Gary Lewis

I would check out the wiring to the DS-II module, as shown below from the 1985 EVTM. Check the voltages at C321 and C323, which will tell you if the wiring is solid.

Yes, it does sound like the module was retarded. (Pun intended. ) And, I agree you'd better check what you have now for the initial timing as you might have too much. However, if it is really at 16 I'd expect it to kick back on starting w/o the retard feature hooked up, so maybe it isn't advanced that far.

The only way I know of to test the module is via a Rotunda test kit that the Ford dealerships used. But even they won't catch the failing-via-heat issue until the failing starts. However, if with all of the components hot you can sail up the hill on the good tank and not on the other then it has to do with the fuel system. And at 2 psi I'd say the issue is the pump.

Frank - Might it be an ignition problem? The DS-II modules and the pickup in the distributor can both cause similar symptoms when they get hot.

I think you’ve solved the problem, and if you don’t need the retard function then there’s no need to hook it up. But, you might get even better throttle response with more initial timing, and then you might need the retard function.

I've emailed the two of you so you'll have each other's address. )

I've not gotten an email. But our host, Nabble, has been making changes that may have killed our ability to email via the forum. So until we move to the AWS servers we may not be able to use that system. I can email the two of you outside of the forum if you'd like.

Let us know what you do and how it goes, please. That's how we learn.

I can email the two of you outside the forum if needed.

A/T is automatic transmission and M/T is manual. And it does seem like it shows a different valve. You don’t think yours has been changed? If so, maybe your part was superseded?

You should have a T-18 as the T-19's came on the 460's and diesels and won't bolt up to a smallblock. Big Blue, with a 460/T-19/3.55/33" tire combo started OK from a stop in 2nd. But by swapping only the tranny to a ZF5 things are just a bit too "tall" for easy 2nd gear starts. I still do it, but have to rev the engine just a bit. And that was changing from a 3.03:1 2nd gear to a 2.94:1. When I put the D60 in front I was faced with either re-gearing it from 4.10 to 3.54 or changing the rear from 3.55 to 4.10. In hind sight I wish I'd gone with the 4.10's as it would have made 2nd gear starts much easier and the increase in R's on the highway probably wouldn't have made a lot of difference - it is a 460 and gets poor MPG anyway. So, were I you, I'd play with the calculator at Documentation/Driveline/Calculator and see what you think. You can see the gear ratios for the transmissions and play with rear axle ratios to your heart's content.

There's an adapter screwed into the radiator. Can you get it out and just put a new fitting into the radiator? Or, what am I missing?

I don't recognize that fitting. Is it a flared fitting?

CX-1061 is the Motorcraft number, and it cross references to Ford PN E4PZ 9D448-R, which will have an ID # of E0TE 9D448-L1A. (Some people don't know that a number on a Ford part is the ID #, not the part #.)

I'm along for the ride. For body panels, Jim/Ardwrkntrk put me onto Tabco years ago and my paint/body man was thrilled with their products. On emissions deletion, you might want to see this thread, although it is just getting started. There's been quite a bit of discussion on here about chemicals to treat rust, but I'll leave that to those that have done it.

Sounds like a really fun job. Hope you got it done.

The pin locks were phased in during '81, but the latching mechanism is interchangeable with one minor difference: if you put a pin style lock in it'll lock in the unlock position and vice versa. To say it differently, if you put a slide-style lock in a pin style door lock will be with the button pulled up and unlock with be with it pushed down. Similarly, a pin-style lock in a slide-style door will have it locked in the unlock position. But otherwise the locks are identical and can be swapped.

You'll be driving it soon!

Thanks, Bill. Do you think it was the heat that caused the tees to break or might they be in a bind?

The procedure and specs are on the first page of the factory shop manual section on the Instructions tab at Documentation/Driveline/4WD FRONT HUBS & ROTORS.

Congrat's!! Glad you have it on the road.

Amen, brother! I struggled for decades with the one-size-fits-all (but never fits anything) snap ring plier sets. The ones with the little hex-shaped inserts that turn, or flex, or break. I finally bought the KNIPEX Tools 00 20 04 SB, Precision Circlip Snap-Ring Pliers 8-Piece Set and love them.

Well, that might explain it.

I've purchased my transmission and t-case rebuild components from Midwest Transmission. They know their stuff and have had good pricing. I like buying from people who are in "that business". I'll give you an example of why. When I was rebuilding my BW1345 t-case I discovered that there are two different seals that have the same ID and OD. A quick call to Midwest and they told me which went where. Can the people at JBG do that?

I have blue as well as red thread locker I thought about using blue but then started second guessing if it would be strong enough to hold the bolt from backing out under the conditions the cam is exposed to, for me I would rather be more cautious than not cause Ive been lucky before just tightening the cam bolt on previous engines as tight as I could till the engine started spinning and didnt have any problem. But with how much money I have in this build I dont know if I want to skimp on that detail. Well part of the rebuild process is having the crank aligned honed which I dont think changed the distance but part of me would still line to double check it considering the price difference in timing sets is $50 for one and $110 for the other. I guess I could just take a chance on it, worse case is if there is a difference the chain would be super loose and I could always send it back saying its not right and get a refund on it. If you haven't you should try the new Permatex® High Strength Removable Threadlocker ORANGE: