Gary Lewis

You didn't say how far it is to the store, but if it isn't far and the engine was still needing choke then everything you did up to the shot of ether may have been in the wrong direction. But the long shot of ether was enough to get it going. So here's my guess: Your carb is giving the engine a slightly lean air/fuel mix at idle, which means the engine would like a bit of choke to get started. But if the choke was set slightly lean then the fairly high ambient air temp may have it already coming off just enough to prevent the engine from starting. I think I'd pull the air cleaner on a hot day but when the engine hasn't been started, crack the throttle slightly to let the choke set, and see where it goes. If I'm right it won't close very much, in which case I'd dial in one more notch on the choke and see what happens.

Fixed it for you. Yes, it does look good. But there are no pics of the engine and since it didn't originally come with a turbo I'd want to know what they did to add it. A turbo'd IDI would be a good engine to have, if done well. They can get amazing MPG, for these trucks, and have a lot of power. But if not done well they can be a major source of problems.

Actually, your system is slightly more complex than the one shown on the page referenced. You can see the inferred mileage system in the lower left of the schematic below:

It is actually an "inferred" mileage system, and you can read about it at Documentation/Emissions/Inferred Mileage System. If the writeup is accurate then w/o that the ECA (computer) is going to think it is in a brand new vehicle and will probably give the engine a richer air/fuel ratio to account for an assumed tight engine. So when you get the truck going well and it seems like it is still running a bit rich, that might be the culprit. And it would seem that just placing power on the T/LG wire would solve the problem, but I don't know that for sure.

No way I'm paying someone that thinks that's correct for an '85 or '6 that kind of pocket change! S/he doesn't deserve to get that much money for it.

I didn't realize that with 24 volts, and lots of current, you can stick-weld. I've done a bit of stick welding, but that was decades ago, before I got the MIG. Once I got the MIG a friend borrowed the stick welder and when I moved I told him to keep it. I can see that having welding abilities might be pretty handy when in the back of beyond. And if I ever get to go there, wherever that is, I'll consider adding welding capabilities. But for Ouray, I think I'll just pull the broken vehicles out and then take the driver to town to get parts.

Yep, the clamp is not going to open up. Hopefully I can find the clamp that let go today and see if it is intact, meaning if the screw had pulled out. I'd torqued the screws down pretty good and they are tiny - the head is 7mm. So the new clamps will be far, far stronger. And I sure hope they'll hold. But both times it has been the connection to the outlet of the that let go, and that connection should be pretty cool. So I don't think heat has been the issue - yet. But maybe later.

That's a cool story! And a good looking truck. But I don't think you stole it. I've purchased several non-running trucks from $200 to $600. And I wouldn't pay over the $600 unless it was a very special truck, like an XLS with all the bits that go with it. As for the tailgate, that doesn't look like a special one.

I think it would be very hard to get that braided hose to fit. Wise move to go with rubber. Good luck on the truck.

Are you suggesting those Jeeps are going to need to be put back together?

Yes, the shift boot/carpet combo looks great. Well done! Can't wait for you to get it fired up.

If you can attach the heat sink to the fender that's what I'd recommend. The cooler you can keep a semiconductor the longer it'll live. On the bearings, it is good they caught them now.

Well, is one step forward and one backward progress? Got the safety valve off, cleaned up, and reinstalled today and it no longer leaks. So I left the system sitting at 200 psi and worked on something else, and after ~15 minutes a hose blew off again. Obviously Jim was right, I need the Oetiker clamps. I've ordered the set Jim recommended before: VIGRUE 115Pcs 304 Stainless Steel Single Ear Hose Clamps. And they are the single-ear style. After thinking about it I realized that some of the places I'm going to clamp will be difficult to get to for one ear, but almost impossible for two. So, thanks to Jim for both the recommendation of the Oetiker style clamps as well as the single-ear style.

Oops, I forgot that.

Yep, and I'm happy to test Chris' units - if he brings them. Maybe to the show in Sept?

Yes, that is possible. From lots of air, and a ratchet strap to aid in resealing a bead, to 'most any tool you'll need, with 110v AC in between he's a rolling workshop. When he goes overlanding I'll add the Ridgid battery-powered tools like the drill, impact, saw, and maybe even the right-angle grinder. And the battery charger for the two 4AH batteries I have. Just fired up the charger on the inverter and it is working perfectly charging one of those batteries, so we'll have lots of "power". The charger will fit behind the seat in the storage unit and plug into the inverter so we'll always have a hot battery.

Good ideas! I already had the ratchet straps in, but not on the list. They are now. I always take bailing wire when I take the binders, but they are for tying down loads on the trailer so won't be taking them and didn't have the bailing wire in. But it is on the list now. Electrical tape is on the list. A big hammer wasn't on the list but is now. As for the yoga mat, I have a roll of marine carpet I always take for the same purpose. It wasn't on the list but is now. Thanks! As for the Jeeps, that's why I have the 12K winch and all the recovery gear, inc the wheel chocks. Figured I could get two Jeeps at a time with that winch.

Yep. That's why the modules are failing. The resistance of the TFI coil is just too low and, therefore, the current the module has to sink is too high. It is simply a question of when the module will fail rather than if.

Nice, save for the wheels & tires. They make it a mall crawler rather than an offroad beast. But then I think that's what it was built for.

Well, you are right. That page won't load. And I can't find that document so I'll have to scan it in again. But I may not get it done tomorrow, so do you know what transmission you have? Can you use the specific section for that transmission?

Right. This article in The Carburetor Shop might help. But the bottom line is that 1 & 2 bbl carbs are rated at 3" of vacuum anf 4 bbl carbs are rated at 1.5" of vacuum. So to convert a 2 bbl's rating to compare to a 4 bbl you multiply the 2 bbl rating by .707.

For what it's worth, much of the trails start below tree line, so you are in trees a lot (you get above tree line and are out of them a lot too). But I'd still agree that a saw isn't needed. The trails get so much traffic that any trees across them will get taken care of pretty quick (I've never seen a tree blocking a trail around Ouray, but it it very common in the Black Hills). As to your tool box list, it's way more complete than what I end up taking, so I don't know that I can help. Well, now that I think about it, you are correct. Last Dollar Road wasn't above the tree line, for sure. In fact we went through stands of glorious aspen many times. And when we left Ophir we were in trees for quite a while. But there is a lot of traffic and I doubt a tree would stay there long. However, if I have the room I'll take the saw. As for the tool box, the "hand tool box" and most of what I'm showing in it went with us to Lake Powell. And it saved our bacon. One day we lost both the idle air controller and the shift linkage on the boat - and we were 30 miles up the lake. The next day my brother and I tackled both problems with what we had, and we got the boat serviceable for the rest of the trip. So I'm a fan of having as much as I can think of on a trip like this. I'm meeting him in early July for a family get-together and will give him a copy of the list. But I need to include his sons as they do a lot of off-roading with RZR's and surely have experience with what tools they've needed.

Yes, I think a leak-down test and verifying that the timing "system" is in tact would be in order. And by timing "system" I mean that the cam is properly timed, that the distributor gear is in tact, and that the ignition timing is correct.

By golly, you were right! I think I've fixed it though. But I have no idea where those pics came from. I've never seen them before. Anyway, they should be gone. Thanks, Jim!

Those are clearly Grade 5 bolts given the markings on them. And the spec's I've found say that a G5 is typically torqued to 50 lb-ft. So if the factory manual says torque them to 40 - 50 then they are not torqued to yield. They should be reusable.