Gary Lewis

82/89 F100 6 230 E3TZ 9E606-B #Black Note that it is also correct for 83/89 R-E150/350 "From 9/82"

Only correct for 1980. 80 F100/350(99) - - w/trailer towing pkg. EOTZ 13A576-A #E0TB 13A576-AA

The advert is correct: 80/82 E—F100/350 U150 6 300 EOTZ 8546-A *YA— 168, 1 25/64" thick

I wonder if that's the same one that Scott sent to someone recently?

Cheap!

That's the early one w/o the rubber insert.

Not quite as cheap, but still very inexpensive.

Still cheap!

And that is cheap as well!

That is cheap!

Well, a few things to report. First, the G/Flex appears to have worked and I put the seat trim back on. Second, I went with Hagerty for the insurance, as posted in the Insurance? thread. Third, I got the Pace Edwards Bed Locker cover in today. This thing is a beast. The UPS man said it weighs 120 lbs, and that was just the mechanism and cover. Then there were the rails in a different box. And I've changed my priorities slightly. I'm now going to focus on getting the cover on since that will let us put our suitcases in the bed, close the cover, and feel like they won't be easily stolen. In other words, we can take the trip around the GOAT. Then I can turn to the security system as well as interfacing the security system to the cover.

Well, I went with Hagerty. I called them and they were willing to insure Big Blue for the value I came up with, which was their valuation plus what I have put into him. They didn't need my spreadsheet, but took my word for it. But Hagerty insurance isn't for everyone. Here are some of the limitations: Can't be a daily driver. You have to have daily driver vehicles for the drivers in the family. Max of 5000 miles per year. So I'll have to be careful and limit the trips, but we were already going for something like 6500 miles with AMIG, so I think I can live with it. The truck has to have a garage to be stored in when not on trips. It isn't cheap. They are charging much more than what State Farm has been charging. But the coverage is so much better than what State Farm provides that I believe it is worth it - for something you've put a whole lot of work and money into.

Well, you've come to the right place to ask the question as I sorta went through this recently. But the answers, plural, aren't simple. First, the tank will fit. But while the opening will take a Bullnose sender, the tab on the sender that goes into a slot in the opening will orient the sender the wrong way 'round. So you'd have to cut another slot in the opening to get the sender to go in correctly, and my fear was that the tank would rust there since you would be cutting away the galvanizing and there is surely moisture at times there. You can go with a later model sending unit, which will orient correctly in the tank, but all of those include a pump. Plus the resistance range is different and backwards to the Bullnose sender, so you gauge will not only read backwards but not even close to correctly. However, there is an electronic device called a Meter Match that will mate the Brick/Aeronose sender to a Bullnose gauge. I'm running one and it works. So, while it can be done I'm not sure I'd recommend it for you. I went that way because I'm going to be running a '96 EFI system so went with the complete fuel system.

Soil science? That's new to me, but then I went to college over 50 years ago, so I'm sure things have changed a whole lot.

Nick - I did see your intro just now. You are good to go. On the brakes, it is actually a leaking master cylinder that usually does in the booster. Masters can leak out the push rod area and that gets sucked into the booster and ruins it. So I'd normally recommend replacing the master when you have to replace the booster. But was the inside of your booster wet or damp? If not, maybe the master isn't leaking. However, the master can still be bad as the pistons can leak internally and cause a soft pedal. So it sure wouldn't hurt to replace it, although you'll have to bleed everything again. Also, there's an adjustable push rod between the booster and the master that sometimes needs tweaking as they can be changed accidentally while a booster or master is being changed out. You can read about it here: Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then the Master Cyl's & Boosters tab and the the Push Rod Adjustment tab. Having said all that, if it was me I'd be considering replacing the master cylinder with a later model one with a plastic tank. I like them much better than the old ones for three reasons. First, you can see how much fluid you have. Second, they don't leak out the top like the cast iron ones do. Third, it is pretty easy to rig up a pressure system to allow you to pressure-bleed the system, which allows you to do it single-handedly. I'll let you digest that and then ask questions....

Wonderful! I really thought it would run well with a bit more fuel, so am glad it is. And I agree you should lean it a bit for Moab if you can push the choke off quickly. So maybe the weight and the 52's will be just right.

Hello, Nick! Welcome! You are leaving TN to become an Aggie? Edgewater? Used to live in Hockessin, PA and got down your way several times so am familiar with the area. What's your major? What do you plan to do? Anyway, we'll help you get it going, and going reliably so you can make the looooong trek to College Station. We took our daughter from Hockessin to Abilene, TX for college so are aware of how far that is.

Unless you are going to be carrying weight up high, like a camper, I don't think the sway bars are important at all. I disconnected them on Big Blue soon after getting the truck and that improved the ride quite a bit. And when I put the D60 in I didn't add that sway bar. So I'm running w/o sway bars and don't seem to have any problems.

Makes me wonder if everything thing is correct with gallons and mileage. I pumped what I pumped and my odometer is close per mile markers. The original owner, I’m told towed RV’s with it. And it has the old Torklift tiedowns for a truck camper, had a fifth wheel hitch in it, and a hitch for conventional trailers. Wondering if they put a different torque converter in it. Jim - I think you are right. Scotty poo poos the Edelbrock cam that was in the old engine, but my guess is that it is a lower RPM cam than his. I know the old engine pulled like a tractor from idle and this one doesn't wake up until ~1200 RPM. Dane - They may well have put a different converter in, and I've read that can certainly help with the slippage. As for the MPG, it is hard to get a good reading on a couple of tanks due to the variability of filling the tank(s), but you are still getting good numbers even if they are off a little bit.

Nick - Welcome to the forum. Glad you joined. You may have missed the email that asked you to do an intro post in the New Members Start Here folder - after reading the guidelines. The main purpose of that is to ensure everyone reads the guidelines as we hold everyone to them. So can you assure me you have read them? And, I always ask in the intro posts where the person lives. That's 'cause we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can add you if we had a city or zip. On your brake issues, I'm not sure you really told us what the issue is you've been trying to solve. Maybe it is that your brake pedal goes down when you start the engine? If so, that is to be expected to some extent as the engine's vacuum provides a lot of boost to your pedal pressure, and if there is any air in the brake fluid then it will get compressed. But it sounds like your brake pedal goes down too much? If so, then you may have air in the system rather than a vacuum problem. Apparently there is plenty of vacuum, which is causing the air to be compressed. Have you bled the rear brakes? Has the master cylinder been replaced and maybe it wasn't bled properly?

Oh, ok. Maybe I misunderstood. And you are right, the adjusters should kick in after you've backed up and stopped a number of times. And things will bed in.

Jim - Where did you see about the pixels? Do I actually have something posted?

I don't have that written up, but need to do so and will put it on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. But here's how: Click on your name, right above where the avatar goes Click on Account Settings Click on Change Picture But the picture size is critical. I don't remember exactly how big it should be, but give it a go and I'll help you work it out in this thread.

Glad you got the brakes adjusted and the system bled. But if the brake pedal is low you may have a mal-adjusted push rod. Between the booster and the master cylinder there's an adjustable push rod. It should be set when a new master is installed, but is frequently overlooked, and it can easily cause the pedal to be low. You can check it by pulling the master loose from the booster and moving the master forward a bit. But the adjustment is somewhat critical 'cause if you get it too long the brakes won't release fully and will drag. This is written up on our page at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then the Master Cyl's & Boosters tab and then the Push Rod Adjustment tab.

Lower, slower Delaware! Been there many times, some of which was to the speedway, some to visit friends that lived there. We used to live near Hockessin as I worked for DuPont at the time. Anyway, you are on the map.