Gary Lewis

Wow! That '83 really looks SHARP! I love it! The '84 looks good as well, but that tutone paint on the '83 just pops.

That's a shame. But thanks for letting us know. Some times it helps to share a link to your post with the vendor so they see that they've been called out for real.

Angelo - Just email your entry to me.

Matthew - I think what you outlined is possible. Since you have two hinges you can: Raise both hinges to raise the forward edge of the door up slightly Move both hinges in slighty to push the forward edge of the door in slightly Bring the top hinge back out smidge to bring the top edge of the door out a bit That won't "mess with the rear edge" much, but some. However you can pull the rear in or out with the striker bolt. But, if you bring the top edge of the door out you will bring the bottom in some unless the whole door moves out.

Will the VIN number tell you? Assuming that’s the correct one. I didn't realize that they did away with the Swiss cheese frame during '81. I thought it was between '81 and '82. But it doesn't look like this one has the holes, so I guess Shaun's right. Dane - I don't think the VIN would tell us anything. The build date would help us understand when the change happened though. We have the info from both Rusty and Dad's truck, and several others I'm sure that might help us figure it out.

Yes, I would assume that the stainless lines are the better way. I think my way is going to work fine, but I've realized that there's probably a better way as I have three transitions where there's flex: frame to engine at the new stay; engine to cab at the fuel pressure regulator; and fuel pressure regulator to engine at the carb. But had I put the FPR on the intake manifold I'd only have had one. And yes, I will have to put some pressure on those rings to seat them. And I can't wait to do it!

Jim - Trust me, the muffler shop is absolutely on the to-do list before we go. Bill - I'm sure there are better ways to run the lines, but this one is going to work. It hasn't been easy, but I think it is good.

That Air Gap intake is for a 351 Cleveland. Being that this is a 400 block I started with, the deck height is 1" taller, so I had to have custom CNC built intake adapters made by Price Motorsports to bridge the gap between the manifold ports and the cylinder heads...no different than if you tried to use a 302 intake on a 351W. I'm waiting on them to ship out. Looking good, Angelo! Those are impressive numbers. You are going to love it! I have a Trick Flow EFI upper and lower plenum for the Cleveland engine, so will use the Price Motorsports adapters on Dad's 400. They are a good problem solver.

Yes, Rob, I am! I'm hoping to install the fuel line stay tomorrow, which will let me connect the hoses, and then install the carb. With that installed I'll re-connect the batteries and find out where the fuel gauges read with empty tanks. (They are the later senders, which have a completely different resistance range.) Then I want to add 5 gallons to each tank and record where the gauges read. After that I want to bypass the oil pressure switch and bring the pumps on to check the fuel system for leaks, set the pressure on the regulator, etc. Then I just need coolant and lots of lubricants and I can fire it.

Had an interesting trip to town to get three 3/8" NPT to 3/8" right angle hose barbs, 6' of 3/8" EFI hose, and at least six EFI hose clamps. Went to the hardware store and they only had two of the hose barbs. So I had to go with a 1/4" NPT to 3/8" right angle barb and a 3/8" to 1/4" bushing. That took far longer than it should have, and was a harbinger of things to come. Then I went to my favorite parts store, an independent, where our guy DeWayne works. I told him I needed the hose and clamps and he said he didn't have the clamps, but went back to get the hose - and came out with 1', which was all he had. So I went on to the NAPA store, but they didn't have the clamps either, but did have the hose. John told me that O'Reilly's has the clamps and asked if I wanted the hose. You bet! Last time I was in O'Reilly's for EFI hose they tried to sell me the low pressure stuff. So I ventured over to O'Reilly's and drew one of the managers - a kid. I asked for EFI hose clamps and he came back with the standard worm gear hose clamps. Sorry, those aren't for EFI. Really? What's an EFI clamp look like? So I pulled one up on my phone. Oh! We have those. And he came out with all they had - six. Back at the shop I created the bracket for the fuel pressure regulator, put the regulator on the bracket and added the hose barbs, and then installed it on the truck. Then I put the fittings on the ends of the hose and clipped them into the fuel lines down below so I'd know where to cut the hose to connect to the FPR. Here you can see the FPR and the hose laying around. However, when you then look at the fuel lines from below you quickly see what I expected - the lines hit the cab's pinch weld, as I was afraid it would. Obviously that's not going to work, so I made this hose stay. It'll go under the head of the top left transmission/engine bolt and, hopefully, hold the hoses down below the pinch weld and then turn them up to head to the FPR - hopefully neatly missing the oil pressure switch.

I hadn't seen my link, which does go to a 404 error 'cause there is no Documentation/Exterior/Door page. It apparently got merged into Documentation/Body/Door Hinges Checks & Weatherstrips? But I was talking about Steve's writeup here: http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?6884-Door-Alignment

I don't know that any of us have gone through Steve's instructions step-by-step to "approve" them, but Steve usually knew what he was talking about so I'd bet they are good. Give them a shot and let us know, please.

Yes.

I'll defer to Bill on this as he knows more about it, but you have to be careful what carb you get. EGR started being introduced in the early 1970's, and it was done on passenger cars, then light-duty trucks, and then heavier trucks. So there were times when an F100 or F150 would have EGR and an F350 wouldn't. IOW, make sure the carb fits an early 70's F350.

Excellent! I'm happy to be wrong.

Here's a hit:

David/1986F150Six put a 1970's YF on his truck and it worked extremely well. Maybe he'll come along to tell us what the carb was off of, but I'll go see if I can find it....

That's cool! I've never seen one of those. As a kid I was of the opinion that those kinds of things weren't necessary, that the thermostat staying closed would cause the engine to get warm enough. Then we had a serious cold snap here in Okiehoma and it got to -14F. Our car wouldn't get warm w/o cardboard in front, and apparently no one else's would either as everyone had the radiator blocked off. So, it must be that it isn't the radiator but the engine block itself that has to be protected from the cold air?

Nice truck! As much as I love my factory mounted (external) tail lights and tailgate chains, this one looks pretty clean without both. I assume he has custom latches mounted inside the gate...that's a pretty common mod. I assume it was originally a Styleside truck? The Hawks were a cool cars. And, they ran pretty well, although the Golden Hawk got the attention with the supercharger. Anyway, that Flareside is ..... unusual. As Jim said, you don't often see a winch bumper with a Flareside bed. So it is less than "smooth" in front, but with the taillights integrated into the bumper in the rear it is smooth back there.

Sorry, I forgot the question about Walmart. I Googled "steering wheel wrap" on their site and got this result. But all of the results say "sold and shipped by" someone else, so I'm not sure that they'd ship to you. Surely someone in Europe does steering wheel wraps?

Christian - Hope you had a wonderful vacation! Are the days starting to get very short there? You've made good progress on the truck. Well done! You seem to have solved two electrical problems and several other issues as well. Speaking of the truck, while you were away we announced that this year's truck show will be done virtually. So you should enter. See the page at Truck Shows/2020 Truck show for details. On the steering wheel, there were two: a thin and hard wheel that is very narrow, and one with rubber padding. Sounds like you have the thin/hard/narrow one. I've never tried adding padding to them, but that wrap should add some thickness to yours, although maybe not much padding. Anyway, welcome home! And happy trucking!

I don't think they come with races installed. But I think they come with the lugs installed as that is what holds the rotor to the hub. Installing races just takes a brass drift and a hammer. Don't use a steel drift as it'll ding the race. But a brass drift is quite inexpensive, and surely you have a hammer?

Yes, GOAT is Memory Lane. Big Blue would remember it quite well since he's been there several times already. But having perused the whole 458 miles, I'm not sure it is what we are looking for. I see several places where they jump on the blacktop when they could have stayed on gravel roads. I think we'll keep that in mind, but might consider farther south where it is more rugged. We shall see. But I have to get the truck on the road first!

Yes, I couldn't see the screw holes. But I believed you. Confusing Scott and Jonathan is easy - both really good guys.

Jim - I think that was Scott, not Jonathan. Anyway, bummer on twisting the link off. But, as Scott said, they rust out. The ones I have from the '95 for BB's D60 front axle are very thin. So I think your plan to buy new ones is the way to go.