Gary Lewis

That http:// being loaded in the field already has bitten me plenty of times, so I agree it should be taken out. However, after you suggested it I've checked and cannot find what generates it. So I'll ask my mentor, Greg, if it is something I can change and, if so, where it is.

That is really interesting! Thanks for the info and for the video links. I had no idea that the crews lived on those rail cars. Nor how they worked. But the newer vehicles sure seem to have made huge changes. Vacuum tubes on a rail car!?!? I wouldn't think they'd last long with the motion. We used to talk about wheels that had been badly flat-spotted breaking the rail as they turned so there would be breaks X inches apart. Did you ever encounter that? Was that an old wives tale?

Looks great! With all those welds it isn't going to go ANYWHERE! I think that's a winner.

I agree. And I'm guessing it is an ignition timing problem. But if you think it is timed correctly I'd suspect a slipped harmonic balancer. I've seen many of them and if yours is slipped and you use it to set the timing you'll have very poor performance. The accurate way to check the balancer is via a piston stop. But you can get close enough with a straw or even a screwdriver to determine if your balancer has slipped. Pull the plugs and turn the engine over slowly by hand until you feel pressure coming up on #1 plug. Stop and put a straw or some such in down against the piston and then turn the crank slowly, stopping when the straw stops coming up. That should be really close to TDC and your balancer should show that. And there's also the timing chain, as Steve suggested. If it is really slack or, worse, has jumped time, you'll have poor performance.

Thanks, David. Didn't get to work on the truck today. We needed to shop for a new dishwasher, the electric kind, so went to Owasso because I wanted to see them in person 'cause I'm particular about how I like to put the dishes and silverware in. And when we got home I put up documents on overdrives and scanned in an '84 owner guide. Unfortunately this takes a whole lot of time, so didn't get to the truck.

There are lots of people on here that know far more than I do. I'm just the "research librarian" - I usually know where I put things.

Yes, please mail it. I have quite a stack. But, is the book loose leaf? And is it stapled in the middle? I'm getting ready to scan a 1984 owner guide and it has the pages stapled in the middle. So when you pull the staples you have something like Page 16 on one side and Page 209 on the other. I have to scan them, duplicate each page, and then crop the pages. 'Tis a PAIN. But 40 pages won't be too bad.

There's a "sock" on the end of the pickup in the tank. Some have said that they get clogged and cause problems like this. The solution is supposedly to put compressed air on the line just before it gets to the fuel pump and if the sock is clogged it'll get blown off the end of the tube in the tank. The socks are very coarse mesh, so they only keep out really big things. I like to run a clear plastic filter just ahead of the fuel pump to catch anything coming from the tank, and think that would be the way to go instead of flushing the tank. As for the gauge, the sending units in these trucks are pretty bad about failing, especially if not used for a long time as the moisture in the tanks attacks the resistor and slider in the sending unit. I think the gauge problem is separate from the engine problem, so would try to address them individually.

Jonathan - I have the two DN documents on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Over-Under Drive and the Doug Nash and then DNE2 tabs. However, it appears there are pages missing in the Manual. Looks like pages 2 & 5 are missing - unless the last page is one of them. Scott - I don't want to host something that shouldn't be out there. What do you think about contacting GVOD, giving them a link, and asking if we can put it there? As for notifying people, I wish! Maybe after we get a copy of Nabble running on our own server we can figure that out?

That's a serious truck! I like it. Tell us where you are located?

Yes, get it home and then figure out what you have and what you should do to fix it. But in the pic below I think I see a TFI module on the distributor. It is an aluminum thing, and if you have it you won't have one of these on the driver's fender liner: As for the pics, you've run afoul of the poor pic uploading s/w on this forum. How to use it is explained in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. But I took the liberty of editing your pic and show it here:

No, we are basically in Tulsa. It was our son and his family that lived there. But they moved about three years ago. I don't think a fuel tank flush will fix it. I'm guessing they didn't replace the hose from the tank to the hard line. It is a pain to get to, but you should be able to lower the tank via the straps enough to get to it. Or put a board and a floor jack under it to lower it just enough to reach up there. Having said that, the TFI ignition might be able to break down with heat and give a poor spark. It is notorious for failing due to heat, but I think the failure mode is usually from "on" to "off" rather than a weak spark. But you could test for that when it fails by checking for a weak, yellow or red, spark. If it is the TFI then you need to decide your path forward. As said, they were notorious for failing due to heat. Ford later moved the module to the fender to get it away from the heat of the engine, so you could do that. But, that would still use the ECU and feedback carb, assuming you have them, and you may want to eliminate them and go with a non-feedback carb and DS-II ignition. I'm just laying out options so you don't run off and throw money at it and find you might have wanted to go a different way.

Yep, Jim is correct. Stock size seal and lube. But make sure you use the adhesive that is with the redi-sleeve as not only does it ensure it doesn't come off, it seals it so oil doesn't find its way under the seal. Many parts stores have them in stock.

Cool! We used to drive close to your house as we took Shaw through the neighborhood. No, the limp-home mode won't reset. That sounds like a fuel problem. I had a similar problem when the rubber hoses turned to mush on two of my trucks. Apparently the old hose material doesn't like ethanol and in one case it was so sticky that I balled the hose up and it stayed that way. Rubber was used between the tank and the hard line on the frame, and again from the hard line to the fuel pump. If it gets porous, as mine did, it'll let air in and that kills the vacuum that the pump uses to move gas. But it doesn't do it instantly, it takes time and I got about 20 minutes of driving before it couldn't pump any more gas. I bought new fuel line in bulk that is ethanol rated and changed out all of the hoses. Problem solved. That may not be your problem, but it might be.

Congrat's, John! Well done! On the damper, they make a "redi-sleeve" that presses over the seal area and covers the grooves. They work well. As for the seal inside, I think that is actually RTV on the washer. If I remember correctly the FSM (Documentation/Engines/Windsor) says to add RTV to the damper and the washer as you install them, but you should read up on that for yourself. As for the grass, I mowed ours yesterday also. So now I'm enjoying the rain! Edit: The FSM has you turn the engine one way to tighten the chain, and then back the other way to put all of the slack on the side towards the fuel pump. You measure from where it was taut to where it is when slack.

I missed the highway speeds question. The Broncos typically came with 3.50 gears, and with the C6 you'll be turning ~2750 RPM at 65 MPH. It should do fine on the highway. However, that's well above the "sweet spot" in RPM for the 300 six, which is about 1000 RPM lower, so it isn't going to get stellar MPG. And it may not want to run a whole lot faster as that engine doesn't like to spin all that fast - it is a great engine but is a low RPM/high torque unit. I've not driven a 300/C6 combo so I really can't say. Perhaps someone else can? I know Matthew/Dorsai has a pickup with the 300/C6 combo, as outlined here, but he has 2.75 gears. Maybe you need to figure out what gears that Bronco has? Decode the certification label on the page at Documentation/Specifications/Certification Label. Or go directly to Documentation/Specifications/Axle Ratios.

Welcome! We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and with your permission we can add you. Little Italy in STL? Our kids used to live at Tower Grove Park, across the street from Ices, and we've been to and through The Hill many times. Is that where you live? On the Bronco, I think it sounds like a good one. According to our page at Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/Applications that Bronco should have the C6. That's a robust transmission but not good for MPG since it doesn't have an overdrive and the torque converter doesn't lock up. As for the lack of power, I think that the truck may have the EEC-III system that controls engine timing and even the air/fuel ratio. And depending on what all they did they may have triggered limp-home mode on the ECU. Basically in that mode the ECU locks the timing to base or initial, meaning there is no advance. That kills power and economy. You can covert from what I suspect is the TFI ignition to the more simple DS-II ignition with not much trouble and that will eliminate the ECU. Or, if what they did can be put back, you may get it going again.

I was only a little kid in the Disco era, but my Mom's Maverick (with under dash tape deck) had a Blondie tape in it for years, and my stepfather's 1978 Ford 4x4 (also with an under dash tape deck) had Pink Floyd's The Wall in it, also for years. Meanwhile, even as a kid...the song on a constant loop in my head would have been mostly Jerry Reed's East Bound and Down, or Waylon Jennings theme to the Dukes of Hazzard...lol. While the song The Day The Music Died is all about the tragedy of February 3, 1959 when rock and roll musicians Buddy Holly, Ritchie Valens, and "The Big Bopper" J. P. Richardson were killed in a plane crash, I personally think the song was off by a decade. In other words, to me the golden era of music was the late 50's to August 1st, 1969. (Our wedding day.) Anyway, let's get back to the issue of the truck show. As of now it is official, there will not be an in-person truck show for 2020. No one has come forward with a compelling reason to have one, and all of the news we are getting is how things are getting worse rather than better here in the US. So now we need to decide exactly how we want to do a virtual show. Jim has suggested a series of polls to determine the best way, and since a poll can only be put in the first post of a thread, I'll have to start new threads for each topic. In other words, I'm going to un-pin this one and let if slowly drift down, and will create a few new threads with polls ASAP.

I agree that a power distribution box is the way to go. I used what is probably the same box, although mine was from a '95 F-Series, and it worked out nicely. If you want I have the wiring diagram I worked up for that box that I could share.

Yes, and no. A wider flange would work, except with the Holley the cable needs to be moved outboard a bit - closer to where I first had it and maybe farther outboard. And I didn't check the Street Demon as there's no stud on it. However a wider flange won't work on the Eddy 'cause the linkage won't reach the stud since the flange will run into the back of the carb. So it doesn't look like this approach is good for a "universal" bracket. But the boss isn't a problem. The top of the carb's base is ~1/2" above the boss, so as long as you stay above that it'll be fine.

It does look very solid. Seems the machine is working well.

These particular tubes take non-shunting tombstones. All of my tombstones are the shunting style, which means that the tombstone connects the pins together on that end. Instead, these tubes want positive and ground to come in on the same end, and there are no connections to the other end. So I have to change out the tombstone on the end to which there will be power. Perhaps I bought the wrong style tubes? Perhaps there are shunt-style tubes where you put power on one end and ground on the other? That way I'd just have to snip the wires as you said.

My understanding is that auto body shops can change the VIN tags. And supposedly they can get the right rivets. At least that's what my paint/body man told me.

The Aluminum Four Barrel was a great carb, but the Air Valve Secondary was better. The ability to adjust the the opening of the secondaries with an allen wrench and a small screwdriver was magic compared to grinding weight off or welding it on after disassembling the whole carb. A 1971 Duster 340 ran good! I remember one hanging with my '69 Bee quite well. (And, by the way, the 383 on my Bee had an AVS, not a Holley. Long story if you are interested.)