Gary Lewis

Here's the page from the 1985 EVTM showing the relay for the 351HO, aka 5.8L 4V.:

That's why I'd like to know how he did it!

The fix is easy. But getting it all back together is a pain. The idiot that designed this ought to have his head examined. But, truth be told, when I got the new Sony in I realized that I should have adjusted the protrusion of the rear support as it wasn't going into where it was supposed to go. Still, it was solid so I was going to live with it. Now that it is out, again, I'll adjust it correctly.

LOL! One of my sons said it’s probably pathological and I should consult. I answered that I already had a diagnosis, and unfortunately (for them) it’s degenerative and incurable. Tell them that insanity is hereditary - you get it from your kids.

It looks like a custom installation. The arms are welded to the bumper, right? And they are dog-legged outward to fit the frame.

Good plan, Stan. The Eddy heads are a big improvement.

Chris - So yours doesn't mount the way shown in the 2nd illustration below?

Right, Kurt. But it appears he's switched which post is positive, which makes it really hard for us to come up with an easy way to do this. Granted it is easy to swap the R/O & Y/LG wires and you are literally right there when installing the voltmeter in the cluster and then the cluster in the dash.

Happy Birthday, Big Bro!!!

You really lucked out. However, having done a bunch porting on a pair of D80E heads I can tell you they don't come much worse. Not that you need to change, but I can tell you that there isn't a lot you can do to make them better w/o a ton of work. And even then they aren't all that much better.

Thanks, Will. That pretty well confirms it. I just sent Bob/Rocketman this email:

I think we now understand. Time for an update - the dash is APART! The instrument bezel had to come off to get the instrument cluster out so I could both see behind it to find where the AFR meter's power wire went and to get to C208A to tie into the R/O wire from the relay. But to get the instrument bezel off the AFR meter, and the associated clutch safety bypass switch, has to come off. As do the aftermarket gauges. But then I found that the AFR meter's power wire went up under the dash cover, so off that came. And sure enough that wire went over to Mission Control to get switched power, so out came the radio I just installed as well as the Mission Control switches. As it turns out this is going to be a simple wiring change. Yes, really. All I have to do is to snip the power wire off near Mission Control and re-route it to C208A and tie into the R/O wire there by popping Pin 8 out and soldering the connection. Pop the pin back in, reinstall the radio & Mission control, add a dash cover, add a gauge cluster with the fun C208A connector and speedo cable, lay the instrument bezel in and add the aftermarket & AFR gauges, wire up the clutch switch bypass (maybe adding a connector this time to make it easier), add a couple of knobs, put the plastic cuff around the steering column and add the vacuum gauge, then bring the trim cover up from the bottom, install 37.5 screws, and Bob's your uncle.

I never would have guessed that would work. Cool!

That's interesting. I'd like to see pics of your frame and how you are using a van frame for a pickup. Hopefully you will start a thread to show us how you do it.

Ok, while you were posting I was measuring and taking pictures. As it turns out it is really hard to measure up there, but that socket is 2 1/2" tall and it almost slides in there. Those are poly mounts and I'll warn you that if you put the grease on that comes with them you can easily make them 6" in diameter and 1" tall, long before hitting the torque spec. Been there, done that, and you could just keep cranking and watching them squish. I had to pull them, thoroughly clean off the grease, and then put them in dry to get to the torque spec.

Welcome! Glad you joined. You don't have to give out any info. But when you get to know us you may want to be on our map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. We don't want to know your address, just maybe your zip code or city/state. We don't put our exact addresses on as we don't want people to show up on our doorsteps. Tell us about your truck? It helps us help you if you put info about in a signature. You can see how to do that at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's in the menu. W/o know what you have some people won't answer the questions for fear of being wrong. And most volunteers won't scroll back through your posts to find the details. So a sig is a huge help - both for us as well as for you.

You'll get used to it as it is pretty simple. Click on the link above to the New Members Start Here folder and below the Suggestions click on the New Topic link. That'll open up so you can enter the title of your introduction and then the intro itself.

Well, I missed that you missed the email we sent you asking you to make your first post an introduction in the New Members Start Here folder. We do that because we have our guidelines there and since hold everyone to them we want you to have had a chance to read them. Don't worry, lots of people miss that step, and we don't hold it against them - after they do it. So if you'll go do that I'll measure the rear cab mounts.

Well, the plot thickens. The pics below show how Big Blue is wired - just like my documentation says. R/O goes to Pin 8 and Y/LG goes to Pin 9 of C208A, and 8 has battery voltage on it when the key is on and 9 is ground. Not only that, you can see Rocketman's red paint on the DS stud and black on the PS stud of the voltmeter. Plus, I've put lines on the traces to show where they go. Will - Which of your voltmeter's studs is red? Has he changed his orientation?

Installed or bare? Mine are installed but I could measure them if that helps.

Wow! That's a LOT of water!

You've got to realize that his main business is '60s Torino's, Cougars and Mustangs. Harnii in vehicles that old are usually toast. These '80's trucks hold up pretty well from what I see. Though yours is pretty early, with a 335 and all that Cleveland goodness going on! On the left is the backside of C208A, the connector that goes into the gauge cluster. And you can see the R/O & Y/LG wires in the upper right, pins 8 & 9. On the right is the front side of that connector and I've pulled up the tab that keeps Pin 8 in the connector. To swap the two wires you just ease that tab up, pull the wires, swap, and reinsert them. I hope to dig down to the way Big Blue is wired later today, but my documentation shows that the R/O wire is positive and the Y/LG is ground.

Here's a link to a video of Barnsdall. As said, it is 20 miles from us.

That's a really good starting point! You got lucky!

Jeff - It was a scary night. We'd been told that the atmosphere was ripe for severe storms, and the reports were showing that the highest possible level of warning, #5, was just barely west of us. So as the evening progressed that's about all that was on TV. Sure enough, about 8 they saw a shear show up on radar to the SW of us. Then it developed the classic hook profile and headed NNE. It was in farm country so not a lot to hit, but then it headed directly for the little town of Barnsdall, 20 miles NW of us. Along the way it got stronger and they were guessing it at an EF3 or 4 when it made a direct hit. After that it lost a bit of steam but was still pretty strong when it hit Bartlesville. I've not seen official reports this morning but I've seen pics on FB of twisted power poles and some buildings damaged. But we are safe, having spent some time in the shop where our storm shelter is.