Gary Lewis

We are safe. But Barnsdall, a town 20 miles away, took a direct hit. We watched on TV as the rotation started SW of us and tracked about 15 miles west of us and then watched as it made a beeline to Barnsdall. And they are guessing it was an EF3 with a debris field to 20,000 feet in the air. Then it went right up to Bartlesville. Barnsdall is a burgh but Bartlesville is a major city in OK. Now there is another storm firing up near Wagoner, which is where John/Machspeed is. Just texted him and he's ok - so far.

Subscribed. As an aside, we are in the shop where the shelter is having watched a tornado go about 15 miles west of town. May not get out to the shop too early in the morning as we are watching another set of storms heading our way, but maybe not with rotation.

The pins are pretty easy to swap. And the pinout is available on our page at Documentation/Electrical/Gauges and then the Printed Circuit Pin-outs tab. I have a connector loose and hopefully can post a pic tomorrow as to how to swap the pins.

Oh, wow! So sorry for him. Both parents? I'll be digging into Big Blue's cluster soon and will check out which wire I have going where to Rocketman's voltmeter. Need to make sure how this is wired.

I have no news from Bob/Rocketman… I sent him my NOS ammeter for conversion, and tracking is confirming the delivery on last April 26th. I emailed Bob to be sure everything is ok on his side, no sound, no image. If you go look at Will's thread you'll find that I have the wires to the voltmeter backwards! He had to reverse them. For you it may be easiest to swap the two wires in the connector that goes into the cluster as that is fairly easy to do. That way there's no change to the wiring I sent you.

This is critical info, as I'll need to change the schematic. And the harness that Jeff has apparently has the wiring backward. Probably the easiest way to fix it is to swap the wires at the connector into the cluster as those pins are easy to remove. But I need to change the schematic if Rocketman confirms this is the way he's sending the voltmeters.

Looks good! Should be a really nice engine.

Yep, I'm here and you are there, Mike, on the map. Welcome! Glad you joined. We are glad you are here and are looking forward to following your journey.

Yikes! We need to figure this out as we'll have others following in your steps. But I'm using the factory wiring with no problems.

Jeff - It is on its way. And, by the way, here's a revised drawing from Will's thread called Alternator Upgrade Related Questions (was One-Wire Alternator Questions). He pointed out the lack of the w/bk wire wrapping from the 3-wire connector to the stator lug, so I changed that. And he asked about the big yellow wire going to the starter relay or the megafuse, so I show it can go either place. Does that make sense?

Ok, let me offer this wiring diagram with two changes: How does that look? Is there a better way to depict it?

Ahhh, I think the penny dropped. That's such a good picture, I think I understand.

Jim - Are you saying it needs to have this wire as well?

The wire on the 3-pin 3G connector is the stator wire. And it should go to the choke or the choke relay, whichever you have.

Sorry, but I'm dense. Maybe it 'cause I've not even finished my first cuppa, but isn't this it?

Good job! I agree with Jim, the pulley & nut doesn't seem to want to come off. I don't have a lock washer and I'm not sure I used Loctite - on this one. (Jim - I think it was the alternator for Dad's truck where I worked the pulley over in the lathe. That's the dual-belt one that I widened one sheave so it'll take the same belt.) But I'm not sure what you mean by "white/black loop between the two 3G connectors". I do show the w/bk wire, but not two connectors. Can you help me understand?

Excellent! Sorry I was late to the party, but here's how I have it drawn:

Good catch! I didn't look at the connector.

Yep, just answered. Ford seemed to like to use two smaller wires than one big wire, perhaps for flexibility. Anyway, just terminate them to the same place.

Ford seemed to like to parallel two smaller wires than using one large wire. Maybe for flexibility? Just terminate both of them to the same place.

Progress!

The diagram below is from the 1985 EVTM but should be the same as yours if you have factory A/C. But if your line under the hood was broken you'll only have Defrost. However, you shouldn't have open ports under the dash either.

I've used really small brass tubing to act as a joint between pieces of vacuum tubing. And even used it to go through the grommet in the firewall. Not sure if I drilled a new hole in the grommet and pushed it through or pushed the old hose out of the grommet with it, but it worked.

Nice truck! Sorry you have to sell. That has to be a bummer New Ark, huh. Used to live in Hockessin so know the area well.