Gary Lewis

Maybe because it is for the little Ranger?

Yes, the automatics have filters. But I'm confused about the "70.9B" that you said is your parts list. I can't find that parts list in the MPC, nor any mention of 70.9. But I did find this table which shows the designations for each automatic tranny and I don't see a 70.9. What am I missing? What transmission are you working on? CATALOG PART LISTS ILLUSTRATION DESCRIPTION and TYPE IDENTIFICATION SECTION SECTION Automatic 3 speed C3 A70.1 A70.1 Automatic 3 speed C4 A70.2 A70.2 Automatic 3 speed C6 A70.3 A70.3 Automatic overdrive-(PKB) A0T(F1OD) A70.4 A70.4 Automatic 3 speed C5 A70.8 A70.8 Automatic Overdrive 4 speed A4LD A70.11 A70.11 Automatic Overdrive 4 speed (PRA) E40D A70.15 A70.15

Looking our page on Documentation/Interior/Interior Trim it looks like that is base PN 27880. And the MPC says that it is a "RETAINER (BODY REAR CORNER PANEL TRIM)" and the Nylon ones are E0TZ 1027880-A. Unfortunately I don't see it in the Auveco catalog nor the Standard & Utility Parts Catalog. So I did a Google search and these are the few results: https://www.google.com/search?q=E0TZ+1027880-A&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS884US884&sxsrf=ALeKk01yUTKG71vLbrG3vWRcYguuk0dtUw:1626791330331&source=lnt&tbs=li:1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj3qvj67fHxAhUXrJ4KHUxNCt4QpwV6BAgBECs&biw=1600&bih=757

Yep, on a roll: Good luck with the carpet. Two heads/four hands are better than one/two, so I'd wait for him. You may have to screw one side down and stretch the other side to get it to align, and one person can pull and the other secure. So I'd tackle the interior pieces tonight.

I love a good pun! I think that was 2/3's of a pun: PU!

That was quick!

The one below looks good as it looks like Big Blue, although w/o the winch bumper. But therein lies a problem - if we use a side view then it doesn't really work for Broncos. Or crewcabs. Nor Flaresides. I guess that suggests we stay with a head-on shot or just the grille?

I think I like the idea of cutting the pin off since you'll have the eccentric holding it in. But I don't think I'd use red Loctite on the cam bolt. You aren't going to get that out w/o heating things and you may destroy the cam doing so. I would use blue or, if I'm really wanting to ensure it doesn't move, use the new orange. On the timing chain, if you've had them align-bore the main bearings the distance from there to the cam might be different than stock. But measuring that accurately wouldn't be easy. You'd have to measure from the crank to the center of the cam and then subtract 1/2 the diameter of the crank. But can you accurately measure to the center of the cam?

I think if you dua-little each day you'll eventually get there.

I haven't rebuilt an NP435, but you can look at the factory shop manual on it here: Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/NP435.

Welcome. Don't forget to check that ground and all grounds. You said that it might be a plug that hasn't been connected, but if they painted the truck and didn't get the grounds back solidly then that may be the problem. In fact, IIRC, Bill/85Lebaront2 has said several times that there is a ground on some of the trucks near the battery and it has frequently caused problems.

You are now on the map.

It isn't a problem at all. We even have a moderator with an '87 and no Bullnose. So let's continue to work the issue. But the only issue this might cause is that there might be some wiring changes between '86 and '87, so we will have to be careful. I think I have an '87 EVTM, so tomorrow I'll compare it to the '86 version and see if there are differences I can spot.

I like the look of the dual carbs.

Oh yes, I wanted to add your picture. It is too large of a file, meaning it is larger than 1Mb, so I used the Resize option and put it to Big. You can read about that on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. But now that I have, I'm confused. That looks to be an '87 or later and you said it is an '86.

Yep, that happens. But all is well. On Page 107 of the '86 EVTM there's a troubleshooting section for the fuel pump. Since you know you are getting power, the only applicable suggestion is to check that G701 is clean and tight. It is the ground behind the instrument panel, pretty much right behind the radio.

Welcome! Glad you joined - and posted in here. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu above) and we can add you if we have a city/state or zip.

The Thick Film Integration (TFI) modules are notorious for failing. I'm not 100% sure what the symptoms are, but I do think they can allow the engine to run, albeit poorly. In later years Ford moved the module to the fender to get it away from the heat of the engine. We do have the STALL/NO START: TSB 87-6-10 on the site, but I'm not sure it is the one you need.

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! Glad you joined. But before we dive into problem solving we need to discuss our guidelines. You probably missed the email you were sent asking you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then introduce yourself by starting a new thread in that folder. Don't worry, about 50% of the people miss that email/step. However, at least the "read the guidelines" portion of that step is important as we hold everyone to those guidelines. So we want to make sure you've had a chance to read them. Given that, please assure me that you've read them and then we can get on with the problem solving.

Ben - I believe your pics are of the "fuel tank selector valve", which is shown in the lower left of the schematic below, and since it only has three ports that means you should have a traditional mechanical fuel pump on the engine. And while those fuel pumps can fail, I don't remember them causing the symptoms you are seeing. Looking at the EVTM I see that you should have the EEC-III system, which controls ignition. If the pickup in the distributor or the TFI module on the distributor are failing they can cause problems when they get warm. And you said the problems started after ~10 minutes of driving, right? Give us a few more clues on how the engine ran when the problems started. Did it happen suddenly? When does it clear up - after the truck sits and cools off?

I think it is a bit too rich. The fact that it started, idled rough, and then died and wouldn't easily start with ether says rich to me. Most chokes have the ability to floor the throttle and open the choke up to get past a too-rich situation. You might pull the air cleaner and open the throttle fully (with the engine off but coldish) and see if it opens the choke. If so, then that's a way past that problem. But the correct way is to loosen the three screws and back the choke off maybe 1 notch.

Could you describe "it" a bit more? In other words, tell us what it did and didn't do when you did this and that. I suspect you have just a bit too much or too little choke, but we need to see some detail to guess which way.

At least through 1989: 80/ F-U100/250 - - A/C (dealer installed) E0TZ 19A962-A

Good point, Jim. I missed that.

Solid state circuits can present odd voltages when using high-impedance meters, so I’m not too surprised at the .3v reading. But a diode sure won’t hurt.