Gary Lewis

Same here. Im thinking about trying to get the pin out again tomorrow but my vice just doesnt grab too good and I refuse to clamp the cam itself in the vice. If I can get it out I am seriously contemplating using the spare pin I have and chucking it up in a drill and run sand paper over it to reduce the OD of the pin as the pin I tried using was a closer fit than the one that came with the cam but the one that came with the cam is excessively over sized. Only other idea I had was possibly drilling the hole in the cam slightly larger. The pin doesnt have to fit tight as I am installing the two piece fuel pump eccentric anyways and the tab that locates the eccentric on the cam gear will retain the cam pin from falling out. How about heating the cam a bit and using vise grips on the pin?

I like that seat. But I think you put the wrong link in, David.

That is quite a bit of leakage, but that's roughly what Big Blue's engine had when I pulled it out and it was running quite well. So I think if you get the cam problem sorted you'll be fine for 20k miles. But on the valve or cam problem, I'd do as Dave suggested - pull the side cover and measure the lift. I sure wouldn't want to pull the cam only to find out it isn't bad. Otherwise I think your plan is solid.

Wow! You've really come a long, long way on your truck in a short time. I'm seriously impressed.

Congrat's! That is SUCH a good feeling when it runs. And well done on the voltage drop for the ignition. However, they make ignition ballast resistors, so if those give you a problem... Well done also on the retard signal. But do you know that your module acts on it? Not all do. You might want to test it, and you'll know if it does as the idle speed will drop noticeably.

That's a bummer! I hope you can get the pin out and a new one in with no problem.

Looking good! You did well buying Elyza.

I should have asked, is that the Hardangerfjord? We cruised down it to Eidfjord. Is that where you were?

Yes, beautiful! Please keep the pictures coming!

I'm not really sure what a bad TPS would do while driving. But if it told the computer that you'd dropped the throttle to idle then the computer would drop the amount of fuel it is injecting. However, the throttle would still be open via the throttle cable, so the AFR would go really lean. And that might mean the engine would either die or run very roughly.

8? Yippee!!!

Oh, I forgot to add, if you shop around there are good deals on the tank with the FDM installed. I got the two of them shipped to me in one box for quite a bit less than the two would have cost individually.

Right on all counts, Cory & Bill. Big Blue is sporting mid-90's tanks, FDM's, & filler necks. And the plumbing is all new nylon hose with the proper connectors. Makes it simple to support later.

The same attachment points, yes...I get that part, it's just that it's much harder to work on trucks at the junkyard as many of them are parked too close together, and access is not always the best on both sides...and then everything is rusted into oblivion... However... So if I got the outside AC housing (I mean the whole section on the engine side of the firewall) from a 1988 or 1990 truck, would it bolt up and work with my 1980-1986 internal parts (inside the cab)? I'm going out to get a better look at these trucks this morning, and was just curious if I did want to swap over to that serpentine system, and thus swap in the serpentine drive AC compressor, could I then use some of the engine side AC housing to work with it? I'll keep my eyes open for a later system, but so far this is all I have access to. Oh, and what year trucks would have a 3G alternator? I'd need a harness to go with one I assume. I'll check those today as well. I put a 1990 A/C system in Big Blue, but used the '85 system in the cab. And it bolted right in with a minor exception - the vacuum lines run slightly differently in the two systems, but that's an easy fix. And you use the later blower motor. You can read about it in Big Blue's Transformation thread starting about here.

Do the later fuel systems have enough pressure that a second fuel pump is not required? Where did you install the Meter Match module? Yes, they do - at least they have enough pressure for the factory EFI systems, although I don't remember what that is. The Fuel Delivery Modules have the pump, sending unit, and switching valve in them. So you have two nylon hoses, supply and return, with a wye to go to the front tank if you have two tanks - which you won't have. Right? Anyway, everything is done in the FDM. But, if you are running only one tank then you do have more options that those of us with dual tanks. No need for the switching valve, for instance. So grafting an aftermarket pump into the existing sending unit is reasonable. As for the Meter Match, I put it under the steering column. Drop the filler panel under the column and there it is in case you want to recalibrate it. You place it between the sending unit and the gauge, and you need power and ground as well. Since you have to calibrate it after installation you don't want it in an inaccessible place. Speaking of which, you have three possible set points: Full; Mid; Empty. You don't have to play with Mid, but you do the other two. But Mid helps as the potentiometer is apparently not linear and the gauge will drop pretty rapidly and then stay just above Empty for a loooooong time. But setting Mid helps that.

My understanding is that oil to the rockers comes up the push rods as the lifter is pushed up by the cam. So my assumption has been that with a wiped cam lobe there won't be much pushing up of the lifter, hence little if any oil to the rockers. And speaking of wiped cam lobes, I've been reading lately of problems with Comp's cams having that problem. I don't know if this is because they sell a lot of cams so there's more chance that people don't break them in correctly, or if they are having problems. But I'd research whatever manufacturer I was considering before buying.

That is a good offer, David. And I, too, and looking forward to seeing everyone!

Sorry, late to the show. But the MPC says: E6TZ 16450-E is for a 80/86 F150/350 (Regular Cab).

Small world! So you knew quite well what I was referring to.

Glad you got it out. Before deciding on what to do, and before pulling it apart, I would do a leak-down test. Harbor Freight has a tester that looks pretty good, but there are others as well. To me, a key thing for them to have is an on-board regulator and two gauges. A leak-down tester allows you to inject air into the cylinder via the spark plug hole when the cylinder is at TDC, meaning the valves are closed. The air comes in via a tiny orifice and if there is leakage you'll see that as lower pressure due to the drop across the orifice. It will determine if you have valve leaks, head gasket leaks, or a cracked block, and how tight the rings are. If your engine passes on all of those things then just pull the cam and lifters and replace them.

Welcome back, Kotter!

It is difficult to guess why things like that fail. Clearly the problem wasn't the ground - unless your fender isn't grounded. Have you checked that?

Well, that was actually 1.5 steps toward. One for the clutch and half for figuring out it really is the relay. Well done! 😉

Yes, thank you for your service. And, Hawaii might be a fun place to be stationed. But I hope HBF gets to go soon.

Factory EEC-V EFI is tunable, but it isn't cheap. I think I paid $600 for the hardware and software to do it, not including the EFI stuff itself. And then you have to tune it, and I don't think it is anything nearly as easy as with an aftermarket system. However, when you are done you have something that you could take to most mechanics and have the codes read and parts replaced. I'm not sure how true that is of aftermarket. Most of the aftermarket I've seen is throttle body rather than port injection, so properly set up the factory stuff will be more accurate. But the aftermarket will still be better than a carb, so the ease of installation and tuning may be worth it. For a fuel system, I went with the later fuel delivery modules. They have been used for many years, and much more recently than the Bullnose stuff, so should be available much longer. The only issue is making the sending unit work with the Bullnose gauge, and a Meter Match does that.