Gary Lewis

That's cool!

Cool! I thought I had too much already. I'll flesh it out a bit. And you are right, limited slip. And "U" code. Thanks!

Well, we got the answer back from AMIG. According to my insurance man "They only want to insure parked collector vehicles" and have "respectfully declined". So he is out of options. Given that, I'm stuck. Anyone have suggestions for other insurance companies to try?

Thanks!

Ok, I've gotten started on a document and have embedded it in the first post: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-s-Transformation-td28014.html. But I probably need to edit the first post itself as it may refer to the old document. No where near done, but let me know what you think of the approach.

That's cool! We had a camper on our '72 F250 and I always wanted one of those. But we never drove with someone in the camper, and crawling through the back window while underway would have been a big pain, so we never bought one. Still, it brings back some memories!

The AOD uses a Throttle Valve (TV) linkage from the throttle. It requires a precise adjustment or the tranny can be damaged. So the first thing I'd do is read the factory shop manual section on the AOD at Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmission/Automatic Overdrive (AOD) and adjust the TV linkage per the instructions. Beyond that, I'm not much help. Don't think I've ever driven a truck with an AOD, and certainly haven't owned one.

Given that you asked, and keeping in mind the differences between us that Jim just called out in my Bronco project thread ... If it were me (and it isn't) I would not try to index a thread with over 5000 posts. Threads, by their nature, meander, which isn't very conducive to indexing. What I'd do instead is write up a much simpler summary, saying what the outcome was rather than documenting the process. I suppose I might add a single link to each major topic, giving people a general starting point if they wanted to see the discussion of the process. But I might not even do that, because I think it would be too hard to feel good about finding the RIGHT spot for any given topic. That said, it isn't me, and I know that however you do this it will be a labor of love. So my main thought is: have fun with it! Bob - Maybe we aren't as different as it might seem. I'm starting to think that it will be really difficult to find "the right" post to link to for any particular topic. So just a writeup may have to do, as you suggested. And, you are right, it will be a labor of love. I want to get it "right" so it is easy for others, and particularly my son, to get his head around what I've done. So, I'll give it a go and y'all can critique it.

You are now on the map.

Check out my post back on FTE which has a tach signal on my scope. Perhaps that is what you need? As I think about it, I could put in a toggle switch in to determine whether the speed control gets a feed from the VSS or tach.

Have you done as Steve suggested and pulled a wheel, pulled a caliper, reinstalled the wheel, and spun it? If so, what were the results? That test, assuming the hub isn't locked and the axle shaft doesn't turn, gets down to just bearings and the hub. So if you have noise then you can check those more closely. Having said that, if the new bearings are scored then you probably know the culprit. But, if I remember correctly, neither bearing runs directly on the spindle. Right? Do you have pics of how it goes together and how the bearings are scored?

Yes, an index is basically what I'm talking about. However, I'm thinking that there would be a brief description for each entry since there's no one post that tells all about it. And then links w/in the discussion to posts about that aspect. For instance: Engine: Some explanation that the short block was built by Scotty, the EFI heads by Eric Weingartner, etc. Front Axle: It is a D60 from a '95 F350 that was rebuilt by whomever with 3.55 gears and an OX locker. Front Suspension: The front axle rides on SuperDuty springs and uses a reverse shackle kit from Sky Offroad (with link to that thread) Does that make sense?

If it would help I can put a VSS on my lathe and figure out what the pulse rate per revolution is. And even take a pic of the waveform.

On another front, I had a conversation with my son re Big Blue, overlanding, etc. He seemed interested and asked for more pics of what I've done. So I've come up with a plan for which I'd like your input. Basically it is two-pronged: Picture Gallery: I have two pages on Big Blue. One is at Documentation/Picture Galleries/Big Blue, and the other is below that at Documentation/Picture Galleries/Big Blue/Big Blue's Documentation. I see no reason for there to be two pages. And the pictures and detail on the top page are out of date. So I'm thinking I'll merge them into one page with these tabs: Documentation As Acquired: This would include the pictures and detail that describe BB when I got him back in '87 Transformed: This tab would have the specs on what he is now as well as recent pictures Big Blue's Transformation: This is the current thread, which is obviously L.O.N.G. And in the first post there's a Word doc that has my check list of what I did. But I think I need to replace it with a document that has the detail of what the truck is and has links to the posts about that. An example of what I'm talking about is the doc in the first post of Dad's Truck Build, although I'll try to make it shorter. Thoughts?

Yep, VNT sounds familiar. Ford had fits with them coking up on the PowerStrokes if you let them idle too long. My buddy had that problem until he loaned the truck to his SiL who wagged a trailer at high speed for a few thousand miles. When it came back the boost had gone up to over 20 psi, and he was a happy camper. As for the engines, it is amazing what the little ones will do with some boost. As you know, I'll pit my 3.5L EB against my 7.5L any day.

Yes, you will need to do a LOT of waveform processing. The Vehicle Speed Sensor signal is basically a square wave, but the tach signal is UGLY! Huge spikes as the magnetic field collapses in the coil, and you have to isolate that with a resistor and then process it. I'll be anxious to see how you do that. However, I'd think about a 555 timer as it could easily provide the square wave and be triggered with the tach signal.

If I slowly roll into the throttle it sort of feels like it loses power briefly, then starts to pick up, slowly at first, then it builds pretty quickly. So I'm pretty sure it's going lean. Wether jets, accel pump or power valve is the best way to address it? That I don't know. I should also point out that "everyone" says I should be running at ;east 4.56 gears, if not 4.88s, with a 302, 33" tires and an overdrive trans. And this is in 5th gear. If I drop a gear or two it lights right up. Still, I'm pretty confident that it's going lean, and sometime I'll do something about it. Maybe soon, maybe not. I don't think it is the accelerator pump, but that's an easy try so I'd do it were I you. Then I'd drill another set of jets to 54 and try them. Last would be the PV. But that's just me. See what others say.

Yippee! On the flat spot, if it truly is what I'd call a flat spot I think you are still too lean. The accelerator pump covers up a quick transition, but to me a flat spot is when you are just easing into it and nothing happens until the PV opens. If that's the case I'd say you are still too lean. Either that or the PV needs to open sooner. And, by the way, that is exactly the situation my '72 F250 w/a 390 and a 2100 had. At cruise nothing happened until the PV opened. I changed to bigger jets and that solved the problem.

Bummer! I'd try bypassing the valve. Run a line from the tank to the switch on the HVAC panel and see if it works that way.

Yup. And yet I have a t-case shift lever that.....

I can't tell you how many pulses per mile the speed sensor puts out, but I can say that the target speed for the speedometer cable is 1000 RPM at 60 MPH. Hope that helps. And please keep us apprised of your results.

Glad you found it that easily, but bummer that it quit so quickly. If you have to tune the carb 'cause it runs differently then the first one must have been bad.

Excellent! Glad the gift card worked for you, and that you got the parts.

Looking good, Nick. Yes, progress is good!

Yes, I wish you luck! Hope things go well, but I'm with Jim - you have this nailed.