Gary Lewis

Rusty - Here's a pic to explain the problem better. The distance between the tank and the frame's bottom flange is 2". And the distance between the two white retainers is 7 1/2". So adding the runs to/from the tank to the wyes with the tank in place would just not have been possible. I can just barely get my hand up there, and both of them are scratched up from doing so with the way I chose to do it. Anyway, what I'm doing now is to make a spot for the relay box and for the fuel filter. There are two spots big enough, and the one behind the t-case gets the relay box 'cause it is right where the switching valve was. And the one just in front of the t-case gets the filter. Pics later.......

That's really good to know. Thanks for sharing.

Welcome! Glad you joined. We have sorta twins - my Big Blue is an '85 F250 w/a 460 and it came w/a T-19. But, there have been a few changes along the way. So, if your truck is "from down south" that suggests you are "up north". Where? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and would love to add you if we had a city or zip. Chat? We LOVE to do that! And help each other resolve problems. So, again, welcome! Hope you'll start a thread in the main section (where you'll get more followers than here) about your truck. Or in Projects. Your choice. And, post pics. Speaking of pics, posting them can be a pain, so see the info on that in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. Also, there is info in there on creating a signature. Those are helpful to us 'cause they tell us about your truck and let us answer your questions more accurately. Last, don't miss that we are having a virtual truck show, and now that you've joined the forum you can enter the show. Go to Truck Shows/2020 Truck Show in the menu to read about how to enter.

Nice little Bronoco. But I'm not familiar enough with them to know how serious that rust might be. Doesn't look too bad, but....

David/1986F150Six is good, isn't he!

Do you have any pics of that stuff, Angelo? Don't know that I've seen it.

Don't forget that I have two tanks. And you can't get to the top of the rear tank when it is in place. But I wanted to start from the rear, so I made up the push-lock connectors, got the tank close by hanging it with ratchet straps, and made the connections. After the tank was finally in place I ran the lines along the frame and clipped them into the white retainers until I got to the place for the wyes. There's a little 9" spot between two of those retainers where the wyes go, and since the front tank's side basically seals that spot off when it is in place I realized the wyes needed to be made up next. So I had to guess at how long the feeders to the front tank should be, and erred on the too-long side so I could shorten them if needed. Another step I forgot to mention is that I covered the lines with convolute. There are several places where they aren't supported well enough to prevent them from moving and potentially chafing on the frame. In fact, the lines I took out had several spots where they'd chafed. So I figured the convolute would help prevent that.

Rusty - That approach didn't look like it would work in this case. The wyes are in the frame rail beside the tank, so you can't get to them to work on them when the tank is in place. Given that, did the wyes first and I measured the tank lines I took off and made my lines that length. But they were too long, as I discovered. Bill - Yeah, I have the tool but not the whole kit. Don't need the 45's and 90's, just the straight ones. And, all of the line I'm running is 3/8" instead of the smaller 5/16", so I don't need those. Saved a whole lot of money. Jim - I think you have gotten the picture. But just in case, here's the training video from Dorman. I'm starting it at 1:00 where they actually get to using the tool, but you can back it up if you want.

A big enough pair of grips would hit something, surely.

Yes, progress is good. But it sure seems slooooow. When the goal is in sight it really seems like everything goes into sloooooow moooootion...... But, I do think I'll have it started in a few weeks. By the way, I posted in the wrong thread, but to tighten the cab mount bolts I put a breakover/socket combo on the bolts and had it up against the door or the back of the cab depending on the bolt.

I forgot - to tighten the cab bolts I put a breakover w/a socket on the top, and had it up against the door or the back wall. It was tedious, but it worked.

I'm still waiting for all those pics.... Sorry you got rained out. But at least you got cooled off.

I got the fuel lines run up to the point where the wyes go, cut the lines, and used the tool to put the wyes in. Here's a pic where I had just used the Dorman tool to put a wye in one of the lines. But note that I already have the line going off to the front tank on the wye. That's because I didn't want to heat the lines after I'd installed them on the wye, and I had to heat the line going to the tank since there's no adapter for the tool for wyes. But, the process worked. Speaking of the lines to the front tank, I got the front tank in place and discovered that while I could get the supply line on the return was too long. So I had to cut the line and graft another connector on - under the vehicle. Once that was done I tightened the bolts to the straps, but ran out of time to get the filler neck on. So that's on the agenda for tomorrow. As is making a fuel filter bracket - the filter came in so I have something to measure.

I would guess that the pop is an indication of too much fuel, with it pooled in the exhaust and getting ignited by the hot exhaust gas as the engine finally fires. So that could be the choke. Or, it could be gas dripping out of the carb, either due to too high of a float level or a leaking accelerator pump or power valve.

I've not spent much time around Ft Sill. But that's a stunning shot. On antique cameras, I have a few, inc a 1/4 plate one I got while in the UK. But, I've not used it. We may be ahead of you on countries, but some of them came in rapid waves, like during the Baltic cruise two years ago, and the Med cruise probably 10 years ago. And we ticked off another one on the Danube cruise, Hungary, although we'd been to all of the intervening countries many times before. But we did like that cruise. We liked the smaller boat, although even it seems way too big right now with the virus running rampant. We are thinking near-term travel will be by car/truck, and our years of doing even that are probably limited. Having said that, with a vaccine we do hope to get to go abroad a few more times and have several things we'd like to do. One is to travel Switzerland via train. Another is to visit Tuscany again, having just seen Made In Italy. And another is to take one of the barge cruises in France. So, perhaps the Adriatic coast could be squeezed in on one of those?

This is posted for David/1986F150Six. He has this 2 X 4 intake and the adapters are Clifford [6 = 8]. The adapters are A-0452 and are for mounting Motorcraft 2100/2150 carburetors. Not included in the photograph, but will be included in the sale, is the package of studs for attaching the adapters and carburetors. $500 plus freight

You are now on the map. And, I know that airport rather well, having spent many hours there. But, I suggest you create a signature to tell us about your truck. You can see directions for how to do that on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. The signature helps us help you w/o guessing about what you have. You'd be surprised how many differences there are in the 7 years the Bullnose trucks were produced, so knowing what you have helps us answer the questions much more accurately.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Are you in Charlotte? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if it really is Charlotte. As for the mechanic, is he supposed to be vintage? (Sorry, couldn't help myself. ) On the brakes, it sounds like the brake booster has a leak. There's a test on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then on the Overall tab and the General Brake Service tab. Then scroll down to Page 5. If the brakes work then it isn't urgent that you get that fixed as I've been around these trucks that have had that wheeze and they worked fine for years. But I'd bet that's the problem. On the dash lights, are the gauges just very dark? Or are they out? If dim, there are lots of things that can be done to help, but the usual issue is that the blue-green "filters" have gone opaque. They are there to give the lights a blueish tinge, but they get old and won't transmit the amount of light they should. They can be removed and that will add a lot of light. But, I think that the best approach is to pull the filters and install LED's. I've done a bunch of testing on a thread called Instrument Lighting & Paint Testing. But this post might be the most informative.

Progress is good! I know the hot, sticky blobs of rubber feeling, but not when the air is that thick. YUK! But the wiring looks good! As for the Acoustic Blanket, what I'm finding is most from Home Depot. Is that the stuff?

I'm trying to figure out what the condition might be that is causing the extra cranking. And it seems like it could be that the choke might be on but the engine not cold and not needing the choke. So, have you tried to floor the throttle when you start it after 40 minutes? That should kick the choke open, but it will also squirt fuel in via the accelerator pump. Conversely, have you pumped the throttle, thereby sending lots of fuel in. The results of these tests might be informative. I'm thinking you may have just a touch too much choke. But, it could be that the idle mix is a little lean and you don't quite have enough choke. How does it run when it finally catches? Does it act like it is partially flooded and has to run a bit to clear out?

That had to have been hard to find. So, what years was it used?

The camper is a 1986 Play-Mor II. It's basically the same as a Scamp, Casita or Boler. I will help with the website in any way that I can. Though my web skills are limited to the newspaper's site, as I am more of old-school, ink-in-my-veins type. I still know how to develop film. Yes, my partner is Dutch. I studied in Belgium, Slovenia, Switzerland, Austria, Poland and Hungary. Most of my time was spent in Budapest. I even picked up a bit of the language. An engineer? That's fascinating. My uncle was an engineer for 50+ years and I'm enthralled by his brain. He builds instruments and model airplanes now that he's retired. I'm drawn more toward the arts (I'm a landscape photographer in my free time ... I'll include a photo I shot in Oklahoma) but I've always had an interest in the more technical side of things as well. I guess you could say I'm a moderate. Wow! That shot is stunning! I've read a whole lot about photography, so I understand things like f-stop vs shutter speed, and the fact that it isn't completely linear due to reciprocity failure - although that varies by film type. And DoF. Composition and the rule of thirds, etc. But, I can't do anything but replicate what I've seen others do. I don't have "the eye". Anyway, I don't know what I'm asking for on the website. But please look around and if you see things that should be improved, please get back with me. On the trailer, I've seen those different brands from way back when we were into RV'ing. They were very popular. And easily-pulled. As for Europe, you've been around! Of the countries you mentioned the only one we've not been to is Slovenia, although that and Croatia are on the bucket list. And, while our boat docked almost under Chain Bridge, we didn't really pick up any of the language.

I bought an '85 w/a 351HO that had "some electrical problem". Turned out that the oil pump had seized and broken the oil pump/distributor drive shaft. So, if I were you/your father I'd pull the dizzy and reach in with a 5/16" socket, securely taped to an extension or two, and see if the drive shaft will turn. It should spin the oil pump, and if you turn it counter clockwise with a drill you should see oil pressure come up on the gauge. And obviously mark where the rotor is pointing before pulling the dizzy as you want to get it back to that same spot. Also, with it out check the gear on the bottom. Does it have broken teeth?

Bill - It can be done from the bottom, but it is a struggle. I'm tired of taking things apart to get other things installed. So I didn't really consider removing the bed as that would require lots of other work, like pulling the tool box, wiring harness, etc. And, speaking of tired of taking things apart, I'm going to take a shortcut on the fuel level sender wiring. In spite of all the recommendations against, I'm going to put a relay on the frame where the tank selector valve was. But, it isn't going to be just a relay. It'll be one of the these waterproof relays in a waterproof project box and using these waterproof glands for the wiring entry. I just can't face pulling more wire up or routing wire into the cab when it is so easy to put a relay where that tank valve was. Everything needed is there, so that part will be a piece of cake. And since it isn't a mission-critical system I'm going to do it. I've ordered 5 of the waterproof relays so will put one in the tool box, just in case.