Gary Lewis

As I said previously, I've been cleaning the shop and not working on the truck. However, at the end of the day today I found my G/Flex epoxy and couldn't resist doing one little project. The trim piece on the driver's side of the seat is supposed to be secured at the top with a screw and at the bottom with a spring clip that is adhered to the plastic trim piece. But Big Blue's was retained by a piece of elastic since I got it as the spring clip was no longer on the trim piece. So recently I tried to stick it back on with JB Weld, but that didn't stick to the plastic. But today I mixed up some G/Flex and put it on. We'll see how well it adheres, but I took pains to prep the plastic and the clip so I have high hopes that it'll work this time. And, by the way, this and the Code Alarm documentation is the only thing on the 4' x 10' work table.

Been a while since I posted in here, although I have added a few things from time to time. But I thought Jim would want to see this as he's referred people to this info several times. While cleaning the shop today I ran across a Crane Cam distributor recurving kit and the associated instructions. So I scanned the instructions, which have the process that should be used for re-curving a dizzy, and put them here: Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and on the Instructions tab.

Yep, just "bench racing". I don't plan to change anything. And no, I don't want to make Big Blue into a serious 'wheeling rig. I think the mod's that have been made will serve well, both on and off road. And while it won't be perfect for anything, it will be good for most things. As for vehicles being boring on some trails, I think that's where the new Jeeps may be in some cases. The Rubicon we rented had all the bells and whistles and sure made things easy. Where's the fun in just renting something like that? Having said that, we visited with our traveling companions in Nashville while on the trip and they brought up the idea of going to Alaska and up to Prudhoe Bay. And we all agreed flying in and renting something would sure make the trip shorter.

What he said /\ /\ /\. As for torque values and sequence, I always use the factory shop manual's values, usually shown on the last page. For you the page is at Documentation/Engines/Windsor and then the Windsor Instructions tab.

Yes, you are right. Tightening hours later does move things, as witnessed by the bulge of RTV that comes out front and rear. (Which is why you HAVE TO have things surgically clean so the RTV adheres or it'll just pop out and you'll have a huge leak.) And that movement will break loose any RTV on the intake-to-head interface as the intake slides down on the head. I hadn't thought of that, but somehow I've not yet had any leaks. I guess in thinking about it maybe I should modify my approach and torque the bolts to something like 1/2 the spec initially and then come back the next day and torque them to spec. That would minimize the movement. Or, maybe just go ahead and torque them fully and let the RTV set up w/o pressure? That way if it didn't adhere at least it might not pop out.

I've been close to that point several times of late. I've had the dash pad off enough times to be able to count the screws in my head. As well as the speaker bracket. And while I was there I checked the tightness of the dash anchors screws. So it isn't that big of a deal compared with what I went through the way I did it. And, as you say, it allows for testing.

That's a very valid point. Instead of having the front changed to 3.55 to match the rear I've often wondered if I should have had the rear changed to 4.10 to match the front. Currently at 65 MPH the RPM is 1800 and it would have changed to 2100. Not as good as today, but better than the 2400 with the T-19. Then, when the tires wear out, I could have gone to 35's and been at 1900 @ 65.

Wow! So glad you and the other driver and kid are ok. And your truck. Yes, it can happen in a heart beat.

Sorry, didn't think you were trying to change my goals. Was just lamenting that the change from a 3.03 to a 2.94 second gear makes starts from a stop slightly tenuous. You don't let out on the clutch and then rev it as was the case with the old engine and the T-19. You rev it a bit first, like with a smaller engine. Having said that, it may well not be the gear ratio, although that didn't help. It may be the engine. The old one, in spite of its horrible loss of compression past the rings pulled like a tractor from idle. This one, in spite of being new, doesn't want to pull from less than maybe 1200. And I'm saying "engine" as it is probably a combo of the cam and the intake. Using the EFI lower plenum as a "wet" intake isn't what it was designed to do, so perhaps when I get the injectors on there it'll be better?

Yes, that's a shame. Hopefully the next one will be good. Good idea to hang in there and get a good one. No need to rush as you may regret it later.

Nice truck. Not sure it is worth $22.5K, but the pictures sure don't help it sell. For that kind of money why wouldn't you take some good ones?

Yes - no gasket on the front and rear walls. Just RTV. But, the surfaces have to be CLEAN. I use brake cleaner and scrub to ensure there's no oil or old material. And, I use long studs in the bolt holes to ensure the intake comes down where it is supposed to be as you don't want to have to move it around much. Then I install the bolts and run them down finger tight. Do not torque them. You want the RTV to touch the intake and adhere but not be squished out. Let it sit overnight and come back the next day to torque it down.

Well done, save for the crack. That approach must be easier than the way I did it in situ. Man, that is painful and I had the cuts to prove it at the time. Hope I don't have to do another, but I'll try your approach if I do.

Wow, that was surely LEAKING! Glad you got it replaced before things got out of hand.

I think either will work with that clutch fork, but the throwout with the clips is the stock way. And I don't have a recommendation other than Luk as that's what I've always gone back with.

I'm confident that a lot more Chinese speak English than the other way 'round. Our daughter teaches English to Chinese children, as do other people we know, so there is a clamoring for it over there. And so many of them have learned that she said some are now moving on to Spanish. So I'm at a loss to explain why we get such poor translations in our adverts. I can understand why some eBay sellers want you to think they are illiterate so you think you can take advantage of them. But there's no way to take advantage of advertisers when buying from Amazon. And being able to tell from the advert that something has come from China is a turn OFF to me. So why not spend just a little bit and have someone that knows the language vet the advert?

What would I do without you guys? How many miles are we talking Gary? Also, where exactly did you guys say the other place would be? Behind the engine? The other place is at the rear wall of the block where the intake manifold mates with the block. There's a wall at the front and rear of the vee and between is the valley where the cam and lifters reside. The intake is supposed to seal the block off, but it doesn't always. So check at the very back of the intake, right in the middle. As for miles, 50 or 100 or more. Not a long time. But you need new, fresh oil to get to the seal, and it needs to get warm.

Looks good. Should last a long time.

By 'wheeling standards the breakover angle and departure angle of the Gladiator are a bit limiting. But by pickup standards they aren't bad, especially with a lift and bigger tires (33s are standard on the Rubicon, '37s are kind of the starting point for serious 'wheelers in both the Wrangler and the Gladiator) I think I'll stay with my 33's on BB as the 2nd gear on the ZF is already a stretch. So I don't think 35's would be any fun. And, I'm not into serious 'wheeling. Nor, for that matter, serious overlanding. But I do want to do some of both.

Thanks, Jim. Might have to get some, just in case. But I'm yet-again surprised with the Chinese/English translation. I would think they'd hire someone that really knows English so we would be presented with things like: Product Properties:Under double newton power,Self Locking,Can't be separated after button up. Product Packing: Coming with a transparent bag,100 pcs all in the bag,Not Happy with jewelry? But I guess this makes it interesting?

I asked on the GOAT Facebook page if any of those folks are going to the Big Iron rally, and one has responded that he is. That led to a discussion with him about vehicles. He has a new Jeep Gladiator, and I originally thought they are a lot smaller than Big Blue. But I've discovered that they are very close to the same size as Big Blue is 18' 4" long and the Jeep is 18' 2". And Big Blue's wheelbase is 133" compared to the Jeep's is 137". So maybe BB isn't quite as big as I thought he is?

Well done! I like those SS zip ties. But I've never found them. Where did you find them?

If the truck's been sitting quite a bit I'd drive it for a while to see if the leak heals itself. Sometimes seals harden w/o use, and then after use and being washed with new oil seem to soften and re-seal. I'd sure want to do that before tackling a rear main seal replacement in the truck. Been there, done that, and don't want to ever again.

Yep, 250A through sheet metal would be cause for alarm! I like the safe approach. And pictures would be cool!

Glad he's gotten it in the mail. Hope it does the trick. Sounds like you got the radiator problem solved several ways - more room, no leaks, and still plenty of cooling for the vehicle. You put the #55's in but haven't driven with them, right? It'll be good to see what that does before you put the weight on top of the accelerator pump check ball. The 55's may enrichen enough that there isn't much/any pause there.