Gary Lewis

With the T-19 Big Blue's old engine was turning 2400 at 65 and it would get that 11.58. With the ZF5 the new engine is turning 1800 at 65 and I'm still getting about the same MPG. So if you are doing that with a C6 you are doing very well.

I'd also want both the gauge and the light to be hooked up. But on oil pressure you should be able to go to the hardware store and get the right fittings to put a tee or wye in and have both. As for the problem on startup, what filter are you running? I've heard that some filters don't have the drain-back valve in them and that allows all the oil in the system to drain back into the sump, so when the engine starts you have to refill that before pressure comes up. I don't know if that is true, but it is a consideration. David's issue was caused by gunk that was all over the inside of the engine from the PO, and his religious changing of oil finally got it to break loose. But when it did it clogged the pickup on the oil pump, starving the system of oil. Yours sounds more like either a bad sender or, more likely, the oil pressure in the engine is such that after a trip where the oil gets good and warm it thins out and the pressure drops down enough to light the light. So what oil are you running?

Welcome! Glad you joined. How 'bout placing the pic on here so's people can see it w/o clicking. See the how-to at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's for how to do that, but I'll do it below. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you with a city/state or zip.

Cool! I'm guessing the front will come down 3 - 4" with the drivetrain, batterie(s), radiator, etc.

Well, you've solved one problem and probably prevented several other.

Congrat's!!!

Congrat's! That's the best kind of fix.

Yippee!!!!

Well done! Yes, it is normal for the passenger's vents to blow harder than the driver's vents, surely due to how close the blower is to the vents. And while it isn't unusual for air to come out of the vents on defrost or floor, it isn't right. Some door isn't sealing off completely would be my guess. But if you get enough air out of the defrost or the floor vents then it might not be worth fixing it. Anyway, good luck on installing the A/C system!

Yup. Am in the parking lot at the doctor’s office as Janey has a checkup. So no excuses.

Oh! SolId not Sold.

Huh? It has 7 days left. What am I missing?

We were back at our church building for the first time in such a long time yesterday that it seemed like we were visiting. So I know what the feeling was like. Good! On the brakes, I’d go ahead and flush it out. The old fluid will have rust and moisture in it, so it is time to start over.

Nice! I’ll be curious to see what it goes for.

Yep, that is simple.

Thanks, Jim. I've added links to those pages, as well of a discussion of what's on the tabs, in the Instructions tab. Please see what you think.

Wow! That's quite the compressor. And that's a lot of air. Yes, it should keep up with a sandblaster. As for testing a tank with grease, I would never have thought of that, but it is a good idea. Ingenious!

Dane - Those are pretty decent numbers with a C6! I can crowd 12 with Big Blue and the ZF5, so for you to get 11.3 is pretty good.

No, I don't think Scotty wanted me to host the instructions here. If I remember correctly he said we could link to them. But the Crane ones should certainly help. We can not only refer people to them, but since they are OCR'd we can quote them, like this:

Yes, a full tank of air has a whole lot of potential energy when filled to 170+ psi! So limiting the air with water is a good idea. As for the controls, that's interesting. I saw the valve working in the video, but didn't realize what it was doing. That seems like a nice system as it keeps the pump turning to cool it, and keep its flywheel spinning if it has one. You really have this thing worked out! Concerning having compressed air available, I'm looking forward to getting the 4 CFM/200 psi system installed on Big Blue. Should be pretty handy.

I suspect the speed makes a much bigger difference than the spoiler. These trucks are worse than the proverbial barn door as they have recesses that hold air, like around the headlights and the grille. David/1986F150Six typically drives at lower speeds and the spoiler's effect can be seen. At higher speeds it'll probably be overlooked. But glad the sound system is working for you.

It can't hurt - if you install it correctly. Do one side at a time so you can use the other as a guide. And take pics before you start.

On the alternator, it was just the rear needle bearing that was growling? And lubing it solved it? Wow! I'd have bet the needles were bad. Hope it holds for you. As for the carb, it seems like you got the idle problem resolved. By backing out the idle stop screw, which allowed the throttle blades to close some you lowered the RPM. And by adjusting the two screws in the front, which adjust the air/fuel mix, in a bit you got it to idle better and take the throttle better. But it still won't run when you drop it in D or R until it is warm. And that's surely because you need a bit more choke. Make note of where the index is sitting on the black choke housing, and then loosen the three screws that hold it onto the carb. Then turn it two notches in the direction that closes the choke plate, which I think is clockwise - but I could be wrong. Snug the screws up and test that.

I think your testing of the tank is good. Should easily be safe.On the trailer, you have a LOT of weight on the tongue. If you put the compressor towards the rear will that balance things out a bit, but still leave ~15% of the weight on the tongue?And the controls stop the compressor by disengaging a clutch when the pressure gets to 175, but leave the motor running?