Gary Lewis

A part with ID # F2TA-9726-DA will have part number F2TZ 9725-?, and the ? may be a D. But I have no way of knowing. I think the best thing we can do is to get our hands on all of the different variations and measure the distance from the pivot to where the cable attaches. And we need to make sure we agree on how to do that measurement. Then we can create a chart and know the answers to our many questions. So, if you buy it then I'd suggest measuring from the center of the pivot to the bottom of the slot where the cable attaches. That won't be the center of the cable, but it will be much easier to measure. And, maybe we should measure from the top of the pivot and then include the diameter of the pivot so we can get an accurate measurement.

What is the size of this one? How tall are the ceilings?

Nice!

Good luck!

The red is one of the main things she wants to see. On the inserts, do you have them on order? The folks at Midwest Transmission have been good to get parts to me pretty quickly.

You've just proven the point. The cross-reference I have digitized doesn't go back to E0, but it does have E2. And sure enough, part number E2TZ 9725-A has an ID # of E2TA 9726-CA. Any number on a part is not a part number. And while not all parts got an ID #, the vast majority did if you look closely enough.

No, you didn't tell me. But that's an area that Janey and I want to explore - some day. Hope you get your parts soon and they are all that's needed.

Funny you mention that, I've had a couple people ask me where I got the seat-belt stickers or whatever they are on the driver and passenger door windows. I don't think I even really noticed them prior to them asking, and now I see them every time I get in the truck. I like little things like that. It's funny what some people notice. I like the original dealer decal as a conversation piece. People often want to know the 'story' on the truck...where did it come from, what did you do to it, etc. Start writing that story as you'll need it for our upcoming show.

If you get to the salvage soon you can scope out the possibility of getting another harness. Then maybe the decision will be easier. But, many of the connectors in the pics have removable pins, so if you decide to use the harnii you have then you could remove the pin and replace the wire. But that is very tedious. So, maybe graft the wires from another harness in - assuming you can find another?

Morning. I've now read the bit about Torque. If I understand correctly, you run the application called Torque on an Android device and it connects to the Arduino via Bluetooth. And you connect the sensors to the Arduino. So basically all you are using Torque for is the display. As for the senders, most of the gauges in the your truck have one wire and use the engine as the return, with an exception being the fuel tank which should have its own ground wire as the straps don't ground very well. But those senders are going to a gauge that has no smarts and just uses the current to generate heat, so variations get damped out very easily. But obviously the Arduino is smart and can read the info from the sender several times per second. So if there is noise on it the Arduino will get varying results. But varying results can easily be averaged by the Arduino. In my case I plan to just tap into the wire from the coolant temp and oil pressure senders and read the voltage, which I think will be nicely damped due to the large current being sent to the gauges. And battery voltage will be easy as well. But the tranny temps will require new circuits. What senders do you plan to use? You could use stock coolant temp senders, if they read the right range, and use the same approach as the ones for the gauges. But you'll need a bit stronger voltage regulator for the ICVR. I think I spec'd two in the write-up, and the larger one should be fine to handle two more senders. And for that, all you'd need is maybe #16 wire. One wire per sender, assuming the transmissions are grounded. But if you are going with another type sender then small coax won't hurt as you'll use the shield as your ground to prevent noise on the wire. However, the wire size in whatever coax you use will be overkill. So a Cat 6 will work and give you more capability than you need. Or two Cat 5's.

Scott - I'll follow that link in the morning. But for now, I don't think you want to get into multiplexing sensors on a single wire. So plan on at least one wire per sender and two, signal and ground, would be better. And your plans are very similar to mine. I intend to have the Arduino provide not only everything but the tranny temps, but to have an alarm when one of them is over or under the reading. So, we need to work together on this. The Arduino has plenty of power to do all we want it to do.

This story sounds familiar. Where have I heard it before? Wait! I've told it time and time again!

If you ever get through to Bill/Numberdummy he will tell you what he's told me: Since 1965 Ford has never put a part number on a part. The number on a part is the ID or engineering #. He gave me three cross-reference books to go from ID to PN or vice versa. Most ID #'s have the same generic # as the part number. But, for whatever reason, throttle pedals have a 9725 part number and a 9726 ID #.

Bill - The valve cover did turn out nicely. Hope you get the car together soon. Rusty - The Magnaflow is much better than the Flowmaster in the video, but it is still too loud for my tastes. I'm wanting something a little quieter. But thanks for posting those links.

Yes, the forum is slow. But Pedro is working his magic this weekend, and we may get to move to a better server soon. On the t-case, is it time to cut your losses and get another from the salvage and rebuild it? I sounds like you have lots of problems.

Yep, I agree. I think this is the one Shaun is thinking of:

I really like that. It is a neat touch. Well done!

Did you paint and powder coat a whole bunch of the brackets and fasteners? That's the impetus for the ground cable.

Thanks, Jim. Notice I didn't chase the powder coating rabbit when dealing with the skid plate? My theory is that it'll get banged on, so why PC it? But I do want it clean. As for the center of the onion, I dunno. Haven't been there in a looooong time, and I forget. Perhaps have a Bloomin' Onion? On the wire, now I'm pretty sure the system can handle all the current the alternator can deliver. And with the inverter and winch, it may just get a chance to do so.

Maybe was visiting his cousin? But, perhaps you are onto something. A Tweaker Of The Week thread where people post their "finds"? I thought I was way ahead with Big Blue, but Jonathan may be closing in on me.

I'm along for the ride! It was about 10 years ago that I built, or had built, my shop. Was an epic effort, but it was WELL worth it. So I'm sure yours will be as well.

No! I don't wanna slow down! You'll just have to forget the background and read the daily digest.

Thanks, Dane.

Man, that looks like a mess! I've had "fun" fixing Big Blue's wiring, but at least his wasn't that badly hacked. That doesn't look like fun.

Yipes! The Mityvac MVA6850 Pressure Bleed Adapter Kit is $167! I thought I wanted a set, but I don't think so. However, I may go to the salvage and see if I can find a cap and gasket from a clutch master cylinder that will fit Big Blue. That's basically all I need at the moment in addition to the one I made for the brakes. As for the different bleeder sizes, I can tell you aren't up on the changes to Big Blue. That's a 1995 D60 solid front axle under there, with bigger brakes and larger calipers. And apparently they come with larger bleeder screws.