Gary Lewis

So, the question is whether Big Bro has the relay or not. Hard to believe he wouldn't if it has the 4180C carb as I thought those had a 12V choke. Jeff - Where does the W/Bk wire from the choke go? Does it go to a relay or to the alternator? If it goes to a relay then we need the W/Bk that comes from the relay and goes to the alternator. If it goes directly to the alternator then that's the one we need to tie into.

I first used a wire wheel to get it as clean as I could. Then, I just sprayed on a rust reformer/primer - which I have really come to like and think it is doing a good job. After that I paint it with a coat or two...I have been using Hammered paint on frame parts. Up here in the north with all of the salt, I try to protect anything I take off. Good job!

I'll say it differently. I don't remember how the W/Bk that is shown in the middle of the plug on the right is terminated on the cable I sent you, but I think it goes to the plug you circled. If so then your W/Bk wire to the choke heater goes there, and I assumed you had a matching connector. No?

That's a cop out. Where's the discussion of what plugs I should use? Or what plugs to stay away from? Seriously, Bill. You are the guru. What should I be using?

It should be below the voltage regulator.

I haven't, Dane. Rock Auto shows the NGK 6630 V-Power, AUTOLITE 25, CHAMPION 18, ACDELCO CR43TS, and DENSO 5025 as being the correct heat copper plugs. Have you run the NGK's?

Yes, that's my memory as well. In fact, I think Bill was emphatic about that. I am very

Jeff - This is the key schematic. It shows how you are to use the harness I sent. But let me try to address your questions as I understand them: Voltmeter: You don't do anything but change out the ammeter for the voltmeter. The C610 connector in the harness I sent is wired to send key-on power to your voltmeter on one side and ground the other side. Choke Heater: Your Wh/Bk wire connects to the stator terminal on the new 3G. Y/LG: This wire has an eyelet on it and it'll go to a screw on the fender to serve as ground. Y/Wh: This wire should also have an eyelet on it and it goes to the same terminal on the megafuse holder that the Bk/O wire goes to. Does that answer your questions?

I'm running into a bit of a problem finding the right spark plugs for Big Blue. IIRC Bill and/or Jim said Motorcraft ASF42C's, but I'm not finding them at a reasonable price. For instance, O'Reilly's wants $6.69 each for them. And Rock Auto wants $3.35 each for them. But other copper plugs sell for ~$1.00. DeWayne/93F3507.3 at Skiatook Auto Parts can't even get them. In fact his listings don't even show those plugs for the EFI'd 460. Nor do Rock Auto. DeWayne and Rock Auto show platinum plugs are preferred, but in either copper or platinum they show using a 25 heat range in the Autolite - and I'm running 24's which are hotter. Thoughts? What am I missing?

Everything we know about the CB radio is on the page at Documentation/Accessories/CB Radio. That includes the instructions which should have the fuse size.

As it turns out there's no oil pressure switch on the engine, just the oil pressure sender and a tap for the mechanical gauge. And I found the diagram below that shows how it is wired, which I need to get into the documentation. The fuel pump is primed for a few seconds when you first turn the key on as well as during cranking, and while that would probably work as the O2 sensor wouldn't get too hot in that brief time it isn't ideal. Here's what the Innovate owner's manual says: So I'm warming to the idea of changing the Key On relay to be triggered by the stator wire. I am not sure the R/O wire to the voltmeter is the right size to also power the AFR meter so while I have the PS PDB out to change the trigger wire I could run a new wire.

Yep, the fan lowers and the lights dim a little, when idling in cold winter time. Gentlemen, I need some input to choose a right an reliable model from a renowned manufacturer. As well as for a V-belt pulley model. There are so much choices and brands out there! This 1G is running since 80’s and the last thing I want is to replace it with something that will not last. As I already said, not looking for a bargain, willing to pay the fair value for a solid product. BTW, not looking neither for a chrome $ look. I understand that the 95A (7”) is the recommended one in my case. Go for it. But to be frank (just curious), I don’t understand why a 130A could not fit. There’s plenty space, the top would be bolted a the same place: Why the lower “arched” bracket could not change angle and accommodate it? Or maybe a different tensioner could do the job? In other words, why going from 7” to 8” seems difficult, maybe some other wider dimensions I don’t understand? Jim knows more about this than I do, but I'll respond anyway. Don't worry about the pulley. Whatever pulley it comes with you'll take off and put your pulley on in its place. So just concentrate on the alternator. And the 130A unit will work. So if that's what you want go for it. As for a brand, Jim has had good luck with DB Electrical. John/Machspeed, whom you met, had bad luck with them. I'd still buy from them, but you could go down to your local parts store and buy one of theirs as that would give you someone to deal with later without shipping if you have problems. And if you get one with a lifetime warranty you should be golden. That's one of the beauties of going with a stock 3G instead of some fancy one-wire alternator. They are available everywhere and if one fails while on the road about any parts store can get you a replacement quickly.

Speed control has an insert harness. It goes between the two halves of C305, the curved connector near the steering column. You just unplug them and plug this harness into them. You can see that on our page at Documentation/Electrical/Speed Control. And as Jim said the intermittent wipers are a popular addition to our trucks. You can see the ones that work and how to do it on our page at Documentation/Electrical/Windshield Wipers. You just unplug the existing harness from the existing switch, pull that switch and replace it with the delay switch, and plug the harness into the black plug on the delay module's harness. Then plug the red plug from the delay module into the switch, put the ground wire under a screw that provides a good ground, and you are almost done..... Almost done because you need to mount the delay module. However, note what it says on it - DO NOT DROP. Actually, what it should say is DO NOT JAR. The reason is that repeated jarring causes the solder joints inside it to crack and the unit to quit working. See the "Fix Your Delay Module" tab if yours has quit working. As for mounting, the best way is to wrap it in foam rubber and suspend it with a zip tie. That's because releasing the park brake sends shock waves through the dash, and is known to damage the module. So don't fasten it tightly to the dash, but do give it some padding.

Please do, Bradley. They might help us. As an update, we still don't have an engine although there are three hunts going on: The gentleman I talked to certainly has one and it is at his friend's house in Wichita. He was up there 10 days ago and was supposed to take pics but forgot. But he's going again this Saturday and I'm going to remind him. The big question is what transmission it has and if it has a starter or generator. On the transmission, we want to stay manual but could consider an auto, but need to stay with a torque tube driveshaft so we don't have to also swap out the rear axle. My brother knows of another engine that he's to take pics of so we can try to determine what it is. He's just not had a chance to do that. Another engine has been found that is fresh from the machine shop. But it has a 2-carb intake and split exhaust manifold plus several other goodies, so would cost about $3000 and take a lot of work. Not what we are looking for. And there's a discussion going on about wheels. My brother had exactly the same experience I did of buying later 6-lug wheels and finding that they hit the tie rod ends. So we are aware that there's an offset spec we need to determine before we start down that road.

This graph is part of a 2019 Motor Trend article. I would trust Ford documentation and that of DB Electrical before trusting something in a magazine. I can't say Ford and DB Electrical are right, but I'd bet on it. In any event, regardless of which # you believe, if Big Bro is idling with the lights and heater on you'll be very close to not having enough current from the alternator to keep the voltage up with a 1G. But you'll have more than enough with either of the stock 3G's.

Jeff - I'm not sure where those curves come from, but our page at Documentation/Electrical/Alternators shows that DB Electrical's tests found that Jim's 130A 3G put out 106A at ~550 engine RPM, assuming a 3:1 pulley ratio. And that page also has the chart below from Ford's documentation on a 60A 1G. It says a 460 would have a 3:1 pulley but doesn't show that curve. But I'd guess the output would be about 30A at 550 RPM. Using the 130A 3G ratio of 106A/130A I'd guess a 95A 3G would put out about 77A at 550 RPM. More than twice that of a 1G.

Jim - That's one approach and I may take it. But I want to understand what I have before making a decision, so I'm planning to spend a bit of time in the morning to check things out. Bill - As you saw I have two bungs on the DS exhaust pipe right behind the cone, and on the PS the one bung is on the cone. If I had it to do over again I might change that, and certainly would put a 2nd one on the PS, but I hope I don't have to do it again.

John - Would you like to be on our map in Lake Coeur d’Alene, Idaho? You can see the map on the page at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu.

Congratulations, Rick!!!

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. You've really been all over that truck! I can't think of anyone that's been through 4 engines.

No, unfortunately I pull that relay in via the LG/R from the ignition switch. I'd have been better off with the stator to pull it in because then I'd see quickly if the alternator failed because the voltmeter would go to 0. So now I'm looking at either changing that or taping into the fuel pump wiring. But I'm not 100% sure what I have in fuel pump wiring. This post says it is wired as is shown below, which doesn't show the oil pressure switch. But I thought I left it in the circuit, and I've got to document how that is wired before I move on. My preference would be to pick up the power right after the oil pressure switch, but if it ain't there...

Just talked to Jim at Innovate and he said the main problem people have is that they power the meter, and therefore the O2 sensor's heater, when the engine isn't running. So if you listen to the radio the heater has the sensor's ceramic element HOT, and if you then start the engine there's a wash of relatively cool air that hits the sensor and cracks it. That's exactly the way I have it wired, so I need to change the wiring to only power the meter when the engine is running. I'll have to see how best to do that, but I'm sure there's an easy way to do that via the relays in the PDB. Then, after I described my setup, he said I may also be overheating the O2 sensor since I'm running the AFR @ 14.7 and have ceramic-coated headers which keep the heat in. So he recommended the bung extension, although at 2" long I'll have to make a minor change. In the pic below, which is taken from below the driver's side exhaust, you can see the wide-band sensor for the Innovate AFR meter to the front/right and the narrow-band sensor for the EFI system to the left/rear. Adding the 2" bung extension in the front position would put the wires very close to the tranny, so I'll swap the sensor positions and then there'll be plenty of room for the extension.

Wow! What a difference! We woke up to temps in the 30s on our trip to western OK - and I didn't take a jacket.

Actually, last night I realized I was barking up the wrong tree - I actually have an AEM on the shelf but I'm using an MTX-L + from Innovate. That's because the folks @ Core Tuning said my AEM would read rich. So today I'll call Innovate and ask why I'm having this problem, again. But I'll also ask about this Innovate Motorsports 3729 Heat-Sink Bung Extender HBX-1 I found. The product description says:

I doubt you'll need them. And good catch on the fire extinguisher. I have one in Pluto just inside the driver's door. It's always there, so I never think about it. It's getting close! That's what I was thinking, so I'll probably just bring the old Merrill hiking shoes and another pair of shoes, just in case. Yes, it is getting CLOSE! However, judging by how tired we were from the 2-day trip last week we might leave a day early to take it even slower. Don't want to be worn out when we get there.