Gary Lewis

Well, they are right - that's a very rare color. In fact, I suspect it is a special order for the Forestry Service. Not my favorite, but the truck sure looks straight. As for the price, it is kind of steep but may be well worth it. Looks like the tires are in good shape, it appears to have new springs and a lift kit, and new exhaust. A 351W and E4OD would be a reasonable combo for cruising.

Oh no! I forgot to ask where home is? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu above) and we can add you if we had a city/state or zip.

Welcome to the forum! Glad you joined. Sounds like a wonderful project. Hope you'll start a thread in the main section to chronicle the progress you make on the truck. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu above) and we can add you if we had a city/state or zip.

Welcome to the forum! Glad you joined. Sounds like a wonderful father/son project. Don't fear having your son join here as we keep it family friendly. You might want to clone your post and start a new thread in the main section. That's because this NMSH folder doesn't get as much traffic as the main section so more people will see it and likely comment there. As for the project, it does sound like a great way for a father & son to bond. And that should be a really solid truck when you get it going. The 351W is very well supported in the aftermarket and makes good torque as well as HP, which is perfect for a truck. And yet it won't guzzle quite the way my 460 does. The main difference between 302 and 351W heads is the bolt hole size as the 351 takes larger bolts than the 302. But 351W heads will work fine on a 302 as the locating dowels are what position the head, so you have a wide range of options. On the cam, if you are going to use it as a truck then I'd suggest going with one that makes torque from idle. Yes, you'll be giving up HP, but it is the torque that is needed in a heavy vehicle like a truck. I don't have any specific recommendations, but others will. Similarly you want an intake that works at low R's, and that will be a dual plenum one like the Edelbrock Performer. Anyway, good luck! I'm anxious to follow along.

I think you may have figured it out. I've not had the ignition module do that, but it sure could. And if you having some other symptoms of a failing module then that's probably it. One way to ensure this doesn't happen is to put a diode in the wire such that the relay can supply power to the module but not the other way 'round. Please let us know what you find out.

You are on the map.

Well that's progress, and as Jim says progress is good!

We don't have a how-to on removing the emissions equipment. There are several reasons for that, one of which is that removing it isn't legal, so telling you how to do that on a static page on the website might be a huge red flag. Another is that there are way too many different systems used on these trucks to have a cookie-cutter approach to it. Some trucks have no computer. Some have a computer that controls the ignition timing and carb. And some have a computer that controls the EFI. And each of those different systems requires different changes. Having said that, there are some standard things, and your 460 is one of the easier ones to discuss: EGR: This system doesn't use any power, so there's no advantage in removing it. But if you do you should have the advance curve in the distributor modified as the vacuum advance may cause pinging w/o EGR. Air Injection Reaction: This is the system with air pumps that inject air into the exhaust and/or catalytic converter. This system also doesn't use much power and helps tame the exhaust. But if you want to remove it you'll need to plug where the air goes into the engine and exhaust. Vapor Collection: You should have two vapor canisters under the battery that tie into the fuel tank vents, and then a valve arrangement that allows vacuum to pull the vapors into the carb and burn them. And since it doesn't use any power at all I'd leave it. Does that help?

Sorry for your problems. That's a bummer! Hopefully your engine builder can fix it.

Wow, Bill! That doesn't sound like fun. But apparently the electronics can save the engine in a situation like that, which is great. But maybe they need that kind of electronics due to the plastic tees? Anyway, glad you got it home ok and everyone is safe.

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu above) and can add you if we had a city/state or zip.

Hey, I know where that is! Used to live in Elgin. Anyway, you are on the map.

I'm creating a trailer queen and sparing few expenses, but $200/set for the lock sliders gives me pause. So I think the ones in plastic would be more likely to sell if you can get the price down quite a bit. Anyway, I'm glad someone is working on making things for these trucks!

Super Bird with the huge wing? Those are rare! And expensive. On the stumble, it could be either fuel or ignition, but I'd think ignition would take longer to cool than the carb. So I'm with you, it may be vapor lock. Are you running ethanol?

Ok, you are now good to go. On the carb, the only way to really determine which one you had is to determine the calibration code. In the menu above is a page at Documentation/Calibration Info & Part #'s. In there are pictures of a calibration label like the one that was originally on your engine, usually on the passenger's side valve cover. If you can find that we can determine exactly which carb it had. If not, you can probably get close by going to the Application To Parts List tab on that page and finding the 1, 2, or 3 parts list #'s that might apply to your truck. With that I should be able to get the carb #.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu above) and can add you with a zip or city/state. And now I'll go back to the Projects thread.

Welcome! Glad you joined. But, you probably missed the email that Jim sent you asking you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then introduce yourself by starting a new thread in that folder. That is important as we hold everyone to the guidelines so want you to have a chance of reading them. So, can you assure me you've read them?

You are now on the map. As for posting, you'll do fine. We all mess up from time to time, and no one is keeping track.

Yep. From our page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion:

I've been looking over the DNS settings and they look wonky to me. So I've asked my mentor, Greg, to take a look and shared access to the GoDaddy account with him. I'm hoping this explains things to someone that understands CNAME, forwarding, etc - and I don't. So let's hold off on any more testing 'cause I'm really thinking this might be "it". Thanks, folks!

Dane - Thanks. I think I understand. Jim - All three links point to the same code running on the AWS servers. It is just that the page on this site that you get to via the link in the menu, which has the Bullnose icon, and the Weebly one, which has the W on the tab, are embedded so it looks like it is on that website. But the direct-in one, with the N for Nabble on the tab, isn't embedded. I don't know enough to know what is different between one and the other. Where's a crying face?

Glad they are quieter. Wasn't going to say it, but the old ones were LOUD! When I got the truck it had a Flowmaster on it and it was noisy so I didn't notice the tires. Replaced it with a Magnaflow and that fixed the exhaust noise but then I realized how noisy the tires were. So I can imagine how much better it is with quieter tires.

Thanks Myrl883, You answered some questions that I had! So I had some plans this morning that got screwed up, so I marched straight out to the junkyard as there were two Bricknoses there, both with 5.0's and factory AC. The one 1990 was bone stock original and still perfectly intact under the hood...the belt was even still on ot. The other, a 1988 had had the AC disabled at some point and a delete pulley/bracket was installed in place of the AC compressor. Anyway, I was able to remove it all fairly quickly...I think it maybe took me 45 mins by the time I got it all loaded into my trusty wheelbarrow. The one major snag I ran into was the long 7/16" pivot bolt for the alternator was seized in the alternator and in the bracket, and badly too. I got it removed when I got home, and drilled the broken bolt out, but it was extremely unfun. I grabbed the whole works, and will be returning some parts tomorrow. So I grabbed the whole system off a 1990 Bricknose. One the way out, I grabbed the AC delete bracket/pulley from the 1988, only to find out when I got home that it wouldn't work on the 1990 assembly...they were different, buggers. Not a big deal really, I'm planning on installing AC anyway. I was wondering how I was going to piece together several different years worth of AC parts to make the whole system work, and with the little bit of studying I have been doing, it looks like this isn't too bad. Correct me if I am wrong, but I should be able to run a 1990 AC compressor, and the 1pc line that is available for it, along with my Bullnose era AC system. It looks like everything should play well together. According to the aftermarket, the accumulators were the same from 1983-1993, and the condensers the same from 1980-1993, so the 1pc line for the 1990 AC compressor should work just fine. I'll just order a Bullnose evaporator and liquid hose (I have one now, removed from a 1986). I should also be able to run a shorter serpentine belt since I have no smog pump? Do you know what size is required? I'm going to get my parts all sand blasted and painted, and get ready to do this swap. I can't answer all those questions, but Big Blue is sporting a 1990 underhood system, inc condenser, evaporator, compressor, receiver/dryer, and plenum. Bolted right up to the 1985 firewall with the '85 system inside the cab. As previously said, the only issue was that the vacuum lines run slightly differently so I had to make a minor mod there. No biggee at all. So, why not get the evaporator and condenser from the truck where you got the other parts? If the system was all together they should be fine if you flush them. That's exactly what I did and it works nicely.

Dane - So all three worked for you?

It helps, Bill. Thanks. But another piece of the puzzle is how logging in works from the same machine & browser on all three instances: (Note: These are in Bill's order with one added.) Embedded On Weebly: This is the one on the new website with the blue WEEBLY banner at the bottom and the W on the tab. Not Embedded: This is the direct-in version and it should have an N on the tab. This should always work regardless of machine or browser. Embedded On Bullnose Bible: This is the one you get to via the menu at the top of the website and it'll have the Bullnose icon on the tab. All three should have exactly the same info, and look roughly the same although when you embed something the page will be narrower. They are just different ways of getting to the same thing, but for some reason the first two don't work in many cases and, as far as I know, the last one always works.