Gary Lewis

Interesting! But why did they break between '84 and '85?

Evening, Scott. As you will discover, we flew right past you today so I've not had time to respond. On the choke, I don't know if it fully closes. I think it does, or should, as I set it almost closed to start with and it was lean so I added more - two or three times. And now I'm at the end of the scale. I wonder if the intake having been designed for air rather than a fuel/air mix has anything to do with that? As for designing, yes, I think I could pick it up. But I'll bet the kids pick it up immediately. It is bittersweet, that's for sure. Maybe I should get a printer so the grands have more reason to come see me?

Scott - I saw this today on Sunshine/D and thought of you, for several reasons. Can you count the ways?

Is your engine new? It is on break-in of the cam that the most concern is for additives. But you still need to run some zinc for the cam even after break-in. I’m running Brad Penn oil, but that’s probably overkill. However, since I have quite a bit of it that’s what I’m running. I think many others are running diesel oil, but I’ll let them speak to that. On the oil pressure, if you are building a 351M or 400 there are mods that can be made to bring the pressure up. Go to Documentation/Engines/351M & 400 in the menu for a discussion of that.

As Jim says, progress is good! And you are making good progress. 👍

Scott - You are outside the normal range of the choke index marks? I am on Big Blue as well, on the rich side. Don’t think I’ve ever had to do that before so it worries me. But it seems to work fine, so it must be ok. Still, I wonder why? You found fog lenses and that turned the lights from driving to fog? I guess I’d never really thought about it, but had always assumed there was more to it than that. But the reflector is probably set up the same in both cases, so I guess it is all down to the lens. Cool! As for the spacer, it is neat that you can do those kinds of things. I’d think it would take me a long time to draw it up, but you seem to do it easily. 👍

Cool info, Bill. Thanks.

Sounds like you are getting it dialed in. Float level - check. Plugs - check. Jets - soon. Hope that solves the problem. And I can't think of what else it could be. But do you have EGR?

You sure have done a lot in what seems, to me anyway, a short period of time. But I know that when you are in the thick of the battle it seems to go on forever. Maybe it is time for a break. Has seemed to help me from time to time.

Well, that means you have a damaged flywheel. Pull the inspection plate off the transmission/torque converter and turn the engine over slowly. I think you'll find a bad spot, and if so the flywheel should be replaced. Otherwise every time it stops in that spot you won't be able to start it.

The transfer cases use ATF and I'm using Amsoil ATLQT Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid in mine. And Scott/Kramttocs likes the Amsoil Severe Gear Synthetic lube, as shown below, for diffs.

Really? I guess I could strip the paint on just the outside to bare metal so I dont get an excessive build up let alone a chemical reaction to the 2K engine primer and engine paint I will be using. If you dont think there would be a problem leaving the grey paint on the inside I have no problem doing it as it would save me time as I can simply wirebrush the exterior of the pain to bare metal. The lip I am not too concerned with as I got the pan rail stiffeners from Ford Racing as I have the Felpro one piece rubber gasket I will be using. Im tempted to paint the pain first leaving the rail stiffeners black along with the ARP bolts. Not like youd see that unless you crawl under the truck. But everything else I am tempted into painting after assembly. I really would want it painted - or powder coated as I did. That's because there will be moisture in the pan at times, and a bare pan might rust. I think the gray paint will be fine.

I misunderstood. Thought you were looking for 351HO wiring. Anyway, it is going to be fun unraveling that.

Maybe we need a new emoticon?

Most, if not all, of my oil pans have been painted inside and out. And none of them have flaked off. I'd want it painted to keep it from rusting.

Jim - I don't think the 351's had electric pumps. Just mechanical. In the schematic below it says that this is the wiring for "Except 7.5L with dual fuel tanks and electric pumps and 5.0L EFI Engine. All others had mechanical pumps. So Dennis' setup is not stock.

Good luck, Vic.

15/16" socket on the damper bolt.

That is a LOT of current draw. I think you have a bad regulator. As shown below, both the alternator and regulator are always connected to the battery, so either could do it. But you disconnected the regulator and the current draw went away, so it must be the regulator.

Let's make sure we are using the same terminology. I think that "the engine did not turn over" means it did not spin when you turned the key, but the starter did spin. If that is correct then your starter is most likely bad. But it is possible that the flywheel has bad teeth at the spot where the starter was supposed to engage. Your signature doesn't say what transmission you have, but if it is a manual you could roll the truck a bit and pop the clutch to get the engine to turn some, and then the starter might engine if the flywheel is bad.

Good catch, Dane. It does have MAF. That means it is EEC-V. My understanding is that only the CA-spec 1996 460’s got that. The 49-state 460’s stayed ECC-IV in 96, so were SD and bank-fire. And many people don’t believe the 460 ever got MAF - ask Bill. The truck is in Oregon, so I’m guessing it was purchased in CA.

Nice truck! Assuming it isn't a California truck it'll be bank-fire and speed density, but at least it is EFI. And it'll be an E4OD. So should be reasonable to drive.

That is coming together very nicely! Well done!

I like my Bull Horn. Sure seems appropriate. Jim - Sorry for your woes. Hope you get some better weather soon.