard to tell in-person, so maybe we ought to scratch that one and replace it. On Closest To Stock, what if we leave it to the owner to tell us what isn't stock - assuming s/he is wanting it to be part of that category? As for the polls, I can only put one poll in the first post of a thread, so we'll have to have a thread for each category. But I do have the option to turn viewing off before the poll is over, so will plan to do that.

That's a nice looking set, and with the vacuum pump included for that price it looks like a winner.