Gary Lewis

Welcome! Glad you joined! I agree with Jim - I'd go with a 400. While they don't have the "love" and aftermarket support of a 460, they can be very strong. And not having to change a lot of things would make it so much easier than a 460. (And probably a lot less thirsty.) To get started on learning about what you have, go here: Documentation/Specifications/Certification Label. Or, if you want to jump right in and decode the VIN go here: Documentation/Specifications/VIN Decoding. But note the difference between a 1980 VIN and a 1981 and later VIN. Back on the engine, as I said the 335 Series doesn't have the aftermarket support of the 351W or the 460. But there is support. And my recommendation is that you scope out what Tim Meyer, of TMeyer fame, has to offer. One of the problems with building a 351M is that no one makes pistons that will give a good compression ratio for them. But slip a 400 crank in the block, assuming that your engine is a 351M, and you'll find that Tim has the pistons you need to have a reasonable compression ratio.

Thanks Gary, I didn't know there was another option. Can you send me the link to the part? Check this thread: Master Cylinder Rust/Leaks And this post: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/My-1984-F150-2wd-Flareside-Project-Blue-Mule-tp4515p33437.html

Is Bisquik1959 still around? Anybody know what color that console is? Gary, I was looking at the picture of the colors you posted...are they all of the blues available? I want to order one but none of those blues really like my 1984 seat...although Bisquik's looks good. Yes, that's supposed to be all of them. But order swatches as they look different in person than on the computer.

Carl - Do you have all of the cable but it is broken? If so, a lawnmower shop may be able to make a new one for you.

I like the Cooper Maxx ST’s on Big Blue, but haven’t heard about the Evolution. Hope you like them.

Glad you got it shut down without more damage. That must have been quite a show. What tires are you going with? Those were pretty noisy.

Looking REALLY good! Excellent work!

Here's a link to my "business card" if that might help. And this is what it looks like. Note that while our URL is going to change when we move to the new servers, this one will be re-directed to the new one so there won't be a problem.

Yes, let's get this going again. I'm going to move several posts from the Fuel tank, sending unit and radiator... [Ford Truck Show - 9/4/21] thread here. But it'll look slightly disjointed as in the first post I move here will be the one by John/Machspeed where he replies to David/1986F150Six and mentions decals.

Looks amazing! If you weren't keeping it all stock I'd urge you to go with the later master cylinder with the aluminum body and plastic reservoir. They don't rust nor leak, and you don't have to pull the cover off to see if you need to fill them.

Nice, but no A/C. I REALLY appreciate A/C since I can drive with the windows up and not be so tired when I get there.

I think that is a wise move. I used to think I could do everything, but I've learned that some things just go better if I get a pro to do it. And having a pro build the engine gives me peace of mind. And, as you said, this will let you rebuild other things in parallel as well as do other things besides trucks.

I suspect they are using the GM HEI ignition module, although I don't see that they really tell us. But the reason that is important is that the HEI module is a current hog. I would use #10 or at least #12 wire through a relay to the distributor and use the existing ignition wire to pull the relay in.

Wonderful view, and a great shot of a beautiful truck. Yes, that is great MPG. As for the AFR, the hotter the inlet air temp the richer it gets. And since it is hotter outside than before, it'll be much hotter under the hood and the radiator is having to work harder. So yes, you should install the cold air ducting.

Hahaha. That’s great I love it when a seller has a sense of humour. Yeah, only one pic. But for $2200 and if it "runs and drives great" then it could be a buy.

Well, at least we agree on the running boards.

Yes, we sailed the length of the fjord. And we drove/rode in a coach along some of those roads, for sure! Beautiful country!!!!

Yippee! Glad you got the pin out.

Hagerty says it is worth that. And if the turbo was added correctly it should be a strong truck. But I'm not a C6 fan, so that's a big negative to me.

Still doing some packing for the trip. I added my DVM/tach/dwell meter to the toolbox to aid in setting the idle mix and speed. And, it will come in handy if we run into any electrical problems. Was going to put in a vacuum gauge, but I have the one that David gave me on the steering column, so no need for another one. As for the carb work, I'll need either that 1/4" socket or a T-15 Torx bit for the metering rod cover, so I was trying to figure out how to handle that when it hit me that I have a Ryobi set of 1/4" drive bits that seem to cover most applications I might ever come across. But I was struggling to find a magnetic driver for them until I remembered a set that I used to have, and while the bits are long gone I still have the handle and the case. So I worked through what bits are in the Ryobi set, which has multiples of everything, and pulled out the ones shown below: T-6 through T-40 1/16" through 9/32 SQ1 through 3 PH0 through 3 Cabinet 4 through 12 Here they are in the box, and some of you might recognize the Brownell's driver. And on the right is where I'm thinking I'll cut a piece out of the Ryobi kit and put it in the box. And that will include those sockets from 1/4" to 1/2". Anyone with a better idea?

Chris - I have used that kit. Or, maybe I should say part of this kit. Here's the story... Scott talked with the owner at DMT and, I think, sent him gaskets to use as templates So when I needed the one to attach the underhood plenum to the firewall for Big Blue I contacted him and agreed a price. And waited. And waited. So I contacted him again and found that he doesn't really want to sell just the individual gaskets. He hadn't priced them individually initially and when he got to thinking about it what he'd said he would sell it to me for he found that he wasn't going to make any money. So I bought a full set for Dad's truck and the one piece for Big Blue and both of us were happy. And when they came in, quickly I might add, the one for Big Blue fit perfectly.

I've been doing some home work and will be replacing my old tube and fin unit with a plate and fin unit, for the reason you stated above. Funny, I've been looking at those same Derale units myself along with a couple of Hayden units and can't seem to make a decision. The Derale coolers are Chinese while the Hayden coolers are supposedly Australian. Thanks for the response! According to the tech at Derale all their coolers have AN fittings. And those fittings add up, so if you find a cooler that matches what fittings you have you might let that influence your decision.

Nice! 5.8L with MAF EFI and E4OD is the combo that I'd want. Not sure about the color, but it could grow on me.

That's cool! Congrat's!!!

Thats what I thought about, I just dont know how I could hold the cam outside of clamping the cam in the vise itself. I thought about grabbing the pin with a vise grip while holding the cam and trying to turn the pin but I know I wouldnt be able to hold the cam from turning by hand. I also thought about cutting the pin off flush and using my center punch to mark the softer pin and then just drilling the pin out. Its just everything I come up with requires the cam to be clamped in a vise some way to hold it. How about strapping the cam to a table or workbench? In my case I could put a towel down on the work table, put another towel on the cam and a 2x4 on top of that, and wrap a ratchet strap around the table and cam over the 2x4. But I sure wouldn't cut it off flush.