Gary Lewis

Bummer! Yes, email them. And maybe include a link to this thread. And there's also the several Bullnose Facebook pages where you might want to give the folks a heads-up. People that do things like that need to be called out because of it. Maybe we need a folder where we store threads like this? Maybe called "Vendors To Avoid"?

Yes, I hope Christian can work his way through the test. Yesterday on one of "those" FB pages a guy was selling schematics from Mitchell. Said they are better than those you get from Chilton or garysgaragemahal. When I pointed out that the schematics and EVTMs on here are from Ford he called them "chicken scratchings".

Playing with our calculator (Documentation/Driveline/Calculators) the only way I can get an AOD to turn the engine close to 3k @ 65 MPH is to have 4.11 gears and be in 3rd gear. That way you'd be turning about 2900 RPM, assuming 31" tires. I don't think you are getting into OD. Yes, Espy needs to go back. BUMMER!

Yes, it is an expensive battery. I sure hope it comes back. But it had to have been the Battery Tender, so those little wires had to have just been pulling a small current continuously. On as opposed to Run? Interesting. I had assumed that On brought everything on. As for a wiring correction, I'm hoping that the wiring is good if it just gets 12v. But something isn't quite right about the fuel pump. The relay came in but the pump didn't. Oh well, I've been all over those circuits of late, so I can figure it out. Tomorrow, I hope!

Well done, Jim!

No, I don't have a master relay. But, here's what I think happened. I didn't have the positive cables on either battery so there's no way that leaving the key on drained the battery. But, I did have a little Battery Tender on that battery. However a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the lights were out on it and played with it enough to find out it was dead. No blown fuse or anything, just DEAD. So I threw it away. I think the Battery Tender drained that battery. The battery was at 2 1/2 volts when I checked today, but with my charger set on 10 amps it was up to 11.6 volts when I started testing. However, when I finally got a bit of load on it the voltage dropped to 9.5, so the load was obviously over 10 amps and the battery couldn't support it. I'll leave the charger on over night and hope for better results tomorrow. But, I did do some testing. Turns out that my ignition switch has two On positions. And the first one brings on the gauges but not the ignition. I was checking fuses when I discovered that, and with the key in the On position that brings on the ignition I jumpered the oil pressure switch and heard the fuel pump relay come in. But, the pump didn't run, or at least I couldn't hear it and we didn't have pressure on the gauge. And, that would explain why the fuel gauge relay didn't work - no juice to it. So tomorrow, hopefully with a charged battery, I can do some more testing.

No, I didn't burn the coil out. How can I tell - it isn't installed. I pulled it a few days ago to put the fuel rail on as it sits where the front of the rail goes. I just jumpered across the oil pressure switch and the front pump didn't come on. So I checked and there's no juice to that switch. In fact, there's no power to the coil's horseshoe bracket. So, somewhere I have something wrong that is preventing power from getting to the fuel pump circuit, which is probably why the sender relay isn't working, and is also preventing power from getting to the ignition.

I'm wrong on those numbers. The 1987 EVTM says "If the Gauge System Tester is unavailable, check gage calibration with 210 ohm (high) and 10 ohm (low) resistors." (Yes, the tester is spelled "gauge" and Ford refers to a guage as "gage".) So I take that to mean that the sender should have 210 ohms when the tank is full and 10 ohms at empty. Similarly the '85 EVTM says 10 ohms on high and 73 ohms on low. So the 7/8 tank reading I got with the tanks dry is a bit low as it should have shown Full. And it is interesting that you mention 7/16's as that is the reading I get with 5 gallons in the front tank. Unfortunately I get that reading on both tanks with 5 gallons in the front and and the rear tank dry. So the relay isn't working.

Got a bit more done, and am now awaiting the battery charger getting the starting battery up to snuff so I can test the fuel sending units. (Please don't ask what idiot left the key on, although the battery was supposed to be disconnected. ) With the tanks absolutely dry the sending units should be @ 22.5 ohms when the tank is empty - and 145 ohms full. Given that I expect the gauge to read close to Full when the tanks are dry. We shall see. In the interim, here's the report to this point. First, I got the fuel line stay installed under the bell housing bolt, remembering to put PTE on the threads again. Then I spent a grueling time leaning way over the engine and getting a 6mm bolt started into the stay through the rubber-lined hose clamps. Once that was done I checked below to see how the lines cleared the pinch weld. The supply, which is on the right in this pic, clears nicely but the return only clears by 1/8". However, it is held down to the tranny pretty tightly due to the curve of the hose. Still.... So I added a split hose on the pinch weld. It won't go anywhere as the fuel line is pushing up against it. I doubt the cab would hit the line, but having the hose protecting it makes me feel better. Then I moved on to the regulator itself. Here 'tis with the carb on and it is all plumbed up: Now, if I could just get the fuel sending units tested I'd pour gas in and see if by jumpering that oil pressure switch I could get fuel pressure.

Welcome! Glad you got what you wanted.

The whole shooting match or the adapters, or? Congrat's in any event!

And, are there any numbers on it?

John - I don't have a message from you anywhere, including in the spam folder. (Yuk! There are AWFUL things in there!) So can you post what you got back as a response? (Yes, it'll have my email address, but I'm not worried.)

There were no forums back then. Not even an internet. So the individual didn't have much of a platform from which to complain. Had we had forums like this in '69 Holley would have heard of my problems, very quickly. And they then might have said something like "If you'll take it to the dealership there's a fix for our stupidity." Many times I heard that "Highland Park Hummingbird" and I knew my power valve was gone. Again. Had I known then that the AVS came on the 335 HP Bees and the 330 HP Bees got the awful Holley I'd have had an AVS right then and there. Problem solved. But I didn't learn that until later - after the internet came about and I joined a Super Bee forum.

I'm a Kicker fan 'cause their home is in Stillwater. (I'll be in Stillwater on Saturday for a funeral - it is that close.) And I've been in their plant. I'm not saying theirs is the best, but given it is local to me I tend to buy their stuff. However, there are lots of choices in that range of size and price, and you'd be hard pressed to go wrong. I'd suggest you look at the cone structure. I wouldn't go with paper or wood products. Instead, some form of plastic.

Shouldn't be just for a van with an E0TZ prefix, but let me look... Yup:

Yes, E0TZ 5E285-A is a "Deflector (inlet pipe)". It is part of parts lists 1, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 53, & 57. IOW, lots of trucks. Folks can look up what those parts lists fit by going to Documentation/Exhaust Systems and looking at the Part Numbers tab followed by the Parts List tab.

On the Autoline issue, it appears that they put out some ok stuff and some that is, obviously, bad. Apparently they just rebuild whatever comes in, so if a bad core comes in they may use it. So buying one of their products is a crap shoot. But I still think they should be aware of this thread and the very negative impression that carb has left on many of us. On the Chrysler/Holley thing, thanks for the info, Bill. I experienced all of what you outlined, and then some. As I'm sure you can imagine, that experience has warped me - pun intended. However, at the time I didn't lean on the dealers for repair. I had no idea that there was a kit for fixing that piece of junk. As said, it was my first Holley and I assumed they were all like that. And given that, I've done my best to stay far, far away from their carbs since then. I see a very good parallel between Troy's experience with Autoline and my experience with Holley. A customer's view of a vendor is very easily soured by selling them junk. And the vendor may never get an opportunity to correct that view as the customer may never darken their door again. In addition, the customer will tell others about that vendor's horrible products - for decades to come. Given my experience I won't buy a Holley carb, and given Troy's experience I won't buy anything from Autoline.

Well, that link sure didn't work. Try this one and then apply the filters you want: https://www.crutchfield.com/shopsearch/6_1%2F2_car_speakers.html#&nvpair=FFCategory|[rank399]Car%20Speakers&nvpair=FFSubcategory|[rank473750]6%22,%206-1/2%22%20%26%206-3/4%22%20Speakers

I think going with 6 1/2" speakers is a good idea. Will they be 2-way or 3-ways? I'd think 2-ways for the rear would be good. But while I used to pride myself as being an audiophile, I've been out of things for years. Having said that, my go-to place has always been Crutchfield, and a search of their site for 6 1/2" speakers with at least 4 stars finds several with excellent reviews in the $60 - $70 range. I like the Kickers, which have what looks like a 4.3 star rating out of 515 reviews.

Jim - Thanks for all the efforts. But I'm not sure it is a Yahoo issue. I realized that discussing the email addresses used here wouldn't be appropriate so I sent you and the other admins an email. He's been promoted to member via two different Gmail accounts and one Yahoo account. Let's see what transpires and which account he uses. Again, thanks for all the effort. It was very confusing.

Bill - As you know, but for the others, a Chrysler Holley was my first ever Holley. And I developed an intense dislike for them right then and there. I grew up on Carters, WCFB's & AFB's, and then learned about Rochesters - 2GC's and Q-Jets. Good, solid carbs. But the @#$%^&*( Holley on my brand new 1969 Super Bee was junk from Day 1. Forgetting that it was jetted way too lean, which was due to Chrysler trying to meet emissions, the body itself was warped. There was no way to keep the gaskets from leaking, and if you didn't drive it frequently the bowls would leak dry and the gaskets would shrink, so you then had major leaks. And due to the jetting it would frequently backfire through the carb and blow the power valve and/or the accelerator pump. So I can understand why you could buy those things for $4/each. And obviously even that low price was too much as he was stuck with them. Even the head of Conoco's machine shop couldn't square mine up enough to keep it from leaking w/o getting into passages. As I said, it was JUNK! And to add to that story, several years ago I was at Carlisle for the Chrysler Nationals. I took a pic of a survivor '69 Bee but the gentleman that owned it wasn't there at the time. Later I looked closely and realized there was an AVS peaking out from under that un-silenced air cleaner. But, given all else I knew about the car it should have had the same Holley as mine. I'd gotten his name and assumed that he lived w/in a couple hundred miles of Carlisle as he'd driven it there, so I called every person by that name until I found him. My first question was "Do you have an AVS on the car?" He said he did and I asked if it hadn't come with a Holley. He said it did but that it was JUNK and he quickly replaced it with the AVS, which had been on there for years w/o any problems. But, in this case he'd kept the Holley in case someone silly enough wanted to put the car back stock. Maybe it is worth more than $4 now?

Randy - Give it a few days. It takes a while for the material to soften up, and heat helps. It is supposed to be up to 95 most of next week, so that should help.

I kept a pair for years I planned to re-cone, and just never got it done. Initially it was because I couldn't decide what material to use as it needs to be both light and stiff. Also the surrounds play a big part and they kept coming out with better and better materials. In the end I bought new. But I didn't spend $300, much less $400. There are some decent-sounding speaker for less. What size are you looking for? What frequency range?