Gary Lewis

Nice early Bronco. Looks like it could be truly restored fairly easily. Bet it goes for a bunch.

That's an interesting approach to mounting switches. You'd have plenty of room back there for the wiring.

Yes, glad you got the ignition going. On the hubs, I did like Jim and went with Warn Premiums. I like the almost full turn of engagement as it is positive - Lock or Unlock doesn't change. And the longer turn means they are easier to turn with your fingers.

Frank - I was wondering if cleaning the lifters might work. The guy on Youtube said he had a tapping sound under load, which seems to be similar.

Not getting oil is bad, obviously, so I'm glad you didn't take my advice. You were right to check it out, and your findings prove you have a problem. But I can't answer your question on the valve lash adjustment other than to say I'd follow the factory service manual's guidance.

I had real fits with the Mile Markers I had on one truck. The heads stripped out internally when I tried to back them out. I tried left-handed extractors, to no avail. I finally had to drill them out like you may have to do, but I was able to get new screws from Mile Marker. So, when I put hubs on now I use anti-seize on the threads and the heads of the screws. I sure don't want to have to do that again.

Yes, Jim, I'm sure these are about the best clamps that I could use. I say "about" as I've read that the 2-eared clamps actually clamp tighter. However, I don't think I could use them as I can't get to the back side in most of the places I used them. And, these are TIGHT, so I doubt I would want anything tighter. Plus, none of the 2-eared clamps I've seen have the inner slider that covers the gap of the ear, so there are spots on the hose that don't get clamped. I like what I have. As for the next layer, that is the bed cover. The weather man says we aren't going to have rain tomorrow, the first time in what seems like years, so I'm going to put Big Blue in the driveway and back Blue up to him. The beds are basically at the same height so with a blanket on Blue's bed cover I can slide BB's bed cover on it, inspect the glides and replace the bad ones, and then slide it back in. But only after I measure the tracks and figure out where it appears to be tight and fix that. Then when I slide it back in I'll check for tightness and adjust from there. Hopefully I can get it working smoothly. And that is the last big layer of the onion I intend to tackle before the trip. I'll probably add the DC power ports in the bed and the lights, but they aren't needed and won't be a big deal. After that it is little things, like changing oil and filter, rotating tires, lubing tie rods and ball joints, checking all of the fasteners, etc. Starting to feel like I'm almost "there". '

Well done, Cory! I need to have a similar day, or days in my case, to get BB ready for his trip in Sept. As for the rain, we've had several year's worth over the last few days. In fact, it was supposed to be completely dry today but there was a down pour out of nowhere. I hope you don't get that much.

Well, sports fans, we have a tie! Both Farm Boy's 83 F100 and Andre's 82 Ford Bronco Ranger got 4 votesSo we are going to have a runoff. Please vote, below, for one of these trucks during the next week and then we'll declare a winner. Farmboy's 83 F100 Andre's 82 Ford Bronco Ranger

That's a good read, Dave. Thanks!

I think you may have a problem with the rollover valve. It sits in the top of the tank and if its grommet is cracked or shrunk it can leak when you get the tank completely full. And if it is stuck partially shut, or if the vent hose is partially clogged, then you could be pulling a vacuum on the tank as you drive, which will prevent the fuel pump from keeping the carb full of gas. But I'm not quite sure why it would start working again, unless by bogging down that releases the vacuum? Is this the front or rear tank? The top of the front tank can usually be reached from under the truck, although getting a good look at the valve and its grommet might be difficult. Perhaps with a camera? And check the vent hose that is connected to it. The hose must not be blocked.

Well done!

The Oetiker-style clamps came in today and I quickly installed them - and they work! Or, at least have worked for maybe an hour at this point between 150 and 200 psi. The system kicks off at 200 psi then the air slowly cools and leaks out such that the pressure drops to 150 over about 30 minutes, at which point the compressor comes back in and takes the pressure back to 200. As of now we've survived two cycles, but I'm not going to leave it plugged in overnight. However, while I work in the shop tomorrow I'll leave it plugged in and it can cycle all it wants. Then, when I'm convinced that it is going to work I'll see if I can figure out where the slow leak is and repair it. As you can see below, the Oetiker clamp, on the right, pulls the hose in more tightly than the EFI clamp on the left. And that EFI clamp is absolutely maxed out with an ID of .553". But by my measurements the ID of the Oetiker clamp is .506", which matches very nicely with the stated value of 12.5 mm, which is .504". And that's the "15.3 mm" clamp, which must mean that the smaller dimension is the clamped value and the larger dimension the open value. Thanks for the suggestion, Jim! It looks like these are definitely the way to go for high-pressure connections.

Yes, I was able to watch the video, but in order to make sure others can I'll embed it here. (I can do that by getting the Share/Embed code from Youtube, ticking the "Message is in HTML Format" box above, and pasting it in.) You are right that there is less oil flow on that valve. But oil flow to valves is a binary thing - there is either enough or not. More than "enough" doesn't help. In fact, all the oil that goes to the valves is taken away from that going to the bearings, so you don't really want a whole lot of flow. But it doesn't take much to block a lifter's orifice and stop the flow. So that raises the question of what the inside of the engine looks like. In other words, is it really clean and there's not likely to be pieces of gunk in the oil flow? What you found under the valve cover would suggest it is clean, so I think I'd put the cover on and drive it. And if you find that the noise comes back frequently then I'd figure out what the issue is. The valve and side covers aren't that hard to take off on that engine if you need to do so.

On the gauges, you need to do some troubleshooting to figure out what the issue(s) is. If you have full gauges for oil pressure, water temp, and ammeter then it could be the connector on the back of the gauge cluster, as you said. But, that connector rarely fails. And the other common denominator for those three gauges is the instrument cluster voltage regulator - ICVR. Go to Documentation/Electrical/Gauges and then the Troubleshooting tab for a discussion on how to work through that.

As you can see on our page at Documentation/Fuel Systems/Fuel System Part #'s/Fuel Tanks your 1982 long bed (133" wheelbase) should have a 19 gallon midship, aka front, tank. Note that it says it has a "2 1/2" dia. fuel sender access hole". That's key because in '85 the hole went to 4" to allow the fuel pump to be put in the tank. Then if you go to the page at Documentation/Fuel Systems/Fuel System Part #'s/Fuel Senders & Pumps you'll find a table that includes the one below, which says you need Ford Part # E0TZ 9275-G. But those may be extremely hard to find, so you'll probably go with an aftermarket brand. I'd recommend that you use the Rock Auto catalog to find what you need. However, I'm not saying you should buy from RA as that can be problematic. Returns can be difficult to do. But their catalog is the best out there. In my case I was able to find the Spectra part number that way and then found a tank and sending unit together on Amazon for a very good price.

Chris - You are now on the map.

No prob, Chris. It happens. On the tank, I'm not sure how easy it is to change from one size side tank to another as I've not done it. But I think it is easy. As for the sending unit, if it is working I'd use it again. That's 'cause the replacements frequently have problems. But check the hoses, meaning the one from the tank to the hard line on the rail as well as the one from the hard line to the pump. The rubber wasn't designed for ethanol in the gas and that tends to soften them to the point they can leak - fuel out and air in. That kills the vacuum of the pump and the engine stops running.

Welcome Chris! And Betty! Glad you joined. No harm, no foul on jumping the gun. Many have, particularly of late with the issues we are having with the joining process. What part of Tejas? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd be happy to add you if we had a city or a zip.

There is a slight difference in the ratios between the 9" and 8.8 rearends. The 9" had a 3.00:1, while comparable 8.8 was 3.08:1, and same with the lower gears...3.50:1 in the 9" became 3.55:1 in the 8.8 differential. I don't know if you can run, lets say a 3.50:1 with a 3.55:1 on the same truck, but I'm sure it's fine on a loose surface. Dry pavement, maybe not. Converting the D44 to match the 9" rear diff might be the easiest solution (if required), rather than the other way around. Does your truck still have either of the factory buck tags, either or the firewall or the front right corner of the bed? Might be able to see the differential code on one of them if they are still intact. Looking at the FRONT DRIVING AXLE CROSS-REFERENCE GUIDE (Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials and then the Front Axle tab and the Applications List tab) there were only a few options: 3.00; 3.07; 3.50; 3.54; 3.73; 4.09; and 4.10. Comparing that to the rear axle options that I think were used in the 4wd trucks it looks like the front is usually the same as or slightly higher geared than the rear. So 3.00 in the rear got 3.00 in the front. And 3.50 in the rear got 3.50 in the front. But 3.55 in the rear probably got 3.54 in the front. In other words, they wanted the front to pull just a bit more than the rear. So I'm not sure that a 9" with 3.50's in the rear and 3.54's in the front, assuming that's what you have, is what I'd want to do. I think I'd use the matching 8.8" in the rear.

That's quite the story. Or, should I say "quite the quiet story"? Yes, door and window seals make a huge difference, and they are to be highly recommended. On the noise, I'm going to guess that something cause a lifter on #2 to not pump up properly on that start, but that in reality all is well. However, since you can remove the valve cover I would check out the rocker and pushrod. As for #2 not changing the idle when you pull the plug wire, I've seen that before and have always assumed exactly what you did - that mixture distribution is such that at idle it isn't adding much to the rotation of the engine. Mind you, I don't know that we are right, but at least we are together. On the timing, I think you are on the right track. Get your mechanical/centrifugal advance nailed down and then move on to vacuum. And that vacuum unit you have is awful! No wonder you had pinging! Hopefully the new one will be adjustable. Anyway, you might like to read Crane's instructions on ignition timing: Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Instructions tab followed by the Crane Cams Instructions tab.

That's the best approach. Then you will know and you can map the actual pressures to the gauge's readout.

Haha, ya...it was a bit of a hectic journey that cannot be easily recreated...and nor would I really want it to be, lol. Mind you, if I was wealthy and didn't have to work...maybe I'd spend all of my time doing it, but for now I'm OK. I had the old girl out again last night...Thursday night is our local weekly car show, and I must say I'm quite pleased with the old thing. It shows fairly well for what it is. The truck doesn't have a patina per se, but the 30 year old repaint really shows its age...lots of chips and scratches, and then of course areas where I've touched it up. However, I like it...it kinda makes it look like a survivor truck, rather than one that's been all fixed up. You can see a few different shades of paint on it depending on what angle you're looking at.. Ahh well, they can't all be show trucks, and this one wasn't getting a $10k paint job, not while I own it. I think it looks FAR better than the mall crawler.

Perhaps I'm a little on the optimistic side, but I happen to have a lot of faith in the factory gauges if/when everything is working properly. I've changed the ICVR with a known good one, and nothing changed in my readings, so I'll assume it's OK for the time being (and yes I understand that they may vary a bit). My temperature in the '80 gauge seems to be pretty accurate, same as in my '84. I have 195* thermostats in both trucks, and when they're up to full operating temp the gauge needles are straight up in the middle, in both trucks. I've checked the engines with an IR gun as well, so they seem to be reading well. I know they have quite a range, but it seems like Ford intended for 195 degrees to be dead center in the gauge? The oil pressure in my '84 is known as they checked it on the dyno when I had the engine built. It runs past the middle when cold, and almost exactly in the middle when hot, which...if I remember correctly was 50psi or a little higher. The 300 in the '80 on the other hand, I have no idea...BUT, if it's within the normal range on the gauge, and it's not knocking...lol, I'll have to assume that it is OK. Maybe I'll throw some additive in there to thicken it up... I, too, have faith in the factory gauges and have gone to great lengths to get them working correctly, including installing a true voltage regulator instead of the ICVR. Big Blue's gauge points at M when the aftermarket gauge says the pressure is 60 PSI. But, the voltage regulator is set to 5.4v so I'm not sure that it is fair to compare.

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! Glad you joined. You probably missed the email I sent you last night asking you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then introduce yourself in a new thread there. And after that you'd be free to start a thread in the main section - like you've done. The reason for asking that of you is because we keep the guidelines in the NMSH folder and want everyone to have the chance to read them as we hold all members to them. It isn't critical that you've not followed the directions as our joining process is broken and that happens with many new members. But please assure me that you have read the guidelines. And it would be helpful if you told us more about yourself as we are a community and like to get to know each other. Once you've done that I'll dive into the fuel system suggestions.