Gary Lewis

That would be great! Thanks, Angelo.

For that price it is well worth a try. Let us know, please.

Yes, it does look pretty realistic. Well done! As for the stair truck, I've seen several of those over time. And we recently watched something set back in the 90's and I saw a Bullnose. Don't think Janey appreciates me backing it up to see, so I just comment - which may not be appreciated either.

Rob - In my experience the cast iron master cylinders leak brake fluid where the top meets the body, and the brake fluid will destroy the paint. The leak is caused by a rough surface at the top of the master, and I've had to resort to filing it to get the cap to seal. But to make sure I didn't get filings in the master I stuffed paper towels in it to capture the filings. And that meant I had to bleed the brakes again. But it worked. Your new master might not leak, but I'd drive it awhile to see before painting it. Jim - that might work. I've strapped the seat folded down, but a board might get you over the sub. You'll just have fun getting it out. Dunno about the insulation, but a heated piece of tubing should cut a hole in the sound deadener nicely.

Bill - I'll have to go looking. Jim - Good luck on the seat. I can't imagine getting it in by myself w/o hitting a sub. It is tough enough w/o anything in the cab.

John - First, any number on a Ford part is not a part number. Has been that way since 1966. It is an ID or Engineering #. And, the MPC doesn't show any parts of of the controls, other than the switches, so I think you'll have to find a new/replacement control. Here's the entry from our page at Documentation/HVAC/HVAC Systems with the part numbers.

Rob - Glad you got the booster changed out. It seems they'll go for a very long time hissing, but it sure is nice when they don't. Angelo - That's cool stuff. I've not ever seen that. May need to try it. Do you get it in rolls?

Yep. That's what I thought. My hoses from Huck would have plugged right into the filter on the supply side and had a double-barb to join on the return. Still don't know where I got the stainless tubes. They must have come with Huck but were just loose.

A 300 is big? Long maybe. But a 460 is big. As for disassembling a '95 to put a Bullnose body on it, I think that's a wonderful change. A big improvement in looks for the '95 and an improvement in fuel system if you keep the EFI'd 5.0L. Win-win! But, this is a weekend? I guess I'll just keep chugging on Big Blue. Day in and day out.....

Look underneath. They may have just stuffed something in there. Yes, I never find that a "10 minute job" takes that little time. They always take me several times more than expected. As for the catalog, one of our members is head of LMC's Ford R&D department. Check out this thread. He is a stickler for detail and has assured us that the term Stepside will not appear in their Ford catalogs in the future. Instead the correct term of Flareside will be used.

Jim - I don't think we have the part numbers. At least not where I can find them. But, I've purchased from Quick Start and here's their listings. But I don't see anything more than a 2.5 second delay. So perhaps we need to compile a part number list and put it on the alternator page.

Supposedly you can post videos from Youtube, Vimeo and LiveLeak by clicking the Formatting button. However, I've not had much luck doing that. So what I do is to put my videos on Youtube and then grab the "embed" code when you click "Share" on Youtube. Then tick the box in the upper left of the editor page that says "Message is in HTML Format". Then you can paste the embed code in your post. However, when you do that you'll soon learn that hitting "enter" in your post doesn't get you a line feed. Instead you need click the Formatting button and then the Line Feed button. Does that help?

Bill - So they later went with stainless tubing after hoses to come down the tranny. Interesting. But I think the approach I'm going with will work just fine. As for the shield, that's a good idea. It shouldn't be hard to do that to protect the filter area.

Welcome. I'm glad you like the place. There are really good people over on the other place, but I like the ability to manage things for ourselves. We aren't doing things to make money. In fact, going to another server will actually cost, but needs to be done to ensure we have the response times we need. We really need to go to another server ASAP. Having to refresh, which I also have to do often, is not the way things are supposed to work. It is time to move!

I'm with Jim. From what I've read a single vee belt will only support generating ~90 amps. You can use a slow-start regulator, but that will just keep the belt from chirping on startup. If it ever tries to go full-tilt the belt will probably scream, and if you continue it'll melt and fail.

Yes, I hate cutting those clamps. But I have been known to use a Dremel on the ends to smooth them. And in this case the clamp can be taken to the bench grinder to smooth it up once I cut it off. And, speaking of the fuel filter, for which the clamp is intended, I got it on today. But, I learned something - the fuel filter takes a 5/16" connector on both sides, even though it is in the supply line where all the other connectors are 3/8". So, I ran short of 5/16" connectors and had to order two more. Anyway, here 'tis: Once that was done I put a set of fuel rails on the engine with the supply and return pigtails connected. Unfortunately that meant the carb and coil had to come off, but I needed to make sure I knew where the ends of the pigtails will be so I can match them with the fuel lines. Here's a shot of the fuel rails on, and I've added a red arrow for the supply pigtail's connection to the fuel rail and a green arrow for the return's connection. Here's the other end of the pigtails. Their are pretty solid where they are, but if you look closely between them up towards the curve you can see a hole in a bracket that goes over the bell housing bolt and that makes them quite solid. Then I played with where to put the stay that bolts to the frame. Here's where I think I want to put it as it will allow a fairly gentle curve for the lines as they come out from under the transmission crossmember. The only issue I have to work out is if I can put its fasteners there as that's quite a busy area. And here's where the lines go. However, right now the lines are too long and go past the pigtails. That is good as I'm about out of fuel line! Sure hope I have enough. And, before Jim asks, that position of the stay gives maximum spacing between the exhaust and the fuel lines. And that's 5". I'll put the hoses over the lines, as shown in the pic, but I plan to also put some of the insulation over them as well.

Yes, that's better. But more would help. As would a cross section shot of it.

Angelo - That's intriguing. But, can you take a much closer pic?

I don't see any dots or #'s on mine. But I can blow through it all three ways, so it isn't clogged. And I'm not going to use it so it is free to a good home.

The ones with velour didn't get the welt. And the passenger's side seat would have the lever on the other side - if it has one. May not have one as that side was mounted on an ejector seat/tilt mechanism and the whole seat tilted forward. So may not have had the lever. I can look if needed. Yes, I know that seat appears to be on the driver's side, but they might have put the wrong one there.

That's what I'm thinking has happened - the screen is plugged. I'll look to see what size mine is.

Looks like my Bronco Captains Chairs:

Welcome, Scott. The forum is just two years old but is growing dramatically. As of today we have 792 members. And posts are coming in so rapidly that I can't keep up - and I'm loving it! Plus the size of the backups are growing exponentially, with them being essentially 0 in size two years ago and up to 3.4 Gb today. Note that those backups include our pictures as well as the posts. So when we move everything goes with us.

The K&N might hold fumes better than a paper filter. As for blowing into the separator, the outlet to the return is just an orifice. So you should be able to blow through easily inlet to outlet or reverse, but inlet or outlet to return should be restricted.

Bill - You are right, he's sorta done that test. But, maybe not on purpose? Scott - I have an extra one of those separators if you need it, no cost. But, in reality I'd put a return-style pressure regulator on in its place. And I have one of those, NIB. Yours for half of new price if you want it.