Gary Lewis

Ok, here's the latest plan. First, I'm a bit worried that the toolbox is going to try to tilt on the supports, and the aluminum on the bottom isn't all that strong, even with fender washers under the heads of the bolts. So I'm thinking of installing a piece of 15/16" Advantec inside the box and bolting through that. Second, there's no problem getting a reinforcement plate above the tank, as shown below. The blue lines indicate where the edges of the toolbox will be, the blue circles roughly where I'll bolt, and the red is where I'll put a 9" x 17" piece of Advantec. But before I install it I'll coat it with polyester resin, including inside the bolt holes. Thoughts, please?

Yes. I thought this after reading, "However, as I think about it I'm not sure I can get anything up there since some of the bolts are probably directly over the midship tank." Also, why not use Aluminum instead of steel? Not sure I want to have nuts permanently welded to the top of the bed. And, that would concentrate the force to that point. But it would make it a lot easier given where I think the holes will be. I'll go out in a bit, after I have my 2nd cup, and lay out where I think the holes should go. There are ribs that run crosswise to the bed, and maybe I'll get lucky and can go through one of those. As for aluminum plate, it would be good if I had some. However, what I have in aluminum is the 3" channel and I doubt I can get a piece up under there. We shall see.

That one does look like a keeper. The stretch marks aren't unusual from what I can see, and the bent corners are normal.

You got Rock Auto to work with you? Well done! They are notorious for being hard to work with. Yes, it seems like Auto Zone saved the day. Anyway, you have it fixed and running again?

I missed that, Jim. Thanks for the clarification.

I don't think it looks that bad. But if you really want you could use a black zip tie. However, while it will be more discrete it will be a pain when you want to remove the hose.

Gary, if using steel to support the weight of the tool box, since you will have your welder available for securing the bed bolts, prior to Line-X, why not tack an appropriate number of nuts to the bed under where the steel support will be. Then, drill through the tool box and metal support such that bolts can be inserted from the bottom of the tool box. David - Can you say that another way? I haven't gotten my head around it. But, let me explain what my plans have been. Perhaps I've confused you. I plan to drill through the bottom of the tool box in six places and put large washers on the heads of the bolts. Then between the underside of the tool box and the bed there will be two runs of 4x4 w/a 2x4 on top. That will lift the box ~3/8". And the bolts will go through those and then through the bed floor. The question I've been trying to answer is what to put under the bed to spread the load. Are you suggesting tacking nuts to the top of the bed?

Well, that's a significant statement, and the definition is certainly good to know. Thanks!

Interesting. I didn't know those existed. But I didn't see any prices, so where do you look for them? Also, someone said something about powder-based fire extinguishers packing down under vibrations. I wonder how these prevent that?

Yes, I second David's questions. And, is the alternator just a replacement 1G? Hooked up exactly the same? And the same regulator? I ask because your symptoms are normal with a 3G w/o the delayed start regulator. But I wouldn't expect that from a 1G as they don't put out enough at idle to slip a properly-tightened belt. Or at least I wouldn't have thought so.

I wasn't aware that there are differences. Do you have pictures? I'm curious.

Jim - Then you'd probably agree with using a piece of steel plate, properly powder coated instead of wood? However, as I think about it I'm not sure I can get anything up there since some of the bolts are probably directly over the midship tank. So that's going to be one of the first things I check out when I get to the shop in a bit.

As for the running, maybe it'll clear up when it warms up - both the engine and the outside temps.... As to the 302 vs the 460, this 302 isn't what the original one was. When I bought this Bronco it had the original engine with a little under 200,000 miles. I could drive around my residential neighborhood never taking it out of the 1:1 high gear. It would easily pull away from a 10 - 15 mph corner like that. Then I replaced that engine (twice actually). I bought the engine it now has from a local engine rebuilding shop. They were pretty proud of their build that would be stronger than the original. It may be at some speeds, but I've never been thrilled with it off idle. Now pulling away from a corner in my neighborhood I have to downshift to at least the 1.4:1 3rd gear of my NV3550, and sometimes even that isn't enough. I suspect this engine is cammed wrong for what I want. Not only for driving in my neighborhood, but also when 'wheeling. When I was first 'wheeling it I found it was much worse at crawling than my old '75 CJ-5 (that had the same crawl ratio), because I couldn't keep the engine running below about 1200 rpm while the Jeep's 258 six would crawl at about 600 rpm. After putting the 4.3:1 Atlas transfer case it's actually good at crawling (quite a bit better than the CJ-5). But I know the engine's power curve could be a lot better for what I want. Some time I might do something about that. But with the Atlas I can live with it, so for now at least I do. But the point is that it's pretty anemic at idle, so I'm not too surprised that the power steering pump can pull it down Yes, now I remember! I wonder if the Sag is more efficient than the older pump. And I understand the issue with the cam since my new 460 doesn't have the low-end torque the old one did, in spite of having more compression. But, like you, I'll live with it.

The slip joint goes down by the differential.

Looking great! All the little details are what make it functional. Well done! Or doing?

My '95 factory EFI pump put out so much that a single return-style regulator wasn't enough to handle it. So I put a dead-head style regulator after the return style and that combo works very well.

Hadn't noticed that. Probably did the radio later.

Yippee! Moab, here we come! Sounds like you have most of the issues sorted. But remind me what PS pump you are running? I haven't noticed any change in idle speed with the Sag, whether I keep hitting the brakes or turn the wheel. But then I have a 460 not a 302. Still, I would expect to notice something. And the lube does sound like and easy fix. She's gonna like that. When do you leave?

Looks great, Jim. PROGRESS!

I think it was the latter. They realized they had 2 & 3 available and used them.

Bob - This tool box is gonna be LOADED! I took the stuff out yesterday, and the chain, binders, 3 ton jack, 4-way, and Craftsman tool box collectively must approach 200 lbs. Granted, for overlanding trips I won't need the binders, but the rest of it and then some will go. Then there's the air compressor. So spreading the load is a good thing. Scott - Advantech! I have some of that. I wonder how much? I'll look tomorrow.

LOL! Was wondering just yesterday how I'd put an electric motor in Big Blue. Anyway, I don't think I'll pull the nuts off the other bed bolts. I might pull this one off and PST it. Or I may just tighten it up. Not sure. But I will tack them all before the bed liner goes on. Speaking of the bed liner, Line-X says it'll be 120 mils thick, or .120" thick. Basically 1/8". If my measurements are right and the 4x4 + 2x4 combo raises the toolbox 1/4 - 5/16" off the bed sides, then adding 1/8" will make it 3/8 - 7/16" between the toolbox and the bed sides. So I should probably put 1/2" thick foam tape on the bedsides to cushion things and prevent contact between the toolbox and the bedsides when crossed up. The TSB says "When a piece of equipment is secured to the load floor it should not also be secured to the box sides." So I'm thinking I can forego installing the L-brackets from the TSB. Does that seem reasonable? Then there's the plywood that Ford says should be installed below the bed, as shown below. (I'm not using plywood to support the toolbox as that's what the 2x4s do.) I don't really want to use plywood, but Ford seems to think that something is needed, probably to keep from crushing the corrugations. I'm think of two possible solutions: Using 3/8" bolts that will fit into the corrugation so I can put the nut up against the top of the corrugation. Making metal plates to fit instead of wood. Thoughts?

Looks very good. PROGRESS!

So they came out in '95? And they are used in the in-cab fuse box?

You are off an a great adventure! This is going to be fun - for you and for us following along.